Hello im wondering how much it will cost for the cabie rebuild kits for all four of the carbs. For a 3ln1 motor. Thanks
Re: Fzr cabie rebuild kit price. you cannot get kits you have to buy all the parts on there own from yamaha and there not cheap i have just had them rebuild and i got the parts for them most of the stuff is 2week from japan aswell
it best to get yours looked at and see what you need then get the parts as the set from japan could be the same the parts cost like $30 each for needle and seats and $60 to $70 for mertering needle set . i was going to buy other set of carbys but like said could be the same as one i had already
so it will be $100 cheaper just to get the new carbies? (in total) And cheaper still because it can be orderd with the motor coming in from japan. Just wanted to know bec the mech said the carbies where the only repairable part in the motor. We will see what happens. Hope the engine gets in soon! Thanks Hankjones!
yeah i had my ones rebuild tune and balance on the bike for $600 with parts it goes good and will not start when dead cold without the choke which is good mean it not running rich the fzr250 are know for carby problems said the guy that did my one up
New jets, so needle and main and pilot and the needle and seat would be cheaper bought direct from Mikuni, they are Mikuni carbs i think. The Distributor is in QLD, here is there website with contact details. http://www.mikunioz.com/index-2.html Dont bother emailing, use the website to work out what you need and then phone them to order it with your credit card. You will have to work out what you need before calling, they wont be able to tell you. Cheers, Bob.
are there anygood after market carbs for the fzr250 3ln1? maby some that increase proformance a small bit but still keep it in the legal power/weight ratio.. But then again considering that an rvf400 is L legal it would be hard to get the fzr out of the ratio.. and also a bit off topic but if the rvf400 is Lams legal then why isnt the fzr400 and cbr400 and all the other 400's out there? and why is the older vfr400 not lams legal?
It works on power to weight ratio. The RVF must be the only one with a power output thats under the limit for weight. Being a V4 its probably got a higher torque output. Maybe the others is because they are Grey imports. Dito with the early VFR Not sure what carbs would work. You could try 4 x flat slide carbs. But that wont improve rideability. You need to keep in mind that most aftermarket carbs have the inlet at 90 deg to the fuel bowl, the FZR carbs are angled down a fair bit so your going to have a bit of trouble finding a carb that will work. You would be better off investing in a quad throttle sequential injection setup. Cheers, Bob.
ok i got it all up untill this bit <!-- s:-? --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_Eyecrazy.gif" alt=":-?" title="Eye Crazy" /><!-- s:-? --> now im so confused i cant even act like i know what you mean. I get what some of this is but only by its self or on a different setup. Please could you explain? How does Quad throttle sequential injection work and how would it fit onto the bike. what are the differences in not only proformance but fuel efficiency and ridability at lower rpm. and also how much would it cost to get that system and is it hard to install. and is it hard to get a system that fits the fzr250 3ln1 ? I dont expect an awnser for half of the questions but if you do care to explain even some of them i would be very very greatfull. Thanks very much! <!-- s --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_smile.gif" alt="" title="Smile" /><!-- s --> <!-- s --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_smile.gif" alt="" title="Smile" /><!-- s -->
I got the time. lol. Quad = 4 Throttle (body) = carby but only the air part, so just the butterfly on the throttle shaft. Sequential = fired at intervals so it is only firing when the inlet valve is about to open. Older multipoint EFI was batch fire, all injectors at the same time. For what the FZR is you would need it more precise. Injection = fuel delivered by injectors metered at precise amounts at the correct time. It would basically be a full custom setup. Not easy to do but not impossible. Not cheap either. Youd need the throttle bodys. You could have the carbs modified and sealed up so all thats left is a clear bore and the throttle shaft with the butterfly. You need somewhere to mount the injectors, so custom inlet manifolds or mount them in the throttle body somewhere somehow. Then the computer would take care of the rest. But you would need to wire that in, temp sensor, throttle position sensor, air pressure sensors, maybe even an air flow sensor would be needed. And then the ignition side of it would probably need to be handled by the computer too so that you get the best from it. Then the whole lot would have to be tuned, that would be easily half the cost. Due to the size of the motor and the RPM involved to get the best from it there would be little room for error. You could make it do pretty much what you want. if you had it as fuel and spark you could improve the bottom end. If it worked in with the EXUP and even controlled the EXUP you could get it heaps fatter in the mid range. Well within reason, something 4cyl that revs to 16500rpm is never going to chug around like a single cylinder of the same size. Ive got a GPX250 here that belongs to my brother. Even its a bit docile low in the revs. Its a bit docile up top too, well to me it is. Ive started to gel with it a bit better so im half itching to get it up in the hills and see if it can put a smile on my face. Bob.
Sounds much to hard, Atm just looking to get the bike running nice. I hope the engine is as good as they said. It just sounds like a bit 2 much trouble. I would love to see someone do this 2 an fzr but sorry it wont be me. I was saying an aftermarket set because maby the wont be as fussy as the fzr's and have all the problems but it must be the mounting that makes the problems so new carbs wouldnt do much good. But if you get some nice cheap ones thats always better then taking the risk ordering a 20 year old set from japan!
yo, why not just buy some carby cleaner? open em up? scrub them so they look all perty throw carby cleaner in every nut and bolt/hole and buy new seals? only problem i had when pulling my carbies apart was the the machined screws, mine had not been opened since the bike was made (there is no question about it) So i ended up threading them, bought the screws for $4.50 each and carby seals, tune her up, most of ur carby problems solved <!-- s --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_smile.gif" alt="" title="Smile" /><!-- s -->
