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New engine not starting

Discussion in 'Yamaha 250cc In-Line 4's' started by stocky, Dec 18, 2011.

  1. stocky

    stocky New Member

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    Just finished installing a new engine to my 91 fzr250. The new engine is a combo of a new bottom end, and the old top end. I can't get the thing to start, however the old engine did have similar trouble starting. It just cranks over and over and there is the occasional misfire. I actually got it to start a few times, however it wouldn't rev, and I pretty much had to hold the throttle open just to get it to idle, and even then it didn't sound right. I've been fiddling with the pilot screws and it didn't seem to make much difference. The correct setting is 3x360 degree turns yeah?

    Have checked the leads and they seem to be putting out a spark when tapped against a screwdriver. Fuel pump seems to be delivering fuel. Float level of the one carby i could get to was at the line. Not sure what else to check. Also, can anyone confirm the correct lead order for the 3LN1? I've found that one picture floating around, but wasn't sure if its the same for this model.
     
  2. yyzmxs

    yyzmxs New Member

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    You mean order of spark plugs?

    BTW, reading your post, I don't see any proof that the fuel makes it into the cylinders. By turning the idle screws 3 turns out, doesn't mean the fuel is getting into the cylinders. What about your choke, does it work? I suspect your carbs and jets need cleaning (you didn't mention anything about the state of the carbs ...). These carbs and jets are so small, that it is very easy to get them plugged, by letting them stand for few months with fuel inside.

    You can also do a propane test. Take a propane bottle and long hose. Direct the hose into the air box, open the valve for 5 seconds and try to start the engine. If it runs (it should for a very short time) that will confirm that electric wise the bike is OK and your problem is indeed a fuel delivery.

    Good luck.
     
  3. stocky

    stocky New Member

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    Well I took apart the carbies and cleaned them out. They didn't seem dirty or anything. Put it back together and didn't really notice much improvement. I took a video of me trying to start the thing. Sometimes it would barely run without holding down the starter. Most of the time it would die as soon as the throttle moved. You can see this in the video. I also noticed a bit of smoke coming out of the exhaust after I turned it off. Didn't seem right, but that could just be oil burning off it.

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uZeXQPrmnGc
     
  4. yyzmxs

    yyzmxs New Member

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    Don't hold your starter button for such long time. You are just draining the battery and wearing down your starter components ....

    I bet you are not getting proper amount of fuel mixture in. You didn't answer whether your choke is functioning mechanically properly ... Also you mentioned you cleaned up the carbs. Does that mean you had every needle out and made sure they are not plugged in any way?

    If I was you I'd just do the propane test. It's the quickest and single most useful thing to determine whether you have fuel or electrical problem.

    BTW, what exactly was done to the engine and why was it done in the first place? Have you checked the valve clearances?

    Sorry, I have more questions than answers at this point .... <!-- s:( --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_sad.gif" alt=":(" title="Sad" /><!-- s:( -->
     
  5. stocky

    stocky New Member

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    Ok thanks. I had to install the new engine due to my old one destroying a rod bearing. For the fuel mixture, I turned the pilot screw three turns out, however how do I know if the screw is in all the way to begin with? I know there is a spring on the screw, and it was getting harder to turn the more it compressed, until it got to the point where the screw driver would start to slip off it. When it got to that point, I turned it back 3 turns.

    I will try a propane test next. Would this product perform a similar function? - http://www.nulon.com.au/products/Aerosols/Start_Ya_Bastard_Instant_Engine_Starter/#.TwoxSG9OBoM

    That would be easier for me to obtain that a propane tank, however it may not have the same result.

    When I cleaned the carbs, I took all 4 apart. Took out every part in the carb and washed them with carby cleaner. Choke seems to work fine. Checked that it worked when I had the carbies out, however I am fairly new to bikes so I am not sure how I am supposed to use the choke properly.
     
  6. yyzmxs

    yyzmxs New Member

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    Easy with the pilot screws. You can easily strip the threads. Never use a lot of strength. Turn them in until you feel resistance. Stop and 3 turns out. When you start the bike, the choke must be fully open (meaning you are pulling the black lever towards your leg ...).

    Back to your engine. Are the valve clearances on the engine within tolerances mentioned in the manual?

    Propane or engine starter sprays? I'd take the propane any time of a day. The sprays causes more harm than good and kind of hides an underlying issues sometimes .... All you need is to buy a small camping propane bottle, it's probably cheaper than the stuff in spray.

    So ...

    1. Valve clearances confirmation
    2. Hook up propane (see the other post as you should disconnect your fuel pump and gas intake into the carbs so ...)
    3. Open choke fully
    4. Open propane for 5sec.
    5. Hit starter button

    Advise your finding and we will go from there.

    Good luck.
     
  7. stocky

    stocky New Member

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    Tried the propane thing. Didn't seem to do anything. I wasn't able to find proper propane, so I used a butane bottle. Don't think it would cause too much difference. I think propane is a bit harder to come by in my country.

    I haven't got any tools to check valve clearances unfortunately. This is my first bike so I'm new to all this. Only rid the bloody thing once before the engine died.

    I sprayed the gas into the airbox sealed with the fuel tank removed and tried to get it to start. Got no response from it other than the usual. That was with the choke open too.

    Does the kickstand switch make any difference to this? I think the cable is a bit dodgy where it connects to the stand, so I disconnected it and tried again but it had no effect.
     
  8. Jay1

    Jay1 New Member

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    If I was you bro I would check your float levels before you do anything else. To make sure you actually are getting the correct amount of gas in the bowls. That could be your problem right there. If you ask me it sounds like your engine is being starved of fuel.

    You could also pull the spark plug out and do a test on the frame to make sure its sparking. But trust me mate thats not a good idea... I learnt the hard way from a Toyota Corolla...
     
  9. stocky

    stocky New Member

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    Yeah I tried each spark plug against a screw driver and they all had a spark. Not sure if it was a strong spark but it was there. Had a feeling my leads could be dodgy or in the wrong order, as the end that goes on the spark plug came off a couple of them. Had to screw them back on after chopping a bit off the lead, so thought they could be damaged.

    Is there a way to check if a fuel pump is dying? It seems to make different noises on startup from time to time, but seems to pump fuel when i take the hose off.
     
  10. Jay1

    Jay1 New Member

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    Definitely check the float levels if you are getting spark bro. Dave has a good description on how to do it on here, its also in the 400 manual.

    If you completely drain the carbs of all gas then turn the key you should hear the fuel pump clicking away for around 15 - 20 seconds. Turn the key off then back on again and it should click a few more times. Once it stops the float bowls are full and the bike should be ready in all respects to start. You should also here the little servo motor that controls the EXUP. If you don't hear that its probably the valve is probably sticking and the bike will be a real bastard to start. My bike is doing this at the moment, I need to regrease the brushings. Should really get on to that...

    Hope you get her running bro.
     
  11. yyzmxs

    yyzmxs New Member

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    I think you are making it harder for yourself .... jumping from electrical to gas and the other way around. You need to establish whether it's fuel or spark. The fact that you don't know the status of the valve clearances doesn't help because it can make analysis harder ....

    I cannot believe that there's no propane bottles in NZ the whole world uses when going camping. Everybody sells them .... Secondly make sure you let enough gas run to the airbox inlet. If the engine doesn't start and your valve clearances are good, you definitely have fuel problem and yes float levels could be one reason.

    But you see how all is connected? Work methodically, don't jump from one to another .... you need to establish that the valve clearances are not out of whack, especially on the intake side.

    Good luck.
     
  12. stocky

    stocky New Member

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    Well I had some success. The floats all go up to the float level mark also.

    I got the bike to run, without any starting spray or propane, etc. Been fiddling around with the pilot screws and starting it with the choke on. It would start, but I would usually have to hold the throttle open, press the start, then close the throttle and it would idle. I also had to fiddle with the idle screw a bit.

    It seemed to have two different ways it wanted to run. First, the idle pretty slow, and if i touched the throttle it would usually not do a lot and then want to stall. Then randomly the idle would jumped up a fair few revs, and from then I could touch the throttle and rev it and it would settle down fine after that. Then it would go back to the slow idle and do the same as mentioned earlier. Posted another video to try demonstrate.

    Thanks for your help so far guys. I think I'm getting close to sorting this.

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SgQloEUf00I&feature=youtu.be

    Sorry for the crappy sound in the video. It drops to the low idle around 45-50 seconds in, when I try rev it again before it dies. It also has the low idle between 5 and 10 seconds.
     
  13. dave

    dave Well-Known Member

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    You are right - it is crappy audio.
    Wondering if it has an air leak between the heads and carbs, where the rubber boots clamp onto the carbs, or some other air leak.
    That or maybe the float valve are not sealing 100% and you are starting to flood the carbs.
     
  14. yyzmxs

    yyzmxs New Member

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    The video makes it hard for the audio to be useful. But the moment I read about the erratic behavior of your idle on its own, I thought "air leak". So I agree with Dave.
     
  15. stocky

    stocky New Member

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    Hmm air leak would make sense. I will look for that next.

    I also believe I have found some problem to do with the fuel filter/pump. I could get the bike to start with a quick shot from the butane tank, but then it would die after about 10 seconds or so. Decided to try bypass the pump, and ran a pipe directly between the fuel tank and the carbies. Ran a lot better. It didn't die, would idle and wanted to rev. Didn't seem to do the slow to fast rev changes like before but I will keep testing.
     
  16. dave

    dave Well-Known Member

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    OK - good work. If the bike is a 3LN it will run ok without the fuel pump. It is best to have the pump running just the same. The 2KR will only run until the fuel tank level gets to about 1/3 remaining.
     
  17. yyzmxs

    yyzmxs New Member

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    Normally the bike will die shortly after it starts with the propane. As long as it was clean run. This just proves that your problem is a fuel delivery. I'd put my money on the air leak at this point, because I cannot think of anything else causing the erratic RPMs on its own ...
     
  18. stocky

    stocky New Member

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    My headache continues. I got the bike running with a new fuel filter, so fuel pump is working wine. Must have just been clogged. Still can't get the thing to rev properly from idle though. It starts up fine without any assistance, however each of the carbies behaves differently. I could not find any evidence of an air leak anywhere either.

    I tried fiddling with the slides by opening each one manually and noting what happened.

    Carby 1 (closest to the choke) - Would rev a little, then the bike would die. Fiddling with the pilot screw has made this a bit better.
    Carby 2 - Revs drop a little, nothing else happens.
    Carby 3 - Nothing noticable happens
    Carby 4 - Bike revs a lot, and continues to stay revving after I let go of the slide. I'm guessing this carby is working fine with the air fuel mixture.

    I could not get the bike to rev up from idle unless I touched the slide for carby 4. If I opened the throttle, the revs would stay low and the bike would sound like it was struggling a bit. Once I touched carby 4's slide, even slightly, the bike would rev ok and I could get it to go up to 8k or so with the throttle.

    I believe it could be an electrical problem also. I unplugged each of the two coils while the bike was running. If I unplugged the coil for 2&3, the bike started to struggle a little bit but continued to run. If I unplugged the coil for 1&4, the bike died pretty much immediately.
     
  19. dave

    dave Well-Known Member

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    Interesting what you have done. The slides do not control the amount of fuel charge going to the cylinder. They only respond to air flow to adjust the mixture accordingly.

    In the case of no.4 carb if lifting the slide makes it run better then I presume that it is running too rich, and lifting the slide causes a decrease in airflow VELOCITY across the needle which reduces the suction of fuel and lowers the fuel/air ratio.

    The butterfly controls how much fuel/air gets to the cylinder

    That is my theory
     
  20. dontz125

    dontz125 Active Member

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    Unplugging the 2-3 coil and seeing nothing happen is comparable to lifting the #2 or 3 slide and nothing happens - the #2 and 3 cylinders are basically along for the ride. Strip and clean and synch your carbs (again), set your mixture screws to 2.5 out, check the valve clearances (tight intake valves on #2 &3 means no compression = no fire, even with spark and fuel), maybe do a compression check.
     

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