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The Cherry Fizzer

Discussion in 'Yamaha 250cc In-Line 4's' started by Revolver, Sep 2, 2013.

  1. risky

    risky risky

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    YEP.
     
  2. Revolver

    Revolver Big Member Premium Member

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    See I discussed this with my mate and his brother last night, but they ruled it out as the pumps on bikes usually run at 4 or 5 PSI. 6 absolute tops. But it having a but of trouble running ATM. But I think that's a combo of almost no fuel, old fuel and not having a good squirt in god knows how long!

    Plus there is also the issue of the carbies needing a sync and possibly needle and seats.

    But it needs a good squirt to determine that.
     
  3. Revolver

    Revolver Big Member Premium Member

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    Also finished up painting the inside of the fairings. Old:

    [​IMG]

    5! Coats of satin black later:

    [​IMG]

    Betterararer

    Will be touching up the masking tape lines tomorrow.
     
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  4. ruckusman

    ruckusman White Mans Magic Master Premium Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    these things are super sensitive to dirty plugs, the plugs will ground out and not fire with carbon build-up

    I've got a long story about how I know but it's definitely worth checking the spark of each individual plug even if they're almost brand new
     
  5. Phil

    Phil Senior Member Contributing Member

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    I pity your brother if you're wrong!!!!
     
  6. GreyImport

    GreyImport Administrator Staff Member The Chief Contributing Member

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    I was going to spray the inside of my fairings as they look like dog crap but the thought of masking all the edges turned me off

    :cool:

    Do you have the correct rubber grommets with the little metal sleeve and the correct fasteners?
     
  7. Revolver

    Revolver Big Member Premium Member

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    Alrighty K&N oil filter fitted: part non KN303 as seen by the box in the background

    [​IMG]

    Ok just removed the plugs: notice the difference?

    [​IMG]

    That's Number one cylinder (left hand side while seated on the bike). Just remember that these are brand new plugs and only been started a handful of times. Looks like that carb is flooding I reckon.
     
  8. Revolver

    Revolver Big Member Premium Member

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    No I don't I think I can find some more off the old FZR ducktail fairings and possibly buy some if needed. In desperate need of the bolts though.
     
  9. ruckusman

    ruckusman White Mans Magic Master Premium Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    I had three brand new plugs fail, like yours brand new and only started a handful of times, never actually ridden. I chased my tail on that one for way too long.

    Replace the float needle at least on cylinder #1.
    I've got the same stone fuel filter on my bike, when I bought it I asked the guy about the others hanging there, he said the larger ones were only for if you had a fuel pump. The stone fuel filter is zero psi i.e. no restriction whatsoever.

    Anyway it might be a good idea to replace that stone filter with one of the others as it obviously causes a pressure drop and can help to reduce flooding.

    I haven't got a fuel pump, but I'm finding the needle/seat and floats are very easily overwhelmed with fuel pressure.
     
  10. maelstrom

    maelstrom LiteTek Staff Member Premium Member 250cc Vendor Contributing Member

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    Yes cylinder 1 is obviously rich and the others look good
    Possible cause in no particular order

    • Plug lead/cap
    • float needle
    • float seat o-ring (remember we have some loose fits being reported for 250s, due to production tolerances, not o-ring size)
    • needle/needle jet wear
    • choke plunger failing to seat
    • incorrect pilot mixture setting
    cheers
    Blair
     
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  11. Revolver

    Revolver Big Member Premium Member

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    It's definitely something with the carbs. Pull the choke or throttle and it floods and the zorst note changes to really really flat. Both off and it wants to fire so bad but just can't get there. May have figured something out choke off and the throttle turned maybe 5% or less and it fired. That might be the case of just enough fuel to feed the carbies and not enough to flood number one. My mates brother owned a Virago 1100 (that he sold years ago and bought another one last year) and said the 1100 was a temperamental bugger. Only he could start that bike. You had to have the right choke/throttle combination on any particular day and it would fire first time. Anyone else tried it it wouldnt even fire.

    In saying that all of this we had been cranking it awhile until then. That has been the process lately crank, switch off, leave it sit, turn on, crank, rinse and repeat. Finally it fires. This time, we even played with the idle screw. After that when its hot, its virtually a quick push to start it. But I think there is even a clue here. Leave it run for a minute, then the revs rise around 1000 or so, and the idle cleans RIGHT UP. It sounds smooth, clean and throttle response is crisp and instantaneous, revs and drops sooo easy. Until then, its labouring like its flooding. It needs a good squirt to see whats happening on the road.

    Thanks for the info Maelstrom. I will definitely look at those at a later date. Are the last two options able to be played with without a carb removal?

    As much as I want to put this bike on the road, finished, nothing to touch, there is a time/money/practicality issue here. My mate has made it clear he no longer wants it in his garage, and even by my standards its been in there way too long, sort of like the friend who comes to stay the weekend and doesnt leave for six months, Ive had that an know what I am thinking at the 6 month mark. The subtle hints are dropped and directness takes over. The gearbox on my car isn't looking the best, so I am babying it, and there isnt any spare cash floating around in the next few pays after this one. At least not enough for a carby rebuild/sync/replacement. Apart from me wanting the bike on the road this week, I NEED it on the road this week.

    Unfortunately, that's just the way it is at the moment, and I really have no choice but to roll with it.
     
  12. maelstrom

    maelstrom LiteTek Staff Member Premium Member 250cc Vendor Contributing Member

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    More nonsense from grumpy old bloke. This is just bikes in general. Yours seems to have that issue with cylinder No 1. And yes, you should be able to check those last two points without a great deal of drama.

    A high performance 250cc 4 cylinder dohc four stroke, is never going to be an easy engine to tune. It is going to want to be just right. These engines require everything to be just so on the starting cycle; much like a chainsaw.

    Any time you crank an engine over with an electric start you are causing a voltage drop at the coil and therefore at the spark plug; just when you want a strong spark. The engine usually catches when you take your finger off the start button because it has just enough momentum to get in a compression cycle with a full healthy spark. Take notice next time you are trying to start any bike with an electric starter that is proving reluctant to fire. As soon as you take your finger off the button, bang, it starts. Or put jumper leads from a car battery and notice the difference all that juice makes.

    From cold, bikes usually start with no throttle and some choke. When the engine is hot it will not like any choke at all. If you can find a mechanic or someone to set the pilot mixture by ear, instead of number of turns out, then you will be surprised at how much easier it is to start.
    cheers
    Blair
     
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  13. Revolver

    Revolver Big Member Premium Member

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    It's funny you should mention all that, we use a 1900 amp jump starter after the first few tries, and you can definitely hear the difference in turnover speed from that (obviously).

    And also your dead in about the "finger off, best time to start" Everytime I lift my finger it coughs and stops and I think "damn that was close, I'll give it another try". I thought it was just playing with me!

    As for the idle cleanup after a minute or so, my mates FZR 1000 used to do the same. Start a little flat an then the secondaries come in and the note would change. Very similar to that.
     
  14. GreyImport

    GreyImport Administrator Staff Member The Chief Contributing Member

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    Amen to that .... :D


    I would do these things first to at least try to get the thing rideable ..... then look at getting into a carby overhaul.

    I would be testing that battery as its been sitting and then used for multiple startups

    http://2fiftycc.com/index.php?threads/how-do-i-test-my-12-volt-battery-and-charging-system.1794/

    Sort out the EXUP .... if its not setup correctly is not going to help your cause.

    Fit the stock fuel pump ...... I posted the rubber mount this morning.

    Heres what I found from searching the part number for the fairing main fixing bolts/screws .... Im going to just buy some
    M6 x 20mm pan head locally and see what works.

    http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Yamaha-r...-90110-06200-M6-x-20mm-pan-head-/261086621812

    pan head.JPG


    This is the little collar that goes inside the rubber fairing grommet.....I have all the grommets but a few of these are missing ....

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-YAMAHA-...50-SRX250-YFM100-90387-067K6-00-/190390027546

    grommet collar.JPG
     
  15. Revolver

    Revolver Big Member Premium Member

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    Walked in this morning, hit the starter. Fired first time. Though after a few minutes of idle it rises, and stays at 3500 or so. Turn the idle screw down, and that lowers the idle. Turn it off, come back later, hit the starter it fires, idles very low, sometimes conks out, so I up the idle a little bit, rinse and repeat.
     
  16. risky

    risky risky

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    could it be an air leak?
     
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  17. GreyImport

    GreyImport Administrator Staff Member The Chief Contributing Member

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    Until u get the EXUP sorted disconnect the cables and wire the valve fully open
     
  18. Revolver

    Revolver Big Member Premium Member

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    Forgot my phone today so couldn't log on and couldnt fire out questions. Or take progress photos :(:(

    But a wrap of the days events.

    A few minutes after seeing your vid GI, I went out and checked mine. Thats when I noticed that its not the Fuel pump I can hear, it was the exup servo going. Now I pulled out my old 2kr one, grabbed my one off (plugs and the cases ARE different, however internals are exactly the same) pulled them both apart and pulled all the stripped teeth out of the box from mine, (the actual gear was missing) replaced it with the gear from the other, presto! working Exup! Does its little check as per your vid Grey, then start the bike, rev the motor and and it moves with the revs, up and down as it should. WOOHOO.

    GI. You are an absolute legend. I honestly dont know how I could be getting some of the important finicky stuff done without you. A genuine, genuine thanks. :thumb_ups::thumb_ups:

    Its now idling better. Just sits just under 3k, but rev it and it stays idling at 3500. Turn it off, start it again, stays idling until you rev it again. Its not a sticking throttle even pushing it forward doesn't do anything after the rev to die it down.

    Other things completed today:
    Swingarm painted, footpegs and linkages back on, all from being painted, all alloy stuff has come off and is starting to be polished (fun times there!! :( Especially the footpeg guards!) Most bolts have been painted for a bit better presentation. Now its polishing and re-assembly.

    Pics to come. :thumb_ups:
     
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  19. GreyImport

    GreyImport Administrator Staff Member The Chief Contributing Member

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    Awesome ! .... great to hear theres progress :thumb_ups:

    I too originally thought the "whirr , whirr" sound was the fuel pump priming but then realised it was the exup servo positioning itself :D


    Between the pilot screws , idle screw and synced carbs it will probably fix the idling thing .... u could adjust it now but it would be better after the carbs are overhauled/cleaned including new float needles etc.
    You may even see an improvement with the stock fuel pump.

    Will be interesting to see how it goes out on the road

    Keep at it mate .... you will get there !
     
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  20. Revolver

    Revolver Big Member Premium Member

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    Ok. Sitrep.

    So today started with a few bits an pieces tidied up. This included an earth wire near the EXUP box that was dangling. Then went ahead and started to sort out this idle issue. Took off the airbox, played with the throttle cable and sorted out the play in it. Reset the idle screw, and the adjusted the carby adjusting screw (I think that's what it's called. It's the screw next to the carb linkage bracket that the throttle and throttle return cable connect to) That sorted out the idling issue by the looks of it. Started it a few times and reved and seem to come back down to where it should. Fingers crossed this solves this issue until I can afford to overhaul and sync the carbies.

    Took off mudguard ready for the tyre change tomorrow.

    Then spent the rest of the day buffing and polishing. From 3pm till 8:30pm:

    Teaser pic:

    [​IMG]

    Just have the stator cover to finish polishing and the handlebar tree

    I also have new found appreciation of the guys who do this professionally. It's painstaking work!

    So a few more shiny bits to do tomorrow, but of a going over, check, recheck and triple check all my work. Then fit fairings and it's ready for RWC.

    I have also decided to push back the road worthy till Tuesday. Gives me an extra day to work with a little more breathing space, and I can't pick it up till then anyway busy from Friday till Monday.

    Real life calls! :lolsign:
     
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