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New Member 1989 FZR250R

Discussion in 'New Members Say Gday' started by manynathans, Nov 8, 2020.

  1. manynathans

    manynathans Active Member Premium Member

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    My Bike:
    FZR250R 3LN1
    Connected up the cables for the exup valve today, Added a new Connector for the neutral and oil switch wires as the original was missing and the wires were just twisted together. Will need to make a little relay circuit up to invert the operation of the oil pressure switch, looks like this bike has had a later model engine fitted with the pressure rather than the level switch in the sump.
    The main fuse holder had a bad connection, so fixed that and was able to turn the key and have all the electrics working and the engine turning over freely and set the exup valve.
    There was an issue with the shipping of the fairings and they were returned to the sender, however they are now on their way again and should hopefully be with me soon.
    Next job, rebuild the carbs....



    IMG_20220220_212722_821.jpg
     
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  2. GreyImport

    GreyImport Administrator Staff Member The Chief Contributing Member

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    My Bike:
    *Kawasaki ZXR250C *Yamaha FZR250R 3LN1 *Suzuki GSX250 *Triumph Bonneville 750 T140V *Triumph Daytona 675
    Check which carbys u have as theres 3 different variations

    https://litetek.co/ReplacementPartsYamaha.html

    3LN1 engine has an internal filter and the oil level sender .... later has an external spin on filter and an oil pressure switch
     
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  3. manynathans

    manynathans Active Member Premium Member

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    My Bike:
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    Its a 3LN1 bike with 3LN1 carbs and a slightly later engine fitted with the external spin on filter.
     
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  4. GreyImport

    GreyImport Administrator Staff Member The Chief Contributing Member

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    *Kawasaki ZXR250C *Yamaha FZR250R 3LN1 *Suzuki GSX250 *Triumph Bonneville 750 T140V *Triumph Daytona 675
    Engine numbers listed here in case you need to know which model its from

    Fzr250 Model Information.png
     
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  5. maelstrom

    maelstrom LiteTek Staff Member Premium Member 250cc Vendor Contributing Member

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    Aren't they the frame numbers?
     
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  6. GreyImport

    GreyImport Administrator Staff Member The Chief Contributing Member

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  7. manynathans

    manynathans Active Member Premium Member

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    My Bike:
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    No engine number on mine, it was imported into the UK from Japan in the early nineties. Just has the usual 1HX start and the rest blank, might get creative and stamp a little message there for the next owner.
     
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  8. manynathans

    manynathans Active Member Premium Member

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    Got started on the carbs today, they were pretty filthy on the outside, actually not too bad on the inside. So lots of scrubbing before splitting the bank and stripping them down to bare carb bodies. Then some more scrubbing to get as much dirt off as possible before they go in the ultrasonic cleaner at the weekend.
    They will be getting rebuilt with new diaphragms, litetek seals and the parts from the keyster rebuild kits. IMG_20220224_153724_664.jpg IMG_20220223_152628_568.jpg
     
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  9. maelstrom

    maelstrom LiteTek Staff Member Premium Member 250cc Vendor Contributing Member

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    Don't forget the pilot merge bungs.
     
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  10. manynathans

    manynathans Active Member Premium Member

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    Yup, they are out too, Did plenty of reading on here before stripping them :)
     
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  11. GreyImport

    GreyImport Administrator Staff Member The Chief Contributing Member

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    Pull these vent tubes too and blow them out with air or something

    filters 1.png

    filters 2.png

    filters 3.png
     
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  12. manynathans

    manynathans Active Member Premium Member

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    Fairings arrived today, they look great and were well packed. Paintwork looks very nice, the plastic is definately a bit thinner and more flexible than the originals but should be fine once installed on the bike. IMG_20220301_145516_712.jpg
     
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  13. Andych

    Andych Moderator Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    Lighter = Faster and more flexible = might not break as easilly... :D
    They look good
     
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  14. manynathans

    manynathans Active Member Premium Member

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    Its been a while since any updates, I had some bother getting the butterflies aligned nicely in the carbs that were getting rebuilt. That plus beng tired and working late at night resulted in a bent throttle shaft. Had a quick look on ebay and no carbs to be had. Then managed to find someone breaking some fzr250s. 2 sets of carbs were rapidly procured, one has some parts missing and seized throttle shafts. The other had some promise. After stripping them down and separating the bank but without touching the throttle shafts this time they went into the ultrasonic cleaner and got another scrub after before being blasted with carb clean and all the internal passageways cleared with a strand of wire. The new keyster jets, and seals, needles, emulsion tubes and parts from the rebuild kits were installed as well as a new set of diaphragms from aliexpress and the rest of the parts from litetek, Then built the carbs back up, got them joined together again and all is looking good and moving freely, ready to be fitted to the bike. Then some time to tidy as the kitchen feels like it has been overrun with carb parts with bits of them lying everywhere. 1.jpg 2.jpg 4.jpg 5.jpg 6.jpg 333.jpg
     
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  15. manynathans

    manynathans Active Member Premium Member

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    Got the carbs installed as well as the airbox and all of the remaining hoses and vent lines routed. The airbox to carb boots were replaced with new ones, the originals were rock hard and unsalvagable. Found a crack in the airbox and repaired it with epoxy resin and a layer of fiberglass from the inside. One of the plastic lugs at the front of the airbox that locates into a rubber inside the frame was broken off too. The remaining stump was filed flat and then the area was drilled and tapped and a bolt screwed through it to make a new mounting lug.

    Next job was to rebuild the fuel tap and clean the petrol tank out, it was very rusty inside. It got filled to the very top with white vinegar and some salt and left in a warm place for 2 weeks and got given a shake any time I walked past it. Then it got emptied and a hose put into it and flushed through with water for an hour or so to float out most of the bigger rust particles. After that was into the oven on a low heat for a few hours to make sure it was completely dry inside. And followed up with an hour or so of blasting with an air line to blow out any remaining fine particles. Next a swirl around and a flush out with some fresh fuel. The reserve filter inside the tap was beyond saving so it was removed and an inline filter was fitted on the line from the reserve outlet on the tank to the petrol tap.
    IMG_20220407_213529_458.jpg

    Reattached the tank to the bike, put the choke on and hit the starter and not a lot happened. After a few 15 second blasts of cranking I took the choke off, and sprayed a light mist of easy start under the airbox. It fired straight up on the next crank and idled and ran nicely. Seems responsive, revs freely, idles well and makes a lovely sound with the danmoto silencer. Oil and coolant levels got checked and topped off as necessary afterwards.

    Im delighted, next job is to balance the carbs and see if I can get them any better then get the bike up in the air so the wheels can come out to be refurbished.

    The oil light is on in the videos below because it is a later sump on a 3ln1 bike and the operation is reversed, off with ignition on and on with engine running. I can make up a little circuit with a relay to correct that.



     
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  16. maelstrom

    maelstrom LiteTek Staff Member Premium Member 250cc Vendor Contributing Member

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    You've done a great job on this bike, and only 8000 times faster than me.
     
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  17. manynathans

    manynathans Active Member Premium Member

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    I got the rest of the fairings fitted and secured properly today, using rubber grommets to help prevent cracking around the mounts. The fitment of them was pretty poor to be honest, it took a lot of time to get everything sitting nicely. The front mudguard was the worst, it left a large gap between the mudguard and the tyre at the front so some 10mm thick spacers were made from alloy rod to lift the rear of the mudguard where it bolts to the forks and change it to a more acceptable angle.

    The original panels that sit inside the upper front fairing and cover the air ducts both had pieces broken off around the mounts. These were repaired by cutting the damaged areas away and making new pieces to fill them in and bonding them on with 2 part epoxy before redrilling the mounting holes and painting the repaired areas.

    Next is to fit the mirrors and recover the seats, then get the wheels away to be refurbished. IMG_20220504_193147_069.jpg IMG_20220504_193203_199.jpg IMG_20220504_193240_530.jpg
     
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  18. GreyImport

    GreyImport Administrator Staff Member The Chief Contributing Member

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    Very impressive ! :thumb_ups:
     
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  19. Mathew Turner

    Mathew Turner Member Premium Member

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    As someone still preparing a build, you are an inspiration. Only wish I had your work area!
     
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  20. manynathans

    manynathans Active Member Premium Member

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    Completed recovering one of the seats today, then got most of the way through the pillion seat and ran out of staples. Thats on hold until I get some more. Ordered some new mirrors also with the correct hole spacing, the ones I had purchased before were incorrect. Got to love ebay sellers that don't list things properly. Hopefully in the next few days the fuel tank will be getting sent off for acid dipping and paint stripping.
    I wasnt happy with the original HT leads, so have ordered a length of a suitable replacement to be done when the tank is off again. IMG_20220508_162419_596.jpg IMG_20220508_162411_190.jpg
     
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