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My ZXR250A Project Log

Discussion in 'Kawasaki 250cc In-line 4's' started by DougFella, Apr 28, 2013.

  1. DougFella

    DougFella Well-Known Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    Right so it's been a few months, so much work done (will update with separate post) bike should be back together tomorrow but one things BUGGN the hell out of me.

    Already checked with Chris (thanks buddy) but just wanted to check with all. It's the coils to sparks order for the ZXR250A
    IgnitionSystem.png
    This is the A Model part Fiche diagram for the ignition coils. Sequence from left to right. 1 to 1, 2 to 4, 3 to 2, 4 to 3

    This is not what was on the bike when I got it, it was using the ZXR250C setup (1-2 2-3 3-1 4-4) it may explain some issues however it did run. Perhaps at some point a mechanic etc rewired it off a ZXR25oC I don't know.

    Now the thing I can't find on the A model diagrams is the colourcode for the wires running to the respective coils. For the ZXR250C it's Green Lead ignition coils #2, #3 Black leads #1, #4 Red Leads Both coils.

    If a forum member could share any knowledge I may be missing in this department it would be greatly appreciated. Also will I risk damaging the engine if I manage to turn it over with the wrong leads. I've just spent a bit of money on the motor so don't want to get this wrong after months of work.

    PS- I've rewired the spark leads from the ignition coil so I can't go off "The shorter lead goes to 1 and the longer to 4" thing.

    Thanks in advance all.
     
  2. GreyImport

    GreyImport Administrator Staff Member The Chief Contributing Member

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    I think as long as 1 coil fires 1 & 4 and the other 2 & 3 u should be fine.

    I would think the wiring would be similar on similar models but anything is possible.

    Is there someone from the 'A' team able to confirm the wire colour codes?
     
  3. cal

    cal Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    Thant diagram is 100% accurate, i have a an A model and i was only looking at my coils yesterday when replacing resistor caps, as long as the right hand side coil (as if the bike were facing forward) is firing the outer two cylinders, you are laughing.
     
  4. DougFella

    DougFella Well-Known Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    WHOOHOO :neo: finally finished and back together!

    It's been a massive few months I've lost track of time but I am finally finished. After a final few electrical hassles I put everything back on, primed the bike and vhroom, she started up first time like a beauty!

    The bike has basically been totally stripped apart and gone over from the ground up. I can't even remember everything that's been done but here's the basic list.
    * - Second hand replacement

    Stripped and re-lined fuel tank
    New fuel lines
    New fuel filters (In-line and inside carby)
    Cleaned, rebuilt and re-balanced carbies inc new float needles
    Re kit rear brake Master C (Stainless steel sleeve and kit)
    Replacement front disks*
    Replacement front forks*
    Replacement rear shock*
    Replacement stand kill switch*
    Replacement speedometer cable*
    Replacement speedometer unit*
    Rebuild- Rear Tie-Rod and Rocker Arm assembly
    Rebuild- Rear swingarm assembly
    New Sprockets F/R
    New Chain (O-Ring)
    New Cam Chain
    New spark plugs
    New vacuum hoses
    Rebuild/Modified Cam Chain Tensioner
    Valve rework (cleaned and reset to factory specifications)
    Some inner engine adjustment stuff by mechanic (Camshaft etc)
    Clutch rebuild inc new clutch plates
    Custom cooling system gaskets
    Oil and Oil filter (twice haha)
    New brake fluid and full flush
    New Tyres- Pirelli Sports Demons
    Replacement regulator*
    Charging system overhall, rewired from stator to regulator
    New Battery
    New fuses
    Electrical overhaul (Clean connections and custom loom mounting)

    All nuts, bolts, screws and **** back to factory torque (some loctite) and a lot of other adjusting, tinkering, breaking and fixing and swearing etc

    It's certainly been a lot of fun, a great learning experience and I now have such a great appreciation for what a truly amazing bit of machinery the ZXR is.

    A few more minor fixes over the next few days and then it'll be off to register the bike :dance2: EXCITED

    After that I'll have to figure out what to do with the farings (buy new or get repaired), completely rebuild both the front and rear brakes (for safety), buy some new gear and have fun.

    Will post some photo's and perhaps a video soon :D
     
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  5. cal

    cal Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    mate, amazing work, that's a serious rebuild, i cant wait to see the pics in detail!!!
     
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  6. GreyImport

    GreyImport Administrator Staff Member The Chief Contributing Member

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    Yea good effort there mate ..... best part is she started up first go :thumb_ups:
     
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  7. Th3_Huntsman

    Th3_Huntsman Senior Member Contributing Member

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    Good work doug! Can't wait to see it in action :D
     
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  8. Phil

    Phil Senior Member Contributing Member

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    OK, seriously we must give serious attention to Doug, he will shortly enter the phase where he has nothing left to do and this is a very daunting time, depression can set in. Ok, no further BS, this is when you start enjoying the fruits of your labour, and cruising down the road on your trusted steed, huge satisfaction for all your hard work with a big :) on your dial.:thumb_ups: Can't wait to see some pictures or even better a video, hey we deserve it too, well done mate, huge effort.:D
     
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  9. risky

    risky risky

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    TOP EFFORT
     
  10. DougFella

    DougFella Well-Known Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    Thanks guys This bike I swear!

    I'm having a final problem though! Should be able to resolve it but I'll post it anyway for others who may be interested.

    Anyway I think it's down to a bad fuel tap but would be good to get other opinions. Bike starts fine, idles fine and runs pretty ok for the a few hundred metres. After this is studders when attempting to hold cruising RPM and has a lack of power under throttle and also after pushing it for a K or so it just conks out and wont start without the choke. I removed an in-line filter I had on between the carbies and the tank and this made a slight improvement.

    When I stop the bike and leave it for a few mins, wallah, starts first time no choke no throttle! :mad:

    Now the fuel tap is crap. I have already ordered a brand new one from japan at the cost of a kidney (it needs replacing anyway). I'm hoping it's just that the vacuum tap doesn't work well/at all and the bikes running out of fuel stored in the float bowl.

    My only other concern is that this could be a Carby problem, although after clean/rebuild I had new float needles all within the 15mm +/- factory range.

    EST DELIVERY next Wednesday :aggressive: guess I'll sit around till then!
     
  11. kds1

    kds1 Active Member Contributing Member

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    if your worid about it not fireing all cylinders start bike cold and let it idle lightly touch each one of the 4 exhusts from the manifold and test the heat if one is colder than others that cylinders not fireing be carefull

    you can rebuild fuel tap order thease parts from local kawi dealer $17 i had a leak in fueltap and now reco fueltap
    43049-1066
    92055-1419
    92055-1112
     
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    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 26, 2013
  12. cal

    cal Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    floats are 13mm +/-1mm, the they are 15mm the bike is running very lean
     
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  13. DougFella

    DougFella Well-Known Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    I may have to have another look at the floats then. 15mm if I remember correctly was wha they were on, that was many months ago now though :(.

    I thought about repairing the tap however it's missing a few non-essential components and the amount of wear on many of the internals from... well years of neglect, is rather bad so I just bought another one.
     
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  14. GreyImport

    GreyImport Administrator Staff Member The Chief Contributing Member

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    The Fizzer was doing a similar thing ..... a few blocks away then nothing untill left for a period of time ...... probably about the amount of the float bowls !

    Make sure the tank breather is working .... if a vacuum forms then the fuel will struggle ..... when the bike dies open the fuel cap and see if theres an air rush ..... or ride with the cap "open" (obviously not with a full tank) and see if it dies or not.
     
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  15. DougFella

    DougFella Well-Known Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    Adjusted float bowls to bang on 13mm, worked a charm the bikes run smooth now and doesn't conk out. Not sure if I'll have to re balance the carbs at all after the adjustment?

    Thanks for the pointers guys!
     
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  16. cal

    cal Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    i did my carbs and floats yesterday, (2 cans of Nulon carby cleaner later!) :neo:

    and my ZXR seems very happy at 13mm bang on also with all pilot screws at 2,1/2 turns out.

    also, did your o-rings on the needle seat look ok? along with the steel cone filter and float needle itself? if they are worn out, the carbs could end up in a constant state of flood.
     
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  17. Phil

    Phil Senior Member Contributing Member

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    I did the needles on the Bandit, they looked perfect to me until someone pointed out that the tips were like steel rather than rubber. Sure enough the new ones remedy the issue.
     
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  18. DougFella

    DougFella Well-Known Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    Yea one of the first things I did was actually rebuild the Carbies. It's got new needles and the O-rings there are pretty good. Just that I set the original settings at 15mm not 13mm :oops:

    But you do make a good point.
     
  19. kds1

    kds1 Active Member Contributing Member

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    Carnt wait to c it lot of work well done
     
  20. DougFella

    DougFella Well-Known Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    This son of a #!#!@#!@#!@#!@# bike.

    On the plus side of things I got one of these pulled out of the back of a storeroom in Japan. :Drool: brand new parts

    Tap box.jpg Fuel tap.jpg
    Tap.jpg

    ANYWAY on the other side of things. Every dam time I get on this bike for a test ride it changes. I am still having problems with running. Thought the float bowl adjustment would fix it but it changed it's mind today. Still having the same problem as before so I pulled out the spark plugs to see whats going on.
    Cylinder 2,3,4 plug fine
    Cylinder 1 plug..... It's blacker than the night sky.
    BAD PLUG.jpg

    It's not oil on the plug it looks to me to be carbon. Does it mean it's running too rich?? Anyway it's only one plug.

    This is how I described the engine problem to my mechanic.

    "It starts fine, idles fine for the first few minutes. You drive down the driveway (long driveway) and it's fine in first gear get to the end go for a ride. It struggles to hold cruising RPM sometimes. Sometimes it fails to have decent acceleration. Sometimes it bogs down around 8-10k. Very very rarely you get a small backfire/pop on the down-run. Sometimes after a run it just turns off and you need to start it with the choke. Etc Etc"

    The issue is all of these problems don't occur all the time, one day there will be one problem, some days all of them, sometimes it seems to be fixed!

    My mechanic suggested Grey's theory of blocked tank breather. So I tried a run with low fuel and tank lid held slightly open... no difference. (Plus i also cleaned an already blocked tank breather)

    I'm running out of ideas here! Does anyone in brisbane have a spare set or carbies they would be willing to lend me or sell?? This has to be a carby issue as I've legitimately fixed/replaced every other possible candidate!

    PS- Forgot to add. It doesn't hold an idle well. Once it warms up the idle does not drop back to 1.5-2k rpm without constantly adjusting the idle adjuster. It does this every time
     

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