try cleaning the armature on the starter motor and lubricate the bushes to free up the starter.clean the frame to battery earth.may or may not work but worth a try.
Hi risky, I did that as well. pull them apart, clean and lubricate the starter motor (installing the brush's spring was something btw). I am honestly stuck with what is going on into my bike. Literally check everything and they seem good. This is what I have done for the past week: - Check all the fuses - Check relay and solenoid - Check battery (It is bad but tried it with car battery before I bought a new one) - Check all connection from battery to starter motor for voltage loss (battery terminal, both side of solenoid, cable from battery to starter motor, earthing). The only noticeable voltage loss was from solenoid (0.3V-0.4V), but tried to bypass it and still no good) - Do starter motor load test in a shop as I bought one from them. and so far, this is what I found little bit odd: - Gear behind starter clutch is loose - When I re-positioned gearing from side cover and put the cover on, the bike is able to start on its first try. Use it for a spin for 10 minutes and it cannot be started again after I turned it off. It's making the same noise as the video.
The starter motor solenoid will have a smaller thin wire going to it, this is powered from the starter button near the throttle. The solenoid will have a rubber cover over the wiring, move the rubber cover out of the way. Turn the ignition key on, kill switch to run and try jumping a wire from the positive battery terminal to where the small wire connect's to the starter solenoid, see if it crank's over any quicker. If so then there may be corrosion in the start button contact's inside the switch, or a dirty connection from the battery to the starter button/switch. Have you looked at the inside's of the starter solenoid to see if the contact's need cleaning ?
The chance of 2 stater motors being suspect is a bit unlikely...but when you pulled down the orig did you check the winding's and the gap between the commutator strips is clean the right depth and that the continuity/resistance is ok? https://www.mrcycles.com/page/startermotors also if you havnt tried it yet and have a set of jumper cables..connect the neg battery term to the starter motor base...this will rule out any earth issues with the starting system...
I pulled apart the solenoid and clean all the connection, but not the winding inside the relay as I am afraid to damage it. The winding still does look clean (it is glued and need heat gun to open it). When I cleaned the connection, it reduces the voltage loss from around 1V to 0.3-0.4V. I did clean and grease the starter motor when I pulled it apart, but I didn't do thorough check like the link you sent me. I didn't also check the gap and resistance of the starter motor. What I found after I do that is, the starter motor works again and it spin more aggressive than the one I bought from wreckers. The earthing I did check using multimeter. I basically measure the voltage from any metal (including the starter motor base) and found that there is no voltage loss from few earthing points.
try this- using battery jumper leads connect red to starter where wire from solenoid connects and positive on battery and black lead to starter housing and negative on battery.if problem persists is inside engine case. if problem solved is in the wiring. see how it goes.
You may find the voltage between the earth points is fine, but when you add a lot of current it brakes down If the motor is rubber mounted a lot of ppl run a good separate solid earth to the starter motor...
All, I re-clean all the connection again and did earth test with the bad battery. The engine cranks but doesn't start the engine. So, I assume one of the problem is the bad battery. I will look for a new battery and let you guys know what happens after I replace it. I will also look for new solenoid to eliminate the voltage drop. Thanks
i suggest motobatt for the battery. they tend to last well and i have only had 1 faulty which was replaced free of cost under guarantee.
All, I have found the problem! turns out it isn't the battery. It is the installation of the side cover. The prev owner didn't put any gasket in it (only sealer) and I think something stuck because it doesn't have that extra gap from gasket. I tried to put extra sealer to make it thicker to compensate the extra gap and IT WORKS. Thanks for your help guys. I really do appreciate that.
Need to sort that out. Some starters and drive gears have shims on their shafts to control end float. If yours does then you should take some measurements and ensure that it is correct.
Yes, I am hunting for the gasket now. I will try to have a look and check that out. Thanks for your tips
Just wondering, do I need any permit to modify my headlamp case? I plan to change it to 2 little round case like ducati monster on my bandit. Thanks
I wouldn't think so, especially if they came off another adr complianced production motorbike, or are at least E Marked headlight's Might pay to ask you local inspection centre though just to make sure
Thanks man for that. That is exactly what I want. The bike looks sick. Where did you get it btw? any suggestions?