Finally got my bike back together after 9 months of repainting. Replaced the old C9E with CR8E. I used to have a problem where a little fuel was slowly leaking out of the carbs, it looked it came from the bottom screw on the float bowl, and was more pronounced when the bike was on it's stand. Thats is now fixed via new screws (replaced philips head with socket head and a bit of gasket glue on the thread), carb bowl o-rings and float bowl o-rings. No more leaking fuel. When I refitted the exup cable, I believe it went top cable in servo to top cable in exhaust valve. Took it for a test ride, bike started first time, better than ever. Went well through the low rev range, gave the usual power kick form around 5-6000rpm. Got to 11-12000rpm, where the second power kick usually came in, but it just ran to 18000rpm, pretty smooth, with a few dead spots upto 18000, but definately has lost its kick. I then thought maybe exup cable the wrong way. So I changed the cables around at the valve. So top servo went to botoom valve visa versa. Took it for another test ride, the exhaust note sounded alot more throaty, lost the low down rev performance, but when it got to 6000rpm it gave a real kick in the pants but I could not get it past 14000rpm. Parked it the garage for the night bfore working on it today. I think the exup cable maybe the wrong way now but I was originally right. The only quick conclusions I could come up with were 1. that the float heights may need re-adjusting 2. carb balance in-order maybe due to new grade of spark and that the carbs aren't leaking anymore. 3. A few air holes drilled into the top of the air box to increase air flow. Suggestions?
You were originally correct about the exup cables, top-top, bottom-bottom. I'd definitely be looking at checking float heights first. Pretty simple task and there's a guide here if your not sure: <!-- l --><a class="postlink-local" href="http://www.fzr250.com/viewtopic.php?t=1487">viewtopic.php?t=1487</a><!-- l --> When you had the boles off did you give the internals of the carbs a clean or notice any gunk in the bottom of the bowl. If you haven't done so already I would given the carbs a good clean out with compressed air and check all the jets are clear. If your bikes been off the road for a few months & you left fuel in the carbs it can dry up leave **** behind which can cause problems. If you pulled the carbs off the bike make sure you seated them properly back in the rubber boots and there are no air leaks. I don't think changing your plugs & fixing a small leak from the carbie bowl is really going to affect your balance but if it hasn't been done in a long time it still may be beneficial As for drilling holes in the air box I really don't think that's necessary & would leave it alone. Just make sure the Air filter is nice & clean.
Carbs are clean. Gave tham a good cleaning just before we took it apart and again just before we put them back on. No holes in airfilter box, after a bit of thought. Everything is seated properly, especially that bitch of an airbox. Balanced the carbs this morning, they were a little out not much. Since the sun is shining, we are just going to concentreate on mainly getting the final paint done for the fairings and tank. Will try to do float bowl heights today. Correct about the plugs.
Woh! Damn that's a nice job. I can see you've put allot of time into that. Puts my old thing to shame. How'd you polish the frame up so nicely?
Striped back the paint of the frame and swingarm. Used autosol with a buffing wheel attached to a power drill. Applied the autosol over the area that needed to be polished and then buffed with the wheel until nice and shiney.
ehehe. your photo makes it look like a single cyl. I can admit I'm quite impressed with what you've done there. I'm jealous of you people with your 'time' and 'money' and more importantly 'alternative vehicles' to throw around.
Year that looks good when I get my next bike ill do that to the 250 I to would like an alternative vehicle <!-- s:lol: --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_lol.gif" alt=":lol:" title="Laughing" /><!-- s:lol: -->
Hey there good lookin! <!-- s:wink: --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_wink.gif" alt=":wink:" title="Wink" /><!-- s:wink: --> <!-- s:lol: --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_lol.gif" alt=":lol:" title="Laughing" /><!-- s:lol: -->
Everything got pulled apart and painted. Even most of the bolts got replaced or painted. I changed all the philips head bolts to allen key head bolts.
nice paint job! How does the engine heat affect the paint on the altenrator (magneto?) cover? I'm looking at painting the same parts on mine black, and was tossing up between painting it myself or getting it powder coated (if heat will be an issue?) Are your rims powder coated or painted? it looks schmick!
Oh wow I didn't look at the rims. They look awesome! I seriously can't get over how good that bike looks. Only letdown is the 250's rear end. Nonetheless:
Very nice. +1. I hope to replicate that sort of polished rims on my bike. Must have taken a fair few weekends out in the shed. Oh and Casso, the stock alternator (stator) cover is painted. It isn’t anything special either, mine is starting to flake off.
All the paint was Australian Standard Acrylic, except exhaust which was heat proof paint in a spray can. The rims are the same paint. I stripped all the paint on the rims back with Sparko Professional strength paint stripper from Bunnings (In a yellow tin). Worked a heap better than Kwik Strip and polly brands, and cheaper. Hopefully by wednesday this week we will have cut and polished the paint work. I will write up what and how much stuff I used (If I can remember). By the way, took the bike out for a good run, and after a while it seemed to fix itself and the girl is back btter than ever.
