I did change a fork seal on my 2KR but that was 2 years ago so you will have to take anything I write with a grain of salt. You won't have to do all this hopefully. This is a complete disassembly procedure to allow bush replacement. Just do the bits you need to get the seal out. I reckon you need to only do steps 1, 4, 6, 7, 9 to do the seal replacement but it's a good thing to change the fork oil as you go. 1) I lifted the front by the neck off the ground with a chain block from an overhead beam. Remove the front wheel 2) Pull off the rubber cap at the top of the fork. Press down the internal metal cap at the top of the forktube and remove the circlip with a sharp pointed knife or a small screwdriver. The cap may need a tap with an appropriate size socket and hammer to loosen if its seized a bit. . WARNING, once the circlip is removed, the cap will come out quickly because the spring is pushing it. I think with 3LN forks, the cap screws off 3) The spring should be able to be removed from the top. 4) Undo the triple clamp bolts that hold the fork tube and the clip-on handlebar and then remove the tube from the clamps. 5) Drain the oil out 6) This bit is a bit vague for me but I think the next step is to remove the allen head bolt from the bottom of the fork and I put a long bit of 10 or 12mm aluminium tube down the inside from the top of the fork to hold the nut while it was being undone. 7) I think after that I had to remove the top fork seal by piercing or levering it out of the lower fork housing. Mine was very tight and in the end I heated the aluminium fork with the oxy to loosen up the area. Take care not to overheat aluminium 8) Hold the lower fork in a vice and remove the inner tube. This may be hard to get out and require a lot of force. I know mine did 9) EDIT compliments Wolfman Jack: reassemble order is damper rod into inner sleeve and fix damper rod to outer sleeve with the little allen bolt. Fit (new) fork bush, seal spacer (the big washer), then the new seal, circlip dust boot etc.... :END EDIT If I have missed a step send me a PM and I will add it in..
Hallo, Thx for this post. My forks are now sitting in pieces in the garage. I was originally set out to replace the fork seals only, but the bushings are in pretty bad shape. Just wondering if anyone could point me to a website where I could get some replacments (2kr). I've already spoken to a couple local bike shops but seems ppl in Qld don't hold a lot of fzr stock. Would appreciate the help. Cheers, Tommi
From the parts list (page 39) <!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://attachments.fzr250.com/FZR250/3HX1_1988_Part_numbers.pdf">http://attachments.fzr250.com/FZR250/3H ... umbers.pdf</a><!-- m --> I believe the part No. you want is 1HX 23125-00 - Try your yamaha dealer and see if they can get that.
Thanks dave. But unfortunately the yamaha dealer's apparently can't get me anything for the fzr250 cos they didn't eva import it (even with the stock code - gay). I was gunna get them from redline but then a local motorcycle shop kindly gave me a set of forks for free! & The bushings in that were in good nick so I just re-used them. <!-- s --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_biggrin.gif" alt="" title="Very Happy" /><!-- s --> Also, to add something more than a thankyou to this thread: I got a heat gun from bunnings for $38 and held that on the aluminium for about 3mins or so and the forks came apart heaps easier. (I hope thats useful to someone with a similar issue). On a small note; I did have a dilema that the rings that fit above the bushings from the 2nd 2kr front forks were angled, so I wasn't sure which way it should go in. I took a guess tho & it seems to be ok so far. Anyone have any clues on which way it should be? I did it with the smaller diameter at the top.
The local Yamaha dealer here in Tas has all the files on their computer ordering system. I gave him the the part numbers when I asked a few weeks ago about 0.5mm oversize pistons and they said they were available from overseas with a quoted price. Not sure which whay that crooked washer goes, but I am sure it's been covered in previous posts. Might find it with a search. Aluminium expands more than steel with a given heat. Good find..
Replaced my fork seals yesterday and all went well thanks to Daves walk through, <!-- s:cheers: --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/th_Cheers.gif" alt=":cheers:" title="cheers" /><!-- s:cheers: --> Dave.
Guys, Got a new set of tires fitted and the bottom bit of the right hand fork outer tube broke off. This is the bit with the bolt through it which pinches in to hold the axle. Its rideable at the moment but i dont trust it as far as i can throw it. Anyway Im trying to source a replacement and looking at the fzr400 manual it implies(states actually!) that I should replace the bushings while im at it. Ive seen some seal kits so was planning on changing them while i was at it but now wondering whether I need to replace the bushings as well! Any thoughts? Can you reuse them once they are removed if they are in good nick? Whats the normal way to assess whether the bushing is shot? Cheers Vh
hey dave, fellas, lurkers n da rest <!-- s --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_smile.gif" alt="" title="Smile" /><!-- s --> im just doing my fork oil change and im up to the fill it up with the new fluid part. the stats say 390cc of fluid in each fork OR 106mm. what i need to know is 1) which is the easier or more critical figure to go by or do they both match up and 2) when you make that 106mm measurement the fzr400 manual says to do it with a compressed fork AND no spring in it. would this be the same for the fzr250 also. im assuming that also means no tube spacer from the top should be in their either. ive also gone to a 15weight oil instead of a 10weight like the manual said. the guy at the shop said it would help counter spring sag from old spring. also does it really matter which way upp you put the main spring back in. the manual says tight part of the coil up the top. ive been thinking about it and i cant see how it would make a notiable or any difference for that fact. the more open coil will always compress first.......or is there some thing else as to the reason why that ive over loked. the sun has come out n i cant ride <!-- s --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_sad.gif" alt="" title="Sad" /><!-- s --> your wisdom would be much appreciated <!-- s:biker3: --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/th_Biker_3.gif" alt=":biker3:" title="Biker 3" /><!-- s:biker3: -->
Oil is always measured with the spring and spacer removed. Measuring (once you've pumped the oil through the passages) is more accurate and more repeatable as far as getting your forks to work properly. Adjusting the oil height modifies the fork performance near full-stroke, as it reduces the trapped volume of air, increasing the air pressure and thus the effective spring force. Increased oil viscosity / weight will NOT compensate for sacked-out springs, but if you've never changed the oil, by the time the springs are tired the oil has been sheared and mangled to the point its viscosity is close to water. If your springs are worn out, replace them, OR cut off a few live coils (fewer live coils increases the effective spring rate). Obviously, you'll need a longer spring spacer to maintain preload. Jacque Strappe's page on Suspension Tuning has some excellent tips.
<!-- s:opps: --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/th_oops.gif" alt=":opps:" title="opps" /><!-- s:opps: --> i forgot to say thanks fella dont wana sound ungrateful <!-- s --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_smile.gif" alt="" title="Smile" /><!-- s -->
