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Discussion in 'FZR250.com - Archives' started by Philby, Oct 11, 2006.

  1. Philby

    Philby New Member

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    Hi guys,

    A few people I have met in the ACT have told me about this site so I thought I woud jump on and have a look.

    I own a 1991 FZR250 which I purchased a year ago when I got my L's and I love it.

    I have a few questions that I thought I might be able to get some help with.

    My front forks are really spongy, I've been told that it is a simply job to change the oil but I don't know where to start, Has anyone got any info, Tips, what not to do's that they might be able to help me with.

    Also is there any where to source spare parts from in the ACT that anyone knows about.

    Any help would be great. <!-- s:) --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_smile.gif" alt=":)" title="Smile" /><!-- s:) -->
     
  2. dave

    dave Well-Known Member

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    Hi Philby - welcome to the forum..

    The oil is not to hard to change. Someone has posted a description of how to change the 3LN fork oil previously so it should be not too hard to find. The top of the forks are slightly different to mine (2KR model) so I can't tell you how to do it..

    A simple search should find it.
     
  3. Philby

    Philby New Member

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    Thanks Dave,

    Pretty much found everything I need.

    Cheers.
     
  4. koma

    koma New Member

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    Welcome to the forum. <!-- s:D --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_biggrin.gif" alt=":D" title="Very Happy" /><!-- s:D -->

    The other thing you might want to consider doing if the forks are still to soft even after replacing the fork oil is to increase the preload slightly with washers on top of the springs (under the fork cap). That said, if you put some zip ties around the fork leg (only loosely, but tight enough to act as a marker) then go for a hard ride, emergency brake, stoppie, whatever you normally do. See how much more play you have in the fork travel.

    If your bottoming out then you need it stiffer, if your not using atleast 70% of the potential travel then the forks are too stiff for your riding style.
     
  5. Philby

    Philby New Member

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    Thanks Koma,

    I weigh about 95Kg, don't know if I am bottoming out or not but it just doesn't feel or look as stable as my mates Accros through corners.

    Just been reading through previous posts regarding suspension and have found heaps of tips.

    I have got tomorrow off so I will try your sugestion with the cable ties and go from there.

    Cheers
     
  6. koma

    koma New Member

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    Well in terms of getting the bike more stable in corners, it really is a personal thing as to what feels stable. My test for bike stability is to see if i place any load on the bars mid-corner whilst fully cranked over. If i 'could' take my hands off the bars, would i continue to track out of the corner properly? (throttle aside)

    First and easiest thing to check is tyre condition and pressure. If your on a 3LN with the 130 rear section tyre then i'd be running it at ~38psi, with the front at about 36. That will be high enough to reduce any lateral tyre distortion in corners whilst not going too high as to sacrifice grip.
    You also need to be realistic as to how worn your tyres are; as if they've now got a nice big commuter strip (flat patch) in the centre it's going to make smooth cornering feel very awkward. If front and rear tyres are above 70% tread with no abnormalities then you should be ok. If it's getting towards the end of a tyre's life, the bikes handling will really suffer.

    Exactly as i suggested with the cable-tie on the staunchion tube (fork leg). Find out how much of the front suspension your actually using! Remember it's there to be used, so if your not using it your suspension isnt working as hard for you as it could. As for the rear preload, it really depends on the condition of the rear components but if you ramp up the rear preload to about 5, that made it far more attune to cornering for me (85kg). By all means, try going higher than that... but it's always good to only change it one notch at a time, then test it out. Raising the rear preload will make the bike twitchier at low speed, but will also make turning into corners easier.
    That said, it's best if you can sort out your front suspension before you go increasing the rear preload, as if you have a problem with the front, boosting up the rear is only going to make it appear worse.

    Let us know how it goes.
    Saying it's less stable than an Across is insulting to FZR's everywhere! All of the Across'es i've ridden didnt feel anywhere near as stable as my ole 3LN-3. <!-- s:D --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_biggrin.gif" alt=":D" title="Very Happy" /><!-- s:D -->
     
  7. Philby

    Philby New Member

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    Thanks for the advice Koma,

    I tried the cabletie trick, I didn't even have to go for a ride to see there was a problem. while holding on the front brake and pushing on the front bars it used about 90% of the travel, so I will definetly be changing the fork oil and checking the seal and spring while I am at it.

    The rear preload is set at 3 so I might move that up after I have sorted out the front.

    The rubber (130/70 rear and 100/80 front) is at about 80%, and I don't see any signs of abnormal wear, and presure was spot on the mark of what you said yours were at.

    I will let you know how I go, And maybe post a pic or two of my bike
    <!-- s:D --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_biggrin.gif" alt=":D" title="Very Happy" /><!-- s:D -->

    Cheers
     

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