1. This site uses cookies. By continuing to use this site, you are agreeing to our use of cookies. Learn More.

noob & new fizzer - engine trouble - couple of questions

Discussion in 'FZR250.com - Archives' started by Dan, Apr 11, 2006.

  1. Dan

    Dan New Member

    Messages:
    0
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    0
    Joined:
    Apr 9, 2006
    Gender:
    Male
    My Bike:
    2009 Megelli 250r
    hey guys,

    i just bought a 1990 fzr (3ln)(3?) its my first bike and im still learning to ride, but ive been having some trouble with the engine. It runs great when the bike is cold, goes up to 20k no problems. Once the bike is warmed up and you stop for example at an intersection and then attempt to go anywhere the bike chokes, doesnt die just plugs along. You have to rev it up to 8 -10 and lightly let out the clutch before it will do much, it revs fine just has no power, feels like its running on one cylinder. My uncle has taken the bike for a ride and has had the same problem so i dont think its just noob reving. ive noticed this problem has occured before, something to do with a rich bike and the exup system. i have drained the fuel tank (lovely brown globs came out) so then replaced the fuel filter and spark plugs. the plugs were quite black and the guy in the bike shop commented the bike was running rich as buggery. another thing to note is that the bike has an aftermarket exhaust with a huge outlet for a bike of this size, could this not be causing enough back pressure and when the bike heats up making it run rich and choke?
    when i start the bike it doesnt need any choke, so sounds rich to me...

    This being the case how can i check the tuning of the bike? i know its supposed to be 3 turns out, but without knowing which screw to turn i decided not to touch it? Can anyone please describe the process of doing this? and also how to clean the float bowls? would adding a small pipe down the exhaust with a flange at the end give me enough back pressure in the exhaust?

    short history of the bike, it has basically sat around doing nothing for i dont know how long, i bought it off someone who didnt actually ride it, and knew next to nothing about bikes, good price, but she needed a clean...

    i would like to do an oil change on the bike, what is the best oil to put in and how much does she take?

    the bike has a 140/70 (battlax) tyre on the rear, which needs changing soon (battlax) is this a good tyre? i know the recommended in 130/70 is it best to stick with this? how will the 140 affect her?

    um also the bike doesnt have a fuel pump, should i get one?

    i think thats it, thanks heaps this forum is great!

    if i may also say so i think the fzr is an awesome bike, not too many of em out there and u can beat those toy boy racers! woo
     
  2. Ciaran

    Ciaran New Member

    Messages:
    0
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    0
    Joined:
    Nov 5, 2004
    Welcome to the forum.

    Brown in petrol tank means brown in carbs = bad. Their was a guide around here somewhere for cleaning out the float bowls, try searching the forum for 'rain in spain' sounds crazy but give it a go. This will not be helping at all if your bike is running rich. The screw that is 3 turns out is the idle mixture screw, it only affects the mixture on the idle circuit, not when you are actually riding the bike.

    How much fuel do you get before you hit reserve? If you don’t know, next time you go to the petrol station and partially fill the tank, post up the amount and the k's traveled. This will give us an indication on how bad the problem is.

    Oil is 2.2L with a filter change and 2 without, but just change the filter. I like to change my oil every 3k km and use shell VSX4 15w50. Full synthetic prob isn’t a must and I am sure plenty of people run their bikes on semi synthetic.

    If your exup valve is running like it is supposed to it should be providing most of the back pressure you need for low revs. Sometimes the installers of after market pipes will tamper with the exup valve, my guess to get a better sound at idle and low down.

    The battleaxe is a great tyre in my mind. If I can’t afford some softer tyres for my next set I will be falling back on the good old bt45. I have a set of arrowmax on now and they where fine as long as the weather was warm but lately we have been descending into winter and it is a real chore to have to baby them until they warm up enough. If you do a search you will find a few threads on tyre profiles, I like to stick with the 130/70 though.

    You don’t need a fuel pump but if you like running to reserve it is probably a good idea.
     
  3. ACE

    ACE Active Member

    Messages:
    0
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    160
    Joined:
    Sep 4, 2005
    sonds like an exup prob to me do you no were it is
     
  4. TurBIce

    TurBIce New Member

    Messages:
    0
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    0
    Joined:
    Oct 25, 2005
    i have the EXACT problem with mine.
    got my carbs cleaned.
    oil change spark chabge. filter change. and now its runnign beautiful.
     
  5. Dan

    Dan New Member

    Messages:
    0
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    0
    Joined:
    Apr 9, 2006
    Gender:
    Male
    My Bike:
    2009 Megelli 250r
    thanks guys

    when i cleaned the tank out i had a good look inside and all was clean, when i last filled the bike it was a way below reserve, and it cost 13 dollars something, with the price of fuel being about 1.30 i guess that means about 10 litres

    the bike has done an unguaranteed 30 000 ks

    also the problem gets worse on an incline?

    in terms of the exup system, i know where it is, and have checked the servo, which does its reset so i assume its working, would it be worth taking the lower exup system off and cleaning it? checking its position? i do admit the bike sounds better than i would expect for a 250 could have been tampered with...

    i remember seeing the rain in spain post, so i will check that out and clean up the carbs and float bowls

    does anyone have any tips for repainting coroded aluminium?
     
  6. Dan

    Dan New Member

    Messages:
    0
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    0
    Joined:
    Apr 9, 2006
    Gender:
    Male
    My Bike:
    2009 Megelli 250r
    just looked at the rain in spain post and the pics are gone! <!-- s:( --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_sad.gif" alt=":(" title="Sad" /><!-- s:( -->
    did anyone save them or know of other posts that have them? rain in spain 2 still has pics?
     
  7. Dan

    Dan New Member

    Messages:
    0
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    0
    Joined:
    Apr 9, 2006
    Gender:
    Male
    My Bike:
    2009 Megelli 250r
    ok ive taken the carbies off and drained the float bowls, a small amount of grit was left at the bottom of the jar... i then attempted to take the covers off the float bowls, and only managed to get one off!! ergh, ive allmost rounded the head on one of the screws and another one is starting to give... am i doing something wrong? (yes im using the correct screwdriver) someone mentioned something about heating up the aluminium cause it heats faster and then they will come off easy? going to get a thin cutting blade and see if i can put a notch in the top and remove with a flat screwdriver.

    the bowls looked ok, no major grit, there was a bit tho, and upon close inspection you could see more in the corners, and in obscure places, does this affeect it? i will also grab some carby cleaner.

    also tried to take the exup system off, and could get every screw out except that last one! i could find a hex wrench to fit! if anyone happens to know the sisze of it that would be great and i can go pick one up or something...

    thanks guys
     
  8. Ciaran

    Ciaran New Member

    Messages:
    0
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    0
    Joined:
    Nov 5, 2004
    Get an impact driver to undo the float bowl screws. If you don’t want to buy one (they come in real handy) you can try giving the screw heads a wallop with a punch and hammer then give it another go. Best to take off the plastic vacuum chamber lids, springs, slide and diaphragm and the needle so you don’t break anything.

    You should be able to tell if it is aligned by the little forks on the lower pulley, from memory they should line up with a mark on the metal behind.
     
  9. Ciaran

    Ciaran New Member

    Messages:
    0
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    0
    Joined:
    Nov 5, 2004
    I am fairly sure your bike didn’t do 30 000km to 10L of fuel lol. Next time you fill up set the trip meter back to 000 and fill it right up. The next time you go to fill it up after that you will be able to work out your fuel economy from the trip meter reading and the amount of fuel you used.
     
  10. Dan

    Dan New Member

    Messages:
    0
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    0
    Joined:
    Apr 9, 2006
    Gender:
    Male
    My Bike:
    2009 Megelli 250r
    haha ok i get what your asking now :p last time i filled the tank it had just gone to reserve, so when its back to just on reserve i will let u know ks (reset the odo as per habit)

    managed to get the exup off, looks clean (well black but spins ok) and evidence of it running to full extents.

    bought 8 new screws for the carby (hex heads) so i will give the hammer drill a go and see if that helps...
     
  11. FZR Dude

    FZR Dude New Member

    Messages:
    0
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    0
    Joined:
    Mar 24, 2004
    Try Mole grips/Vice grips (locking pliers) on the screws to get them off. Good choice to switch to hex head.
     
  12. Dan

    Dan New Member

    Messages:
    0
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    0
    Joined:
    Apr 9, 2006
    Gender:
    Male
    My Bike:
    2009 Megelli 250r
    ok, managed to find an old impact driver and got them off! (only had a flat head so used a hacksaw to notch the tops, worked a treat) wow, the carbies were terrible! particularly under the diaphram, you can tell the bike had been sitting for some time, as there was a line of scum where the levels of liquid were...

    also took the housing off which the needle butts up against? there was one odd screw (not brass, home made) and they had done a shocking job! and had tried to realign with washers and that, and i dont think would have come close... i couldnt find anything brass myself (i live in a rural area) but the local mower come motorcyle enthusiast managed to rustle something up for me (steel) and ive drilled it out myself with a drill press looks quite good and is very close to the original... (incedentally it was going to cost $40! to get one shipped from sydney, catcha!)

    im going to give the carbies a good clean with carby cleaner, and reasemble then see how it goes... can anyone help me with tuning? ive allways wanted to tune the bike myself is this possible?

    thanks guys
     
  13. Ciaran

    Ciaran New Member

    Messages:
    0
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    0
    Joined:
    Nov 5, 2004
    I can talk you through balancing and I think their is a thread about resetting float heights around here also. As for messing with jet sizes and needle positions probably haven’t had enough experience to start giving advice for that one. I would just stay stock for jet sizes.
     
  14. Dan

    Dan New Member

    Messages:
    0
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    0
    Joined:
    Apr 9, 2006
    Gender:
    Male
    My Bike:
    2009 Megelli 250r
    that would be great, i may even have a friend with one of those gas pressure thingos?
     
  15. Ciaran

    Ciaran New Member

    Messages:
    0
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    0
    Joined:
    Nov 5, 2004
    I have got to do some work on the bike tomorrow so.... I will do a write up on how to balance the carbs. I think the site has been in need of some step by step carb walkthroughs considering every third question in the workshop thread is carb related.
    That would be a vacuum gauge or manometer if you want to be fancy.
     
  16. Dan

    Dan New Member

    Messages:
    0
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    0
    Joined:
    Apr 9, 2006
    Gender:
    Male
    My Bike:
    2009 Megelli 250r
    ok carbs and clean as a whistle (exup is clean too) and shes all back together...
    i think it now has highlighted the problem, she doesnt sound nice at all, if u open the throttle right up it chokes at about 4 and lags, blows smoke and revs up, sounds rich to me! smells rich, feels rich. hope u guys agree :p
    so i think its tune time!
     
  17. FZR Dude

    FZR Dude New Member

    Messages:
    0
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    0
    Joined:
    Mar 24, 2004
    Okay, go back into the carbs and set the float heights to 14 mm and then re-sync. Also make sure that you mixture screw is about 3 turns out from lightly seated.
     
  18. Dan

    Dan New Member

    Messages:
    0
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    0
    Joined:
    Apr 9, 2006
    Gender:
    Male
    My Bike:
    2009 Megelli 250r
    ok, i have no idea how to set either of these! the idle screw is set right (the big one in the middle) are you talking about fuel mixture screws? which ones are these?
    what do i change to set the float heights to 14 mm?
    and what do you mean by resync?
    sorry to be so daft!
     
  19. Dan

    Dan New Member

    Messages:
    0
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    0
    Joined:
    Apr 9, 2006
    Gender:
    Male
    My Bike:
    2009 Megelli 250r
    found the 'how to' section of the page :p couple of questions about the carbs tho, the "carbs???" post details the carb setting, ie main jets 100 etc etc what does this mean? is this a measurement, or what?

    found how to check float levels... couldnt find how to alter them...
     
  20. Ciaran

    Ciaran New Member

    Messages:
    0
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    0
    Joined:
    Nov 5, 2004
    When you have the float bowl off you will see the plastic float. It has a little metal tang that the float needle is hooked over. Bending the tang will alter the point at which the needle seals to the seat and stops fuel entering the float bowl and change the fuel level / float height inside the bowl.

    Synchronization is that same as balancing. Very basically the four carburetors each need to deliver the same amount of air fuel mixture to their respective cylinders to achieve optimal engine performance. Note that this is not the same as having all the carburetor butterflies opening at the same time.

    The number on the jet refers to its size, it should be stamped on the jet. The idea behind a jet is to make a hole just the right size so only the right amount of fuel can pass through it to get mixed with the air to get the right air fuel mixture. As you can probably understand when the engine is running faster it is going to need more fuel so their needs to be a few different sized jets to get the job done right. A few things govern what jet is being used at any time but mainly it is throttle position.

    You can read up more about carburetors at this site we have only skimmed the surface.
     

Share This Page