Fork seal help

Discussion in 'Yamaha 250cc In-Line 4's' started by Crunchbite, Sep 24, 2011.

  1. Crunchbite

    Crunchbite New Member

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    Hey guys, I went to a dealer and asked for a set of 3ln FZR250 fork seals.
    The box says 38x50x10.5 mm (Seems ok)
    Other numbers on box. 33-129-17 : Fork Seal kit
    FORK SEAL KIT (021)

    Problem is, i can -just- get it over the top of the tube, but it sits in a recess, after that I just can't seem to hammer the bloody thing on.
    The last ones that were on there slid over no worries, but they were 20 years old, leaky and probably a bit swollen.

    My question is how tight should they be to get on, do they need a solid bit of whacking to get them over the fork tube?
    So pissed off, done so well to get here on my first attempt, if only I could get this seal on, I am worried though they gave me the wrong one.
    please advise.
    Thanks.
    James.
     
  2. Crunchbite

    Crunchbite New Member

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    Never mind that, pulling the forks apart, the ******* bottom bush pulled through the top bush, i can't get the fucker out.
    God damnit... i'm almost ready to buy a new fork.

    Anyone here got any spare forks?
     
  3. dave

    dave Well-Known Member

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    From memory when I put new seals in my 2KR they were difficult. I did a writeup some time after.
    It may help..
    <!-- l --><a class="postlink-local" href="http://fzr250.com/viewtopic.php?f=34&t=3432">viewtopic.php?f=34&t=3432</a><!-- l -->
     
  4. Efzedaah

    Efzedaah New Member

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    When I rebuilt my Yamaha 350YPVS (RZ to you??) forks it seemed normal practice to use the upper stanchion to pull out the bush in the fork leg lower part.

    In other words undo the bolt at the bottom of the fork so that the top/chrome part of the leg can be released from the fork leg bottom. The only part that should stop it is the bush in the bottom leg stopping the bush in the top/chrome part passing by. You can now use the top/chrome part just like a slide hammer (??) and knock the bush from the fork leg bottom.

    What you MUST NOT DO is replace the bush in the fork leg bottom before you have slid the top/chrome leg WITH ITS BUSH into the fork bottom leg.

    It wouldn't do any harm to replace all four fork bushes. The legs are the important bit, you can destroy the old bushes removing them. Just be carefull and put wood spacers in the vice <!-- s:-? --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_Eyecrazy.gif" alt=":-?" title="Eye Crazy" /><!-- s:-? -->

    Anyone know the poundage/strength of std 3LN fork springs???

    Chris
     
  5. dontz125

    dontz125 Active Member

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    Free length = 559.6mm
    K1 = 7.8 N/mm (0.8 kgf/mm)
    K2 = 13.7 N/mm (1.4 kgf/mm)
     
  6. Efzedaah

    Efzedaah New Member

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    What do you mean by K1 & K2??? Different models?

    I noticed my 3LN3 had progressive springs, is it the poundage of each part?

    Chris
     
  7. dontz125

    dontz125 Active Member

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    K = the spring constant; the springs are dual rate, so two K factors.
     

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