Not starting?compression?carby

Discussion in 'FZR250.com - Archives' started by dontgvup, Jun 26, 2005.

  1. dontgvup

    dontgvup New Member

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    Have bought a 1990 FZR250RR , was told that it was low on compression. It started and idled with a squirt of quickstart. Spark seems Ok
    I took the head off and saw what looked like rust stains in the 2 and 3 barrels . Replaced the rings, still wont start. Compression was very low, 60 psi.
    Took off head again and checked for flatness, looks perfect.
    Lapped in valves, replaced head gasket.
    Compression is better, but still wont start, Does anyone know what the compression should be ? Replaced plugs no go.
    Also found missing hoses on the carbies?
    2 between the middle of the carbies and 2 between the top, not sure if they should be connected to anything.
    Im seriously thinking the barrels have been corroded at some time and honed out to oversize, and low compression is now the main problem.
    The bike wont even fire . Any ideas out there ?
     
  2. raaqi

    raaqi New Member

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    Well considering you're not even sure about the carbies I think you need to talk to a professional mechanic. Might be something very simple you have overlooked or are unaware of.
     
  3. kev

    kev New Member

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    i would try taking the airbox off and just givin it some aerostart down the carbies, u never know she could start and if it does then could be a fuel problem.
     
  4. Starter

    Starter New Member

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    General rule of thumb 110psi min for any revving jap bike. 120-140psi would be a healthy engine 15 years old. If your worried about lack of compression from the rings a tablespoon of oil in each cylinder your testing and see what the increase is. Make sure you have a fresh battery or use your car as a jump start cause you'll get false readings if your not turning the engine over a max starter motor speed.

    Also these figures are only of useful once you've had the valves adjusted and checked the camshaft timings.

    You need to systematically eliminate causes. OK you've done spark. OK you've done compression (pending thte results) - a little still means the cylinders are sucking something. Hows the air filter looking? The engine only needs air, fuel, and spark. Sounds like the bike has been sitting so check out the condition of the carbs. Draining the fuel bowls is the quickest way to establish a fuel supply to the corbs (not the engine though). Drain and fill multiple time to be sure. Now look inside the carbs. A good backyard way to get blockages out (without dismantling the carbs) is to remove the airbox, cover the carb intake with your hand and crank with the starter. Repeat for all 4 carbs. Get the plug out and check for moisture. Trial and error my friend.
     
  5. dontgvup

    dontgvup New Member

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    Thanks for the response. I have since rechecked the compression adding some oil to each cylinder, and get 150 psi. This is jumping from a car battery and getting good rpm.
    On advice I have also re checked the timing of the flywheel and camshaft, which is correct.
    Someone mentioned valve adjustment? how is this done?
    I have stripped and cleaned out the carbs and jets and set the air/fuel screws to required 3 turns. Still unsure about the 4 hose connections between the carbs. Unsure if overflow and breathers?
    Bike is still not starting.
     
  6. adjudrey

    adjudrey New Member

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    hose??

    what hoses?? where is it connected??
     
  7. Starter

    Starter New Member

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    4 hoses are just fuel overflow.

    You may have the throttle plates completely shut therefore not much in the way of fuel/air getting in the chamber. Take the airbox off. Take a look at the throttle valves and see if they are shut or slightly open. Place the palm of your hand securely over the intake of one of the carbs and crank it. Repeat with them all. You should get plenty of fuel on you hand after a couple of seconds and feel the suction. If not twist the throttle partially/fully and try again. If you still don't get suction or fuel its about time to look at valve adjustment and CAMSHAFT timing (a little more involved and harder to explain over the internet). If you do get suction follow this to trim the idle and throttle valves.
     
  8. Starter

    Starter New Member

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    4 hoses are just fuel overflow.

    You may have the throttle plates completely shut therefore not much in the way of fuel/air getting in the chamber. Take the airbox off. Take a look at the throttle valves and see if they are shut or slightly open. Place the palm of your hand securely over the intake of one of the carbs and crank it. Repeat with them all. You should get plenty of fuel on you hand after a couple of seconds and feel the suction. If not twist the throttle partially/fully and try again. If you still don't get suction or fuel its about time to look at valve adjustment and CAMSHAFT timing (a little more involved and harder to explain over the internet). If you do get suction follow this to trim the idle and throttle valves.
     
  9. adjudrey

    adjudrey New Member

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    is it?

    is it normal that my bike for about below 3K on rpm moves very slow, it sounds like having helium gas on you throat!! but when it reaches higher that 3K, she moves very prettty. is my bike having problems or is it normal?? thanx, BROS!
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  10. Boz

    Boz New Member

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    for a bike that revs as high as teh fzr250 you will need to have it higher than 3000 to move well. When I had my fzr250 I usually started off around 5000-6000 revs, and most people here will probably tell you they start around 5000 revs as well... A coordinated effort on part of a partially engaged the clutch and throttle.
     
  11. koma

    koma New Member

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    Re: is it?

    Below 3k for an FZR is idle. <!-- s:cool: --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_cool.gif" alt=":cool:" title="Cool" /><!-- s:cool: -->
    But seriously... don't expect to use anything below 4k, especially below 3k for anything other than coasting along at minimal speeds coming to a stop. If you crank on the throttle that low in the rev range you'll get absolutely nothing! Other than perhaps an irritated carby setup and a bike wondering why your too lazy to downshift. <!-- s:rofl: --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_razz.gif" alt=":rofl:" title="Rofl" /><!-- s:rofl: -->
     
  12. adjudrey

    adjudrey New Member

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    may i . .

    hey guys, may i ask . . on what speed in the speedometer turns the red light on in the tacho?? i got defective cables, i think it is already for about 90-100 KPH but the speedo is giving me only 70KPH. i'm just thinkin what speed turns the red light on the tacho switch "ON" normally. THANX again bro's.


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  13. koma

    koma New Member

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    AFAIK it's 80km/h that it's meant to come on.
    But without a speedo i'm not sure if it'd come on at all.

    Although owning a 3LN means i don't actually have a speed light so i wouldnt know. <!-- s:cool: --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_cool.gif" alt=":cool:" title="Cool" /><!-- s:cool: -->
     
  14. Boz

    Boz New Member

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    Correct - supposed to come on when the speedo hits 80 k/hr (not when the bike is doing 80).
     
  15. dontgvup

    dontgvup New Member

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    I have eventually got the bike started. Had to clean up the valves and replace the barrel with a second hand unit. Compression now is 115,130,130,135psi. It takes 3-5 pumps to get ther though.

    Problem now is, it wont start from cold without a squirt of quick start. Once it is hot , it starts every time.
    Plugs are grey (good?) maybe it is too lean?
    I have stripped it down again, to check out carbs and maybe lap in valves to get compression up again.
    Any suggestions
     
  16. aussie3ln3

    aussie3ln3 New Member

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    where can i find such info <!-- s:lol: --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_lol.gif" alt=":lol:" title="Laughing" /><!-- s:lol: -->
     

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