bad shifting?

If it is in the upper gears, I'd tend to think that it is a lazy shift. On the larger bore bikes, the problem presents itself in second and usually ends up being worn shift dogs and a tranny replacement is in order. Rarely have I heard of issues in the upper gears.

I'd keep and eye on it and see if it is doing it in one specific gear. If it is random as you suggest, give a more firm shift.

 

heya

Just a thought check out <!-- w --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.dansmc.com">www.dansmc.com</a><!-- w --> as i have found some good info on how a bike tranny works. May give you some ideas. By the way, I originally found the site thanks to this one!

Good on you guys

 

I've found that running a good synthetic oil helps gears shift smoother. Bent selector forks can make for an unreliable shift too, also there are small springs in the gear selection mechanism. A friend of mine had one of these come off on his Yamaha R1, and produced difficult shifts. If the dogs are worn, that usually manifests in jumping out of gear, like my mates RF900.

 

IMHO, i can't justify using fully synthetic oils as they are designed to last to 6000-8000 km's in little high revving bikes like ours. When i religiously do oil changed at 3000-3500km's i see no point in throwing money down the drain.

Using semi-synth oil i have only once encountered any problems with my gearbox, and that was when i'd just bought a new set of boots and wasnt shifting smoothly and fully engaging the selector. (boots were quite stiff).

I'll be able to tell as soon as my oil level drops even the slightest amount as the shifts are no longer smooth, they develop a slight notchy of resistance. No problem, check the oil... top it up with about 150ml and it's perfect again.

 

Not using fully synthetic is up to you, it is your bike, mine has done over 46000 km, and still doesn't use any oil in between changes. Besides, a synthetic is better at copeing with extreme use, like town work and winter riding in the UK.

The oil is the one single most important engine part that many people just seem to overlook, so they put in any old rubbish and then wonder why their engine spits it out the exhaust. <!-- s --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_smile.gif" alt="" title="Smile" /><!-- s -->

 

i still dont have my 3ln fzr back so i cant tel u exactly what rpm it is in 6th, but i know i worked it out from my speedo/tacho readings that if you managed to redline the fzr in 6th that you'd be touching 200kph ... that is of course IF you can redline it in 6th ... start lookin for a big hill!!

 

My old 2kr revved at 10 000 at 100. It revved at about 14500 for 150.

 

Yeah I think mine was about 9,500. U'd need a very long straight to get it around the 180 mark . let alone 200.

 

My 2KR approx 7000rpm at 80Kph in 6th, and 8000rpm in 5th.

DAVE

 

not sure what revs i'm on at 80kph in 6th, but i know at 100kph its around the 9000 mark. With this in mind and what everyone else has said it sounds like yours is revving a bit higher than normal Patske.
Most obvious reason for this that i can think of is that you've got non standard sprocket(s) on the bike. Either less teeth than normal on the front, or more than normal on the back, or both. Sprockets have the number of teeth printed somewhere on them - standard for fzr i think is 55 back, 17 front.

 

can i . ..

can i know how much engine oil does your FZR250 have?? i think i'm changing oil myself. . . thanx bros. <!-- s:shock: --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_eek.gif" alt=":shock:" title="Shocked" /><!-- s:shock: --> <!-- s:roll: --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_roll.gif" alt=":roll:" title="Rolling LoL" /><!-- s:roll: --> <!-- s:alcoholic: --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_all_coholic.gif" alt=":alcoholic:" title="Alcoholic" /><!-- s:alcoholic: --> <!-- s --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_offtopic.gif" alt="" title="Off Topic" /><!-- s --> <!-- s --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_offtopic.gif" alt="" title="Off Topic" /><!-- s --> <!-- s:sniper: --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_snipersmilie.gif" alt=":sniper:" title="Sniper" /><!-- s:sniper: --> <!-- s:cop --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_cop.gif" alt=":cop" title="Cop" /><!-- s:cop -->

 

2.5L if changing the filter, a bit less if not.

DAVE

 

My best advice is not to go by the stupid see through level on the side of the oil bottle, and put 2 litres in the bike then get down on your hands and knees and check the level through the sight (little glass window on the sump). Then add oil about 50-100ml at a time and recheck the level until it's perfect.

 

making sure the bike is upright <!-- s:lol: --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_lol.gif" alt=":lol:" title="Laughing" /><!-- s:lol: -->

 

I thought that was a given... but you sound like your speaking from experience.

 

I've seen a few people fill oil while it was on the sidestand, so it is a fair comment!

 

Thank you! and no i haven't done it <!-- s:lol: --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_lol.gif" alt=":lol:" title="Laughing" /><!-- s:lol: -->

 

oil??

what or how thick the oil must be for engine?? is it alright to fill with sae 20/50 oil? is it to thin or just fine? thanx bros!
<!-- s --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_redface.gif" alt="" title="Embarassed" /><!-- s --> <!-- s:cry: --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_cry.gif" alt=":cry:" title="Crying or Very sad" /><!-- s:cry: -->