Hey guys, I'm currently doing an engine swap for my fzr 3LN3. the engine I bought it with I only got about 300km out of, then it made funny noises and i dropped a cylinder. Every now and then it would make the funny noise and the cylinder would come back on (cylinder 4) but then it would cut out again. I kept riding it and it got worse and now I'm ready to call it stuffed. Rather than spend a heap of money on a mechanic opening it up and fixing it I got a 2nd hand 'good running' motor. The new motor has a screw type oil filter which is good. The old one had the type where you had to remove the exhaust to change it. I think you can just pull the side stand off and lean it up on a wall to get to this one. ANYWAY I heard you have to use SAE20w40se or SAE10w30se oil. Is this oil going to be ok? <!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/online-store/products/Valvoline-Engine-Armour-Engine-Oil-10W-30-5-Litre.aspx?pid=89007#Cross">http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/online ... 9007#Cross</a><!-- m --> It's the same my car takes, but this ones synthetic.. only it doesn't say SAE on the bottle. Is it 2litres that I need? I have a KN303 filter coming from ebay and then I just have to hook up all the electronics, put the carby back on and a few cables and she should be good. Fingers crossed it really is a good running motor! Getting that engine in was a MASSIVE pain in the ass and I also have to rethread one of the engine mount bolts, should be ok though.
also it wasn't the carby, I had it completely disassembled and cleaned.. mechanic charged me through the roof.. 600 bucks for carby rebuild, fix front brakes and make sure it was roadworthy.. <!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PEMunRMxMvc">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PEMunRMxMvc</a><!-- m --> That's the stuffed motor.
The recommended oil is 10w40. As general guide the greater the difference between the cold number (10W) and the hot number (40) the more synthetic additives are used. You will note that top oils like a 0W50 range are very expensive. I used to run Valvolene Durablend 10W40 and got two oil changes from 5 litres.
im certain those oils I mentioned were specified on a post on this site for all fzr250 models? I will look into 10w 40
theres a supercheap local to me <!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://m.supercheapauto.com.au/Product/Silkolene-Comp-4-Motorcycle-Oil-10W-40-4-Litre/124144?menuFrom=60602">http://m.supercheapauto.com.au/Product/ ... From=60602</a><!-- m --> for 65 or castrol bike oil 10w 40 for 60 bike oils expensive! theres also shell helix hx7 10w 40 ..5 litres for 35 so an extra litre and synthetic too 25 bucks less. what do you think? once its bike specific prices go crazy. any difference? <!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://m.supercheapauto.com.au/Product/Shell-Helix-HX7-Engine-Oil-10W-40-5-Litre/215340">http://m.supercheapauto.com.au/Product/ ... tre/215340</a><!-- m -->
As long as it is not labelled as containing "zinc" (bad for clutch) the shell oil would be a good choice. Check this topic - <!-- l --><a class="postlink-local" href="http://www.fzr250.com/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=2838">viewtopic.php?f=2&t=2838</a><!-- l -->
I done some research read not to use it cos of the wet clutch in bikes and the added 'friction modifiers' aren't good for it. What would you recommend? go with the $58 semi synthetic or $65 fully synthetic silkolene, or there's castrol which I've always used in my car and that things nearly on 300,000k and still runs sweeeeeet... that's partial synthetic for 60. Think I might just go the full synthetic silkolene
wooo, filled her up with my old car oil... fired it up just to test... no exhaust. Started easily! Just had to turn the choke on... where as my stuffed motor doesn't like choke ever, not even when freezing cold. Hot air out of all four exhaust holes <!-- s --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_biggrin.gif" alt="" title="Very Happy" /><!-- s --> Buying that oil filter on ebay might mean the difference between riding next weekend or the weekend after.. dammit! Just need someone to rethread an engine mounting bolt i stuffed (can ride it anyway, the other side of the bolt gets clamped down) and re-align the rear wheel as I will be guessing....
