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Another fuel problem

Discussion in 'Yamaha 250cc In-Line 4's' started by kyle8800, Apr 15, 2014.

  1. kyle8800

    kyle8800 New Member

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    Hi everyone,
    I've only just joined but am glad to read in not the only one with problems with my bike.
    I have a 91 model and have lowered the fuel height to around 10.5mm. Since this the flooding has stopped but now when I ride up my driveway which is a steep angle the bike will stall if I don't have full throttle and sounds like running out of fuel
    Could this be from to low of a fuel level
    Any help would be great thanks
     
  2. dave

    dave Well-Known Member

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    The flooding is a symptom of leaking float bowl valves. These control fuel flow from the tank to the float bowl.

    Lowering the level without fixing the problem will make the bike run lean under heavy load, and therefore have less power.

    Take the bowls off and remove the valves and give them a good clean and flush out any remaining dirt above the valves
     
  3. kyle8800

    kyle8800 New Member

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    Thanks for the reply I've had the carbs out and have given everything a good clean all valves are closing properly . The bike runs great and is maybe a little in the rich side as u can smell the fuel when standing behind but when I go up a hill it still seems to be starving of fuel and will die
     
  4. kyle8800

    kyle8800 New Member

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    i notice last night while doing another tune of my carb that my exup valve is not closing all the way, could this be causeing my problem? seems to be any hill at low revs the motor will start to die and i have to hold the throttle flat and it will just crawl up but if i go into it with high revs it will make it fine??
     
  5. dave

    dave Well-Known Member

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    Can be a definite problem. Make sure it goes to the stops.

    The EXUP provides back pressure to the engine at low RPM to counteract the wild valve timing.

    Because the exhaust valves open so early, the EXUP restriction causes the exhaust gas back pressure to push the pistons down instead of escaping easily out the exhaust pipe. This provides extra torque.

    When I bought my FZR the cables were broken and the EXUP had been tied up wide open. I could not get up my driveway unless I had a good runup and about 9000rpm.
    After I fixed it up it was like a different bike and made it up easily.
     
  6. kyle8800

    kyle8800 New Member

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    Ok so replaced plugs and trimmed back the leads a little. Put new exup cables on and still have trouble going up my driveway. Bike will start to bog down but if I pull the clutch the revs come back but bogs down as soon as I release it again.
    Fuel levels check and are right. I'm out of ideas <!-- s:angry: --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/th_Angry.gif" alt=":angry:" title="angry" /><!-- s:angry: -->
     
  7. dave

    dave Well-Known Member

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    Just check the EXUP setup. Should be closed until about 5,000rpm and open progressively to be fully open at about 10,000rpm.

    Other than that you might be running lean. Running lean causes the fuel to burn slower as the fuel droplets are spaced further apart and they take longer to ignite one another. Result is the fuel is still burning when the exhaust valves open.

    Try it with the choke on if the bike is able to run with it on.
     
  8. kyle8800

    kyle8800 New Member

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    ill double check when the valve is opening in the morning and try with the choke on, if this works would it be a matter of changing the position of the needle or adjusting the fuel air mix??
    also noticed today that it is not charging and the rectifier seems to be the problem after i tested it going off other threads, could this cause any other problems other then not charging??
     
  9. dave

    dave Well-Known Member

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    From memory poor charging / low battery issues cause the ignition to stop firing and die unexpectedly. Then bike usually cranks over but does not restart.

    Battery voltage should be above 14 volts when the engine is revving over 5000rpm if all is well, otherwise charging system is kaput.
     
  10. kyle8800

    kyle8800 New Member

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    are there any wiring diagrams for the 3ln?? i can only find 2kr diagrams, i have found 2 wires twisted together after a conection and if i unwind them while running he bike dies.
     
  11. dave

    dave Well-Known Member

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    As far as i know there are only minor differences in the wiring.
     
  12. dontz125

    dontz125 Active Member

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    Sounds like someone's done a hack job on your harness. Where does each wire go to?
     
  13. kyle8800

    kyle8800 New Member

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    i havent stripped it down yet to check the 2 wires come out of the harness under the tank and then are cut after a blue connection, also the wire from what i think is the oil sensor in the bottom of the sump has been cut and i have a red connector that has 2 wires going in from the harness and only 1 coming out. will be stripping it on the weekend to trace the wires. someone has made a mess of it tho
     
  14. kyle8800

    kyle8800 New Member

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    ok so i had some time today before work and have stripped some of the harness back the 2 wires that are twisted together one blue with a yellow line and red dots the other black both are joined into the harness with 3 other wires the blue wires run to what i think is the diode and the other to the cdi, the 3rd wire runs to the clutch switch. the black wire runs up to the right hand side switches and has 2 that run to the back of the bike as well but i am yet to trace them that far. i think these wires have been joined to complete the circuit as the black will be the earth wire since the bike dies when they are disconnected but can not find where they are on the wiring diagram or any place on the bike they mite have been connected too so not sure if they have been added in to connect something or not but they are the same colour wires as the harness they are joined to which makes me think it was done from factory.
     
  15. dave

    dave Well-Known Member

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    Taking a bit of a guess here but may be either sidestand switch or neutral switch. If both of these are opened (not shorted) at the same time the bike will stop. I don't think the 2kr has a sidestand switch.
     
  16. kyle8800

    kyle8800 New Member

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    yes you are right the wires twisted together are the kickstand ones. also the other connector that only has the one wire going to it is neutral and i found the oil level wire and plugged it in and the light comes on now but dose not go out when the bike is running but i know it has the right amount of oil could the sensor be broken?
     
  17. dave

    dave Well-Known Member

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    The oil switch is a LEVEL switch, not a PRESSURE switch. Bit of a trap....
    The oil light should only turn on when the engine has a low oil level OR when you press the starter button (it is wired to do so as a lamp test). Otherwise the oil switch is faulty.
     
  18. kyle8800

    kyle8800 New Member

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    i would say it is faulty and thats why it was disconected as it doesnt turn off at all, have just orderd a gasket set and new jets and needles so will overhaul the carbs and hopefully everything will be sorted.
     
  19. kyle8800

    kyle8800 New Member

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    finally she lives. rebuilt the carbys today with new jets needles tubes and gaskets and first run was perfect went up hills and my driveway with no hesitation.
    the jet sizes are a little different to what i have found are the standard but it seems to work fine, these are the kits if anyone else wants them
    <!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.motorcyclespareswarehouse.com.au/collections/yamaha/fzr250">http://www.motorcyclespareswarehouse.co ... aha/fzr250</a><!-- m -->
    thanks for all the help just need to get it charging now.
     
  20. dave

    dave Well-Known Member

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    OK Kyle - sound like you have it mostly sorted.
    Keep us updated with the battery charging issue..
     

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