Hard start when hot (won't rev up) and erratic idle

Discussion in 'Yamaha 250cc In-Line 4's' started by broody, Jun 8, 2012.

  1. broody

    broody Member

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    Hi, I bought my FZR 2kr last year and had the carbs cleaned and the valves checked (but not adjusted) back then. The bike usually starts fine and pulls strong all the way up to the red line, but once it's hot, it will be hard to start and tend to stall. Also, I have to leave the choke on to avoid stalling, sometimes it will rev higher and sometimes lower with the same amount of choke (once it's hot in both cases).

    When I try to restart it, it looks like this, but only when the engine is warm, not when it's cold (not my video).
    <!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=flLec1m_zoY">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=flLec1m_zoY</a><!-- m -->

    My intake rubber boots are due to be changed, the mechanic told me he will have to readjust the carbs after and I hope it will then run better. But should I look for some things before or ask the mechanic to watch certain things more carefully? And will changing the rubber intakes will thruly help the bike to run smoothly? I know they are a bit cracked but I don't know how deep.

    And there is some gas smell in my oil, so I don't know if it's runnign too rich (probably), flooding, or if some clearances/seals are bad?

    Thank you.
     
  2. Trev084

    Trev084 Active Member

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    Do a compression test on it, how is the charging circuit looking? and also what are you sing in the range of spark plugs and air filter?
     
  3. broody

    broody Member

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    I don't have charging problems as far as I know, my air filter is clean, the spark plugs are 1 year old. The compression might be low, but wouldn't a low compression hurt high rpm performances too? And how about the unstable idle?

    edit: apparently low compression may be a cause for hard starts when hot, but why? And why do I have top end power still (I can reach 180+ kph).
    I'll load test the battery too, just to make sure.
    Is it easy to make a compression test by myself?
     
  4. Trev084

    Trev084 Active Member

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    Different tolerances or maybe your intake boots are worse then they appear.
     
  5. dave

    dave Well-Known Member

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    Look for air leaks around the rubber carb boots. Seems to be a common cause..

    When the engine is hot everything leaks more, and when turning slowly there is more time for the fuel charge to sneak away. Therefor you get low compression, the fuel molecules are further apart because they are not compressed properly, the mix does not really fire, then you need the choke.

    Don't know if choice of engine oil might help with sealing the rings, say going to a 20w 50 rather than a 10w 40. Also check the valves yourself, it's not hard and could be the problem..
     
  6. broody

    broody Member

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    I had the valves checked by a mechanician last year, he said they were fine but I didn't have any details, I hope he checked them for real. I will read about checking them by myself, is there a how to on the board?

    As for the air leaks, I planned to change the rubber boots, but if my engine is toasted, I don't want to spend 120$ in parts (30-35$ each boot on internet) and about as much in labour for nothing.

    Otherwise, I had some backfires/popping when I bought the bike but I haven't heard any for a while (maybe it was just old gas), and there is no un-usual smoke.
     
  7. broody

    broody Member

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    Some update:
    I tried to start the bike tonight for a little ride and see how it runs. Despite the really warm and humid temperature, the fizzer would start right away but it sounded as smooth as an old v-twin sadly, so it was definitely running on 2 or 3 cylinders. I'll check the spark plugs (condition and gap) tomorrow and make a little video maybe. It was running on all cylinders before (when it would run), is there something I should look for? I drove it for a couple of minutes, it wasn't dying nor getting better.

    Also, I tried the CBR250 and Ninja250 2011/2012 last week, in case the fizzer is dead, and compared to the fzr, they really felt like obsolete low end crap. The CBR is quite comfortable and agile around town, but the mono cylinder is really a deal breaker, it makes quite a lot of vibration and it's gutless. The Ninja250 just felt like what it is; a 20-30 years old bike with nothing special, and a terrible driving position in bonus. So, if was about to buy something, it would be a bigger 4 cylinders, wether a brand new FZ6R (really smooth and easy to drive, but nothing particular) or a used FZ6 (better frame and more power than the fz6r).
     
  8. Carpathian90

    Carpathian90 New Member

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    hey broody, im in need of some new boots myself (for a 3LN model). i havent been able to find any though, where did you find those you quoted?
     

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