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ELEC PROBLEM (LIGHTS) + OIL

Discussion in 'Yamaha 250cc In-Line 4's' started by x5466, Jul 24, 2009.

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  1. x5466

    x5466 New Member

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    hi guys

    ok this may sound stupid but do these things have a fuse box?
    my problem is my headlights having a 2KR i have the option of turing my lights off so parkers work fine, High Beams work fine but when my lights are set to on normal they are as dull as the parkers.
    so to me this looks like a simple fuse but i cant find a fuse box on it.

    another quick question where do you get your oil from (melb)?
    everywhere i look just has the generic crap (shell, Caltex, Etc)
    where can i get something like Motul or Dilo?
     
    x5466, Jul 24, 2009
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  2. dave

    dave Well-Known Member

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    There is no fuse on the lights, The original globes are only 35w, not real bright. The lamps use a P45T base H4 globe.
    Hella have a 55/60w lamp - 8GJ 004 173-121 H4 12 60/55 P45t with R2 Socket
     
    dave, Jul 24, 2009
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  3. x5466

    x5466 New Member

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    so you think it could be the globe?
    i didnt think it would be because the hight beams are still working fine
    the light used to work fine then one day it just went dull while i was riding and has stayed that way
    i do have a spare set of lights here so i might try swapping them over
     
    x5466, Jul 25, 2009
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  4. dave

    dave Well-Known Member

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    OK I may have misread your original post... Get a multimeter and measure the volts at the lights. Looking from behind the globe the 2 pins in the upright direction are the ground connection (left) the hi beam (right) +ve connection and the horizontal pin above the 2 uprights is low beam +ve connection..

    Measure the volts on ground and low connections at the globe - should be 11v or more at each globe. If not measure from the battery -ve connection to the ground connection of the globe, then measure from the battery +ve connection to the low beam connection of the globe.. Report to us..
     
    dave, Jul 25, 2009
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  5. brad1

    brad1 New Member

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    Certainly can be light bulbs.

    The filament slowly burns out from use and thermal shock. At the age of the bike it isnt unusual for the filaments to be weak or broken.

    Definantly check the voltages, but my guess would be a bulb issue. I am sure I ran standard car H4's in mine way back- if you have a car handy swap the bulbs, or just one, to see a difference.

    If it is the bulbs, for a bit of additional light (providing fittings are the same of course) Phillips do H4's in the +80 range- +80% light of a standard halogen. Narva do a similar product. Should be able to pick 2 bulbs up for $60 odd. I have been impressed by the result of the Phillips.

    I have my favourite oil (PM Lubricants- <!-- w --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.pmlubricants.com.au">www.pmlubricants.com.au</a><!-- w --> or PM me) and personally wont use anything else for quality. Otherwise, most bike shops carry suitable oils- motul, silkolene and the like.

    Brad
     
    brad1, Jul 28, 2009
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  6. Trev084

    Trev084 Active Member

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    I have been told that using high wattage headlight bulbs can draw too much current and can cause the coils too be underpowered.
     
    Trev084, Jul 28, 2009
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  7. brad1

    brad1 New Member

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    I havent found it to be an issue.

    As mentioned, I had that setup in my FZR, and most people I know did the same. The only thing I will say is ensure all electrics are in good condition- connections, wiring, charge rate and voltage at the lights. You will know if it cant handle the charge- lights will dim severely and flare with revs.

    In saying that, I know a Veradero which is having issues at the moment (has upgraged lights) but it sounds suspiciously more like an earthing issue to me.

    Which brings me to another point- Upgrade your earths- doesnt have to be an expensive kit- just decent wiring and terminals!


    Brad
     
    brad1, Jul 28, 2009
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  8. dave

    dave Well-Known Member

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    You will find that most motorbike alternators/regulating systems work by running flat out and any unused energy is shorted to ground, so you cant really overload the system.

    The only issue is at low revs/idle that insufficient energy is produced to run the extra load AND charge the battery, so in heavy city traffic the battery can run flat and the bike stops. Normally you would need the radiator fan running continuously also to achieve this result.
     
    dave, Jul 28, 2009
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  9. Trev084

    Trev084 Active Member

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    Ok, I was told by a mate that has owned a few FZR's, He said that turning the lights off made his feel like it had more power but it probably has to do with the alternator load on the engine.
     
    Trev084, Jul 28, 2009
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  10. x5466

    x5466 New Member

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    ok dave i tried what you said with the multi and got no reading at all so i think i may have been doing it wrong however
    there are 5 wires in the assembly 3 straight to the bulb and 2 others that go into the assembly, i found the lights stayed on when i unplugged the 3 in the bulb but high beams dont work so i take it those 3 are just for the hight beams.

    also i tried changing the bulbs and still not any better and i had a spare headlight assembly so i changed that next again didnt fix it so the problem is else where.
    the only thing i can think of from here is that it is in the toggle switch on the handlebars
    is there anything else it might be?
     
    x5466, Aug 3, 2009
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  11. dave

    dave Well-Known Member

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    Here is a picture. Test the voltage in the plug I circled, leave the other headlight plugged in..
    [​IMG]
    In the drawing the black is ground, green is low beam and yellow is high beam.
    I don't know what the real colours of the wires are..
     
    dave, Aug 3, 2009
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  12. x5466

    x5466 New Member

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    thanks dave
    now im going to sound really dumb
    i got which plug to test no worries but i think the reason i got nothing is because i had the multi meter on the wrong setting... so what do i set it to?
     
    x5466, Aug 5, 2009
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  13. dave

    dave Well-Known Member

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    Volts DC
     
    dave, Aug 5, 2009
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  14. glen5122

    glen5122 New Member

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    see what i mean about nice and patient

    any thing greater then 15vdc(volts direct current) eg 20vdc or 60vdc.
     
    glen5122, Aug 7, 2009
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  15. dave

    dave Well-Known Member

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    Depends on you meter. I am a bit spoilt by auto-ranging meters. But yes any range setting on a meter that measures over 15vdc would be good. 20vdc would be optimal. With the price of basic digital meters being under $10, they are a handy addition to the tool box... These are suprisingly accurate too..

    <!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=QM1500&keywords=multimeter&form=KEYWORD">http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.as ... rm=KEYWORD</a><!-- m -->
    [​IMG]
     
    dave, Aug 7, 2009
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  16. x5466

    x5466 New Member

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    ok mate
    between black and yellow (high beams) nice reading of 11.1v both side
    between black and green (low beams) read 0.0v
    so my high beams are working nicely but lows aren't.
    any idea?
     
    x5466, Aug 10, 2009
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  17. glen5122

    glen5122 New Member

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    it might pay to have a look in the toggel switch.
     
    glen5122, Aug 10, 2009
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  18. dave

    dave Well-Known Member

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    I will go with Glen5122 - presuming that you switched to low beam then measured the low beam connections, I would say the HI/LO beam switch, or a connection between the switch and the lights, but most likely the switch.
     
    dave, Aug 10, 2009
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  19. brad1

    brad1 New Member

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    That's the only thing you can do- trace back through the wires untill you find current.
     
    brad1, Aug 10, 2009
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  20. x5466

    x5466 New Member

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    yeah that was my original gut feeling.
    there's no relays or fuses or anything else like that between the battery and globes?
    thanks guys ill have a good look and let you know how i go
     
    x5466, Aug 10, 2009
    #20
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