too much petrol?

Discussion in 'Yamaha 250cc In-Line 4's' started by Cristian187, Apr 4, 2011.

  1. Cristian187

    Cristian187 New Member

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    Hey hows it going? My names Cristian and i recently purchased a 90 fzr250, 3ln1.

    I've had the bike for about 3 weeks with no problems (got my licence 2 weeks ago) so im fairly new into the whole bike scene (had never even sat on a bike before mine).
    The other day i was riding home and it started chugging as it does when its time to flick to reserve, so i stopped, changed it and that was that. The next day however i took it out as i reached my first traffic light for some reason the bike stalled, for some reason it wouldnt start normally (no battery or something) but i clutch started it straight away, and rode to the petrol station (everything seemed fine).

    However this is where i ****** up, i went to put petrol but i thought i would see how much i could fit into the tank, big mistake. As i rode off it felt very heavy and slow... as i rode off it was jerky, it would pull me then slow down and this repeated for a fair bit. I was just riding up the road to my mates place but the whole way there the bike was running no where near as quick as it would normally be. As i got off the bike i realized that petrol was running down the engine and a lot of it. i opened the petrol cap and it was more full than it was before so i tried to empty some of it and the rest just kept running down my engine and onto the floor. After that i left it to dry for a bit, but when i went to ride it the same problem as before, very slow and seemed hard to pull... I fiddled with the spark plugs a bit but (just took off the black plug and looked around) but when i tried to start after that a lot of smoke came out of my exhaust so i decided to leave it till i ask you experts.

    thanks in advance for the help...
     
  2. dave

    dave Well-Known Member

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    I would say that you have some rubbish come through from the petrol tank and stuck in one of the carbs float valves. This is causing one or more of the carbs to overfill with petrol and run out the breather vents.
     
  3. Cristian187

    Cristian187 New Member

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    Fair enough, i have no clue how to check that so i think ill just take it to a mechanic... I emptied the petrol and checked the hoses coming out of the tank and also checked inside the tank and cleaned it a bit, but that didn't help. I changed the spark plugs, and put new petrol and it seemed a bit better but still not 100% but when i got to my first traffic lights the bike died on me. I clutch started it and managed to get it close to home but as soon as i came to a stop it stalled again. So i ended up walking it home. However im not sure if this was because my battery is dead.

    I was reading this forum and saw somewhere that you shouldnt use Shell v-power (high octane fuel) on my bike? I think that's what might of ruined something because since i got my bike (2 weeks ago) i have filled up twice at shell and have only put v-power. However the day i changed my petrol around to normal petrol and it overfilled is when my problems started, weird.

    So i emptied my petrol AGAIN and going to try something different, if no good still ill take it to the mechanic down the road
     
  4. deadbirds

    deadbirds New Member

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    id say you stired up some muck when you filled up to the top. i think its a 15liter tank +3 reserve?
    iv had fuel come down the engine befor because i put in too much fuel but that was because my hose had a very tiny split and the weight of the full tank just stretched it a bit too much.
     
  5. Cristian187

    Cristian187 New Member

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    So i ended up taking it to red barron at liverpool (just down the road) and they told me they would perform a compression test (something like 90 80 90 70) so that should be fine they think at least for a while.
    They ended up cleaning the carbs $300 for that.
    and said i needed a new airbox, carb bowl gasket and new jets or needles for the carbs ($80 each x 4)
    And im missing a fuel pump $150
    All up they told me im lookin at 700 in just parts... not sure how much on labour... could anyone tell me if they think this is allright? or they think i might be able to source the parts from somewhere else?

    any help will do thanks
     
  6. dontz125

    dontz125 Active Member

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    These people are clowns and thieves.

    1. The 3LN does not require a fuel pump. The difference between fuel left under gravity feed and full-empty isn't worth $150. There are other options other than OEM price.

    2. Wemoto.com has float valve and bowl gasket kits for GBP22 each, http://www.wemoto.com/bikes/Yamaha/...cture/Carburettor_Gasket_and_Float_Valve_Kit/ Yes, that's the FZR1000 kit - gotta love the Yamaha 'parts bin' mentality.

    2a. If all you want is the float needle, boats.net has them for USD20 each, http://www.boats.net/parts/detail/yamaha/Y-3GM-14107-17-00.html. Your local indy bike shop can probably get pattern parts for less.

    3. 70-90 psig cold cranking pressure is NOT 'good enough for now'. The manual says 8-10 kg/cm2 (113-145psig) @ 400 rpm. This low compression will cause all sorts of problems, most especially hard starting. Check your valve clearances; we had a young fellow (here or on one of the other FZR sites) recently regale us about adjusting his shims and increasing his compression from 80-90 to 120psig.

    4. Air boxes are available at wreckers and on ebay (and on here, for that matter). Keep your eyes open.

    These are all things you can do in a lazy afternoon, with a beer and radio to keep you company. FFS, don't pay a dealership several hundred $$ for something you can and should be doing yourself...

    Edit - talk to this guy about a fuel pump and airbox, http://fzr250.com/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=3665
     
  7. Cristian187

    Cristian187 New Member

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    Thanks everyone for the reply's btw, damn after reading your post i realise how overpriced everything is. I guess they dont really bother trying to find a cheaper solution, the quickest way for them is to get off their yamaha suppliers in japan at my expense (which is understandable if you were in there shoes).

    The thing is when i spoke to the guy there, i asked if i could try get the parts myself and he told me it was up to me, but goodluck, so i figured stuff going through the headache, i just want my bike back <!-- s:( --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_sad.gif" alt=":(" title="Sad" /><!-- s:( -->
    However considering that its going to take over a week for the parts to get here from japan (thats what they said), i might as well call him tomorrow and ask if i can just get the parts myself, because from what you just showed me i can get them at a fraction of the price.

    If i knew about bikes i would honestly try and do this myself, i actually find it interesting but because its my first bike (just got it 3 weeks ago), i dont know much and really dont want to be messing around with it in case i make it worse. Its a slow progress but im learning :p

    So just to get this straight, that link you sent me for the float valve and bowl gasket kit will fit my bike?
     
  8. dontz125

    dontz125 Active Member

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    I cross-referenced the 250 and 1000 float needles, bowl gasket, and jet holder gasket - all the same part number.

    This stuff is pretty basic wrench-twirling - we're not talking cracking the cases or degreeing the cams. Find a buddy who's into bikes or cars, and have at it. Take your time, take notes, take pics. Have a (reasonably) clean area to work; put stuff down in careful piles. When working on carbs, take ONE apart at a time! <!-- s:lol: --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_lol.gif" alt=":lol:" title="Laughing" /><!-- s:lol: -->

    This is the kind of stuff you want to learn to do. Fix the carbs, check your valve clearances, get it running - you'll be totally amazed with yourself. <!-- s:cool: --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_cool.gif" alt=":cool:" title="Cool" /><!-- s:cool: -->

    If the valves do need adjusting, this is a little more advanced, but it's more finicky than hard - do everything in exactly the right order (follow the manual to the letter), and it'll go fine.
     
  9. ssimonn

    ssimonn New Member

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    when I tested my compression , it was approx 90 90 90 80 , I've posted a link to a vid in another post of mine of how it ran when the comp. was that low , and it was probably lower when the bike was hot. So a mechanic telling you that those psi are fine is probably as good a mechanic as the one i took my bike to.
    As stated by dontz125 above (and believe him as he has helped me with invaluable advice)the required work to fix your bike is not hard at all , if your not savvy with bikes you'll need a FULL day to do the valve clearances and float heights/tuning , may as well balance your carbs while your there. To speed things up , if I could have before I first started mine , I'd call around to find shims first , between sizes 165 and 225. be sure to ask if they have more than one of each size. Ask mechanics for shims , not dealers (if you can help it) saves you some $$ for other things .
    You must buy your own parts even if you use a mechanic , unless money is no issue , and sometimes time is no issue, heck the local yamaha to me said "yeah 10 weeks to get a 102.5 jet" <!-- s:o --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_surprised.gif" alt=":o" title="Surprised" /><!-- s:o --> they have no time to find cheap parts .
    I also haven't put a fuel pump on. I would have but can't afford it and it doesn't appear necessary.

    if you do decide to do it yourself let me know and i'll link you to the guides that helped me , as this was my first time in an FZR250
     
  10. Cristian187

    Cristian187 New Member

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    Thanks for the advice, i tried to call them back the same day i told them to get the parts but they had already ordered them from japan and apparently couldnt cancel it. I would of gave it a shot but i honestly just wanted it fixed asap and without hassles.
    So i decided just to go ahead with it and hopefully they would fix it. However $1300 later, i went to ride my apparently fixed bike, and it was the exact same way, if not it seemed worse, than how i left it. I could hear the same problem as soon as i turned it on and got sus when the girl said, 'oh we fixed it, but due to the low compression it wont get any better than what it is'.

    As soon as i took it for a test ride the problem was clearly still there, she told me they had apparently test rode it and it was fixed (as good as it could be). I dont see how thats possible as it kept stalling for me and i couldnt even ride it far because it felt the same way as when i took it there. I argued with them for about half an hour because there was no need for them to fix all the other **** if it wasnt going to fix the problem i took it there for. They told me the compression was low but not enough for it to be the engine and now there indirectly telling me i need a new engine to fix the problem. Had they told me that at the beggining i would of spent the money on a new engine or rebuild. I called fair trading explaining the situation and they gave me some good advice so im going to go talk to them and see what happens...

    I think i should start looking for a new engine or do you think its worth rebuilding? I know its more expensive so i think it might be better if i just get a used motor... Anybody suggest any good mechanics who might be able to have a look at my bike without doing me over?
     
  11. SnowFox

    SnowFox New Member

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    Dependent on location, you could hit up my mechy, Shannon from Campbelltown Motorcycles. Blaxland Road Campbelltown. Hes had a lot of experience with my bike lol.
     

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