I made a short vid so you can see and hear the bike It was running when I got ripped off buying the bike but it had no power , just slowly creeped up to 140 i think was as high as the road I was on would allow me to get to . But after spending a few hundred and waiting 3 weeks I went to get my bike home . I just managed to splutter home , stalling when stopping on the way. Once home fuel was pouring out , but I couldn't see from where . Then this issue started . Bike wont start unless the throttle is pulled but then it wont rev no matter of throttle position. In the vid you'll see I bypassed the fuel tap but that made no difference. Any help or guidance as where I should start would be greatly appreciated. Also if there is anyone out there that lives close to me and has a compression tester I'd be grateful if you could drop by as the mechanic (untrustworthy mechanic) says my compression is low , "about 95 per cyl " but who knows . <!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bbmsYTcN5G0">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bbmsYTcN5G0</a><!-- m --> there the vid. the fuel pump is missing too , but I read here it shouldn't be a big issue. thanks Simon.
Sounds like you have a stuck float, or a fleck of crap in a float needle. The bowl is overflowing and flooding the carb. The next time this happens, give it a whack with a mallet. If that doesn't jar it loose, pull the carbs and clean the bowls & floats. Check and clean your inline fuel filter and the outlet screen in the tank as well (undo the outlet ports). Is your tank full of crud? 95psig is awfully low. When was the last time the valve clearances were checked? Tight clearances (the intakes tighten up over time) will cause poor compression, hard starting, and overall crappy running. For the 3LNs, the fuel pump is pretty much a fashion accessory - a few people are running quite happily without it.
tanks clean , filters are good . The carbies should be fine but seeing as this is how the mechanic returned the bike I guess I should pull them down and go over them. Can anyone point me to where the low cost carby kits are for these ? So if I use the clear hose to check float heights , when I switch the motor on that level should go down or stay the same ? My float levels on all carbs is about at the bend in the float bowl so about 10mm? above the line I'll have a go at the valve clearances , hopefully it's that . The bike isn't blowing smoke so I hope it's not rings it needs. No idea when they were last seen to as I have only just got the bike and was fed a bunch of lies prior to picking it up.The exhaust reads like the bike is running rich If that helps at all ? but the low compression wouldn't cause it to not run would it ?
If the one cyl is running so rich the bike barely runs at all, then yeah, your pipe will read rich... <!-- s:-? --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_Eyecrazy.gif" alt=":-?" title="Eye Crazy" /><!-- s:-? -->
not looking good so far with the valve clearances , 0.08mm exhaust side on cyl 1 and 0.05mm on one of the inlet ports and if i push the 0.04mm (smallest I have) it goes in ,so if i guess it's between 0.00mm and 0.02mm on the other inlet. So this is what causes my low compression ?
i'd take the carbs off and open them up to clean them and inspect the needle and seats, does your exup work? it should move back and forth when you turn on the ignition at the same time as the fuel pump makes noise. good luck with the valve clearance - i found it hard to find shims for the fzr250...
Yamaha has used those shims in over 3/4 of the sports bikes it's ever made - all the FZRs, the YZF600 and 750, the new FZ6 and FZ1. Hell, the intake valve lifter buckets on the 2010 FZ1 use a 3LN part number. Download the FZR250 parts catalogue; do a site search here. Go to your dealer and tell him to pull his head out.
Ok this is where I am at now after tonights effort I can reuse a few shims but will need to find the rest . So far so good nothing is out of place <!-- s --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_smile.gif" alt="" title="Smile" /><!-- s --> 2am so thats it for now ....
my mates bike does the exact same thing, he bought it for 3k and after 1 day it wouldnt move, just started and wouldnt rev. mechanic said the motor was stuffed because the cam chain was loud and it was blowing white smoke. so swapped my stolen recovered fzr engine in and its does the exact same. have had the carbies off hundreds of times cleaning and tuning, still stuffed
it's sure not fun when they are not running. After I do the carbs I'll let you know how I go.The engine is back together and in tolerances , I'm not real happy as they ended up on the low side (.11-.13for intake .2-.21 for exhaust) If it's still not right then I'll move onto the electrical side of things , battery , coils, r/r etc and post how it goes until perfect .
The entire FZR line is notorious for tightening up the intake valve clearances; Yamaha apparently used case-hardened cheese for the intake valve material. When you factor in the speeds these engines turn at, tight intake valves is a pretty common complaint.
OK valves are done , sadly to turned out at lowest settings both sides , I did the math to make the 1.6 and 2.6 but both side when refitted read at the .1 , oh well that will do for now . I have also put the carbs back on , wow they were a bit mixed around . I now have it main 100 and 102.5's (I think as one I could only read 2.5 so figure its a 102.5) starters are 37.5 (but again one i can't read) pilot air are all 105's pilots are 10's (they were 30's which i think is for the 2kr's?) needles are now all 5ct7's The bike runs now as it did when I purchased it , so still not well . It starts and idles fine , but has nothing at low revs , mid throttle is good , top is not great. On to float heights , this is where I am having issues , does anyone have the height at which I can measure each float ? while I am searching.. (not tube method please I've tried that) Once this throttle issue is sorted atleast the bike will be more rideable . I could ride it now but I'm sick of bikes around here that are not fun , and stalling at stops and not smooth through the whole rev range is definately not fun .
a little better , it will idle nicely when stopped , tacho's isnt working so i cant say exactly what revs , but it still needs alot to take off. i still have great mid throttle , still nothing at full so overtaking is not an option , and first 1/3 of throttle is not smooth enough yet . fingers crossed the pump will fix this (yes i've read people go with out it) Cause I need that full throttle to get over 150 , and not being able to take off nicely is just plain rude <!-- s --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_smile.gif" alt="" title="Smile" /><!-- s --> Oh it pops a while accelerating at 1/8 - 1/4 throttle I suppose you'd call it. till the revs get up then gets better , which makes it real difficult to stay in speed limits when the bike is best between 90 and 140 kph.
name similarities I should be more observant , save me posting in 2 places <!-- s --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_smile.gif" alt="" title="Smile" /><!-- s --> ..
Hello FZRSHREDDER, Good idea to post the actually running condition of your FZR on Youtube- that's exactly how mine WAS running! l've sent a message of how l cured mine to a Ben and dave and it'll make it to this forum. Here it is anyhow-not too computer-savy/effecient at times Mine has a fuel pump but I've read where others do not. I set the float tang/tab just so it just touches the spring-loaded tit of the inlet needle. The float moves a bit- almost like it's not enough movement. This was done with the plastic float assembly out of the carb and angled so the tang/tab is just resting/touching the needle tit. I also blew through the inlet side(with that O-ring) to verify there would be flow. I tried that method of setting the fuel height according to that cast-in line of the bowl but just ended up lowering the floats to the point I described. No more loading up/holding the throttle open & it just runs........."cured". No top-end starvation and I've hit 180(interesting feeling/sound on that little screamer!) Hope this helps and I'd like to stay in touch as we really don't have any connections over there re parts/info, etc., save for Dave/FZR250 club interactions. Nick(the actual owner/pilot of the bike) did buy a fairing set off E-bay and I was quite impressed with fit/finish/value.........she also has a period piece Kerker K2S can on her that gives a nice snarl at rpm and burble at idle: Nick is happy now!
Thanks for the PM Britt. Looks like your post above will cover it. but I will add it into the reference section as well.
