Sprocket and Chain Replacement I thought I would post how my sprocket and chain change went on the weekend. Firstly what was on the bike. 1989 FZR250 2kr with the EXUP. Sprockets: 17/55 Chain: 428 Fuel Economy: 195km before reserve. (Reserve hits at about 9.2Litres for me) The new setup, Sprockets: 15/55 (Part No. 31-20O-15D $12.95/ Part No. 32-1HX-55 $49.95) Chain: RK 428, 136 link which I had to remove 3 links. Part No. 12-48W-136 $139.95 (I can't see how the standard would be 130 link as I got a 136 link and had a reduced front sprocket and only cut of 3 links) How she goes: She now has a bit more torque. It isn't enough to be doing wheel stands without a bit of physical effort. 6th gear is actually usable on the freeway. At 100km/h the revs have increased from 9100rpm to 10100rpm. Fuel Consumption: 172km before reserve. (Reserve hits at about 9.2Litres for me) First Post Before Edit Hey guys, Can anyone tell me what chain I need to get for a FZR 2kr where I am going to replace the sprockets with non standard sizes. I am going to fit 15/55 sprockets. Will this affect the chain I need to get? It would change the length from standard. Help would be great thanks.
when i changed mine i got a (120 link?) RK O ring chain and took arround 3 inches out but that was a 3LN so not sure. jus get a chain that you know is too long and trim it down
standard 2kr chain is a 428VM with 130 links. looks like u want to go down 2 teeth on the front sprocket - may only need 129 links??
r u counting the inside plates as links? it looks like 3 links but its actually 6 i reckon you removed <!-- s:wink: --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_wink.gif" alt=":wink:" title="Wink" /><!-- s:wink: -->
It could be. I only counted the outside plates as one link. I guess that would be right then if the inside is counted as a seperate link.
The only negative aspect that i can think of with swapping to the 15/55 would be on some large intersections i used have to have change gears twice to get to the other side! Other than that, far more fun and usable around town... and easily outrun other 250's without much effort. Top speed did drop to ~160km/h.
Hey Koma, how did you find the fuel consumption whith the smaller sprocket? You'd think the change would be directly relitave but perhaps not?
When i dropped 2 teeth off the front (from 17 to 15) i wasn't really concerned about fuel economy. <!-- s:lol: --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_lol.gif" alt=":lol:" title="Laughing" /><!-- s:lol: --> I did however notice that my range did slightly increase for normal city riding, however it went severely down out in the hills. I put the increase in economy down to the fact that because the rpm was different, and therefore my throttle position was slightly different, it was using a different part of the carb needles that hadn't worn down as much. As carbs get old, they start to develop a couple of notches at specific speeds correlating to your throttle position. Therefore most bikes end up running rich at 60, 80 & 100 km/h. By changing the sprockets your altering the gearing meaning your now cruising at the equivalent of ~67, 88, & 112 km/h. Regardless, this WILL chew your chain significantly faster than a 17 tooth sprocket. If your only looking for a bit of a boost in usable power then i'd recommend going 3-5 teeth up on the rear sprocket instead. Increasing the turning diameter of the chain will reduce strain on the chain in general.
i know its off topic <!-- s --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_offtopic.gif" alt="" title="Off Topic" /><!-- s --> how does every one join their rivet links? i freaked whei saw it cuz i ride pushies and got the old man to do it whil i was at work
you need one of those chain breaker/riveter tools (looks sort of like a small clamp with special fittings to push chain pins out and rivet new links) - you can get one that does it all by using a reversable fitting - the good ones ain't cheap though around $80
fck that. You need a metal grinding bit for your drill, and a hole punch and hammer <!-- s --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_smile.gif" alt="" title="Smile" /><!-- s --> Worked a treat for me.
thats fine for breaking a chain (i do pretty much the same thing) but when it comes to joining a new rivet link (like 8_stitch asked about) you really need the tool to flare the new rivets. pretty sure you can't do that properly with a nail punch.
I find the angle grinder is good <!-- s --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_biggrin.gif" alt="" title="Very Happy" /><!-- s --> Haven't you blokes heard of the joining links that clip together (no riveting)
After having one of the clips come off while I was in 2nd and hammering the throttle (many years ago)... I'll spend the extra time and effort and use a rivit link.
the chain I bought came with both *shrugs* I just installed the clip one becuase i figured it'd make for easier removal.
The words 'drive chain' and 'easy removal' should never be used in the same sentence. As far as im concerned... my chain needs an angle grinder to get it off. <!-- s:lol: --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_lol.gif" alt=":lol:" title="Laughing" /><!-- s:lol: -->
I knew after I posted some-one would come back with a hard luck story. I personally have never had one come loose and have used a few over the years. I am lead to believe that the clip itself has to be put on with the closed end facing the direction of chain travel so that it can't be flicked off if it snags on anything and thats the way I have done mine. My off-road buggy uses 320 chain under adverse conditions with rocks and sticks flying around, but I also appreciate your concern and it certainly would not be a nice experience and has the possiblity to cause some extreme damage as well. Hopefully your chain just dropped to the road.
