Na I don't have either, bike didn't come with them. Was gonna find a place that could make them or use some old throttle cables or something Sent from my SM-G973F using Tapatalk
I actually had to disconnect mine the other week to remove the exhaust to haul the bike onto the back of the ute solo. Not to dissuade you, however the sheaths are pretty specific, there's the metal sleeves at the exhaust end and quite long adjusters to get the cable length and tension just right at the servo motor end I mistakenly thought that motorcyclespares warehouse had them, perhaps I was thinking of the speedo cable, anyway Are you having difficulty finding some locally? Obviously in the UK - so only for illustration purposes https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Exup-valve-Cable-Set-Yamaha-YZF-R1-1000-1998-2001/142979703286
Will the R1 cables fit? There is some here I'd rather buy them than dodge up some myself, would rather not meld cables to the exhaust. Sent from my SM-G973F using Tapatalk
Good question, they are a different part number, a wee bit longer and you'd be OK, any shorter however I suspect that you might not get them to connect properly Check these - easy to see the cable ends, which look identical https://yambits.co.uk/yzf-exup-cable-1998-2001-p-78537.html Getting a pair from a wrecker is probably doable for any number of bikes fitted with the EXUP during that era and you have that length measurement kindly supplied by @GreyImport
Sweet that would make it a bit easier than trying to find the exact cables off a 3ln. Will give the wreckers a call tomorrow and track some down Sent from my SM-G973F using Tapatalk
Yeah, there's a huge number of bikes that had them, I've seen some other pics of shorter ones for a later model R1, that had a right angle in the sleeve end, obviously not suitable, but think they came in during the 80's and that set above is for an '88-01 R1 - lots of bikes in there to choose from
Probably not much help ... I didnt realise how much 'unrouting' of the harness I had to do to get the front off in one unit (Im replacing the front for drag racing so no lights and new cowling ) The main part clips along that bottom bar Main thing is to make sure turning the bars fully, wont be affected
Sweet, got the center stripes done, not my best work by a long shot but will probably redo it after about a year anyway. Main thing is how it turns not how it looks for now at least. But tank us all fully plumbed in with all new rubber fuel lines up to the pump and a new steel braided fuel line to the carbs.once I clean up the exhaust I can turn it over for the first time after the shims were done. Sent from my SM-G973F using Tapatalk
Interesting read. Next time you are delving round doing shims or have the head off I suggest you measure the valve spring installed height. I've measured a few and EVERY singe one has been overlength. If the bike is reluctant to rev hard, apart from fuel or ignition, I would suggest valve float. It doesn't end well if you keep pressing.
I took the time to read your thread, that was a interesting insight those two circular clean spots on the top of the piston, it's a really good arguument for basically blueprinting the entire head when doing any work I do know that Yamaha FZR250, 400 and perhaps others from that era have a reputation for valves forming a tulip shape and losing clearance I wish there was an off the shelf alternative as replacements, however there aren't and I'VE LOOKED
It did have 1500 worth of work done to the head (including all new valves and springs) when it was originally pulled apart so I hope I don't have to pull the head again any time soon. Fresh rubber just arrived and looks good on the rear with a new sproket. Only got a paddock stand for the rear so rigged up a dodgy A-frame to lift the front. It seems sturdy enough. Sent from my SM-G973F using Tapatalk
And rear brakes all cleaned thoroughly with new pads and fresh paint, just waiting on the new master and can bleed it good. Sent from my SM-G973F using Tapatalk
Just started it first time after doing the shims and sounds so much better, just gotta tune the carbs. Sent from my SM-G973F using Tapatalk
Nice work, carb sync look's like it need's doing. Carb 1 look's like it's the worst, and carb 4 is a bit off too
Yeah I figured it would need a balance, watched a video of how to do it with glass bottles and some tube. Gotta do it on the cheap. Still waiting on some parts on back order before she can go on a spin Sent from my SM-G973F using Tapatalk
New levers just arrived but can't figure out how to route the clutch cable that it won't kink on the steering and won't be super tight from too many bends Sent from my SM-G973F using Tapatalk
It come's from the lever, around the ignition barrel and key through the cable guide, and down through the second guide, then behind the r/h engine mount or through it and then to the adjuster
Cheers brother, will try it out tomorrow after I pick up the brake lines. Then tune the carbs, fix the radiator and wait for my air filter to arrive and it's ready for a road worthy. Sent from my SM-G973F using Tapatalk