Thanks for visiting my project. Today 10/11/13 I bought a Suzuki GSX250 for about $500 running well and completely rideable from bikesales. This is my first bike! I'm looking to cafe the (poor) thing and as you'll see I have a bit of work ahead of me. Bike works, starts and runs well for its age and has no leaks or major malfunctions. Its got minor rust and a lot of old lube that needs to be removed, and I have a MASSIVE list of things to do. I'll show you the relative look I am after and I would appreciate any tips and hints as I go. I am in Chelsea in Victoria.
Looks like a good pickup there ..... looks to be an 80-81 model? And I like your vision .... thats a good lookin cafe If u eventually go twin exhaust and u want to ditch the 2 into 1 headers ..... let me know as Im on the lookout for some. Manual is here also ..... http://2fiftycc.com/index.php?resources/categories/gs-gsx250.57/
She looks OK mate, at least you are lucky to score one that's running. Your vision for the café is good , you have some work ahead of you. You will get all the help you need here, good luck with it mate.
Thanks guys, yes a LOT of work ahead of me seeing its my first bike as well. Planning to see how deep the rabbit hole goes and if I pull the head off and clean the bottom end as well. Trying to sort out if its got any problems So the Rec/Reg is dead, i'm going to score a wrecker of ebay and put it back in, and that's about all thats wrong with it actually. I'll post a list of my plans
Looks like a good starting point, fairly easy to work on, tho can be hard to get certain parts for. Btw I'm in Seaford, so if you want a hand I never too far away
Make sure you mark , label and / or bag everything u pull off the bike ..... I use cliplock sandwich bags so I can write what the screws , nuts , bolts or wateva is for ........u may think you will remember but give it a week or two and u will struggle to remember what its for or where it goes. Photos of things before u disassemble them is a good move also. If u unplug any or all of the wiring harness it makes it so much easier if u label what it goes to. Pulling a bike apart is dead easy ..... putting it back together is the challenge.
Just thought I'd post the condition of the bike, the oil and grease flicked up, the general rust and quality of the screws and bolts. This is how it runs:
Most of those screws on the engine covers look still ok ..... but dont try them with a philips driver ..... get that set of JIS drivers and save yourself alot of effort ..... a bit of heat on them will help also if they are really stuck. And add something like this to your socket set ..... its all about leverage with the stuck nuts http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/on...ker-Bar-1-2-Drive-450mm.aspx?pid=215990#Cross
Hey Ben Think bang for buck you did well. The engine runs and all parts are there. Keep one thing in mind when you begin to disassemble your bike, keep all the parts as they have a value and can be sold on. Think Grey has given you the standard procedure for keeping your parts together, trust me, He's right. Have a good look through the manual to acquaint yourself with the information within, you'll be glad you did. See if the manual has a diagram of cable routing, if not pay close attention to yours when removing as they cross over from one side to the other, just a heads up. Think this is going to be an excellent project, we are keen to see your progress. Good luck.
Grey, my mate who is big into bikes reckons I shouldn't buy a set of aluminium screws to replace the originals incase they galvanise with the steel block. Is it a steel block or an aluminium block? And he said something about coper grease? Thanks Phil, the manual turns up in a few days i'll read through it. I'm taking photos as I go and taping the connectors together so I can trace them back. I might get the loom entirely remade at Jaycar, or buy the bits to rewire it.
Hey Ben Just checking, you are aware that there are manuals here on the forum in the RESOURCE section for your bike. As for your wiring loom, if all components are working on the bike you don't need to re wire the bike. Perhaps just double check and clean all connectors.
I might re heat-shrink the cables that work, but if not I want to hide as many electrics as possible, so i'll try and consolidate a few earths so they aren't all over the frame and get rid of the old duct tape that is keeping it all together. Thanks, got the link to the manuals I want to have one in the garage too in case I can't charge my laptop haha
If u want to rebind the loom get some of this ..... it stretches and self sticks to itself and is very thick (compared to just standard electrical tape) and is very flexible ..... I did alot of the Fizzer with it. http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/on...e-49191-Black-25mm-x-3m.aspx?pid=326479#Cross
Good call Grey Import, normal electrical tape will tend to come apart due to petrol vapours and/or heat, leaving a mess. Dry or self amalgamating tape gives a cleaner finish and will last longer.
Couldn't find JIS at supacheap but did find a set of black and decker bits with a REALLY fat phillips. Chucked it in the impact driver and BAM! Screws never stood a chance all popped out after 2-3 days of wd40ing Got an oil pan, going to drain the bike. Started degreasing the outside of the engine and have a new set of shifters and a petrol can so I can drain the tank and remove it. Also going to start removing the wheels and ducktail/airbox. I'll post pics as I go. Anyone know what the block is made of? I don't want to galvanise any screws if I can help it
You wont find JIS anywhere like the auto stores or even Blackwoods .... in fact u will be lucky if anyone behind the counter anywhere even knows what u are talking about. Sorry mate I didnt see your question about the replacement screws .... thats a good question ...any expert metallurgists here ?
Most of the screws on bike engines screw into aluminium alloy. The galvanic thing is not a worry if using plated screws and bolts.