are valve clearances for fzr400 the same as 1989 fzr250 2kr 1hx, I only have manual for fzr400 and mine is a 250 I am at the stage of measuring clearances but I don't know the correct clearances, I was going to go with inlet .006-.152mm exhaust .010- .254mm as a starting point which i think is midrange for the 400 but could be way out for the 250, the only thing I have for the 250 is a parts list and that's in japanese
ok while waiting for "some-one any-one" I did some measurements I'll go from cycl 1 - 4_ valve by valve and the shim size 1. in <.0015 - .038 shim 175.....002- .051 shim 175, 2. in <.0015 - .038 shim 170.....<.0015 - .038 shim 175 3. in <.0015 - .038 shim178.....>.0015 - .038 shim 175 4. in <.0015 - .038 shim 178......003 - .076 shim 175, I have another head not on motor pulled the shims from that to check sizes maybe i can use some of these they range from 1 -4 cycl 1 in 168-168...ex 175-180 2 in 158-172...ex 175-180 3 in 172-160...ex 180-175 4 in 175-172...ex 174-174 not sure what i can use but looks like i may have to replace some smaller shims put evrything together then do the clearances again because could not get feeler under cam to get a reading , I didn't pull both cams out just concentrated on inlet, Exhaust clearances were running around .009 - .229 still within specs If I have the right specs These are spec from fzr400 online manual
Inlet valve clearances should be somewhere between 0.11 to 0.20 mm. That's approx 4-8 thousandths of an inch (.004"-.008"). Exhaust valve clearances should be somewhere between 0.21 to 0.30 mm. That's approx 8-12 thousandths of an inch. (.008"-.012") Same as the FZR400 The measurements you provided make me think you are using imperial feeler gauges as i don't think you can get a metric feeler as thin as .0015mm Your numbers are confusing as you are using 2 numbers per valve? Which one is the measurement. Sometimes you have to trial and error with small shims to get a measurable clearance so you can then work out from the chart what is the correct shim size.
hi dave, feeler guages both metric and imp sizes put both on not sure who reads what, using Stanley feeler guages, am getting back into it today went out and got a pair of 150 shims and starting from 1 cyl taking measurement then taking shims to No 2 cyl and measuring again and so on til i get all four done and working out clearances from there, if i get my maths right going to try to set them all about .006 - .152mm. Super cheap sell Stanley 25 blade from 0.0015" (0.038mm) to 0.035" (0.889mm) about $16
OK heres what i've so far, put 150 shims under buckets of No 1 cyl and after a lot of mucking around putting chain and cam back in measured clearances at .007 and .009, ok, now with my calculations shim 150 or 1.50 + valve clearance .007 - specified valve clearance (i'm going for av .006) = 1.501 (by Windows calculator) so i'm thinking 150, but !!! manual says 140 (0.03 - 0.07), I'm thinking of splitting the difference and going 145 My measurements came in at with 150 shim, cyl 1 .007 - .009..1.501 1.503... 2.007 - .008..1.501 1.502...3 .010 - .010..1.504 1.504.. 4 .007 - .010..1.501 1.504 any ideas???? 145 or 150
You seem working it out a bit funny and getting wrong results . You seem to adding 1/1000 of an inch units to the metric numbers.. Best to only work in the metric numbers. If you have 0.23 mm (0.009") clearance with a 150 shim, a 155 will get you in spec at 0.17mm (0.007"), and the 0.10mm thicker shim 160 will take 0.1m (0.004") out of the clearance and give you 0.13mm (0.005") clearance. Personally, for that valve, I would use the 155 and stay on the wide side of in-spec.. The chart says to use a 160.
maths is not my strongest, thats why it's up here so someone can see where i'm going wrong, but by the sound of it i should use 155 shims for 1,2 and 4 cyls and maybe cyl3 160, or just use 155 all thru?
155s will get you in spec for all, but you may find they do not measure as expected once you change and tension the cam bearing bolts down. Make sure you rotate the engine/cams a few times to squash any oil out and get a true reading. Might be handy to have a 160 on hand.
well shims in, all 155s,motor running, can't take it for run yet still raining but will take cover of tomorrow and check the cam chains for proper timing the one thing i was worried about was cam being tooth out but seems to rev and idle once warmed up, once shims in and evrything back together turned it over by hand a few times and checked shims, were running around 6ers and 7s all seemed within clearances if evrything ok will organised to have carbs balanced and if running ok maybe I can ride it a bit b4 rego runs out, After that I can start work on my xv750, poor old girl sitting in the corner with tarp over just waiting for me to work on her, feeling kinda good at the moment may have a rum or two later to celebrate
Well took the 250 for a run today bit of backfiring thru the carbs ( mostly when I open throttle ) but then again had no filter box on, and positive the carbs needs balancing, so I'll organize that thru the week and see what happens then, Will wait til it cools down now and recheck the valve clearances now that all will have settled in and see just where I am at with those Hopefully I am still within specs, Only thing I don't know is what the setup was on the bike that I got the carbs from whether it ran with standard filter or say maybe K&N pod, or what exhaust it ran EXUP or not, but I am thinking of getting pod filters on but will give boiling the rubber boots on filter box in coolant first see if that helps run better with orig airbox on funny thing tho, just mentioned to missus yesterday about getting a bigger crock pot (insight) lol btw rum was nice last night lol
