Hi frankster, I hate to be the bearer of bad news but your in a world of pain buddy, do not attempt to remove this bearing with a puller as it has a c clip type retainer running around the outter race, the motor has to be split into two to remove this bearing, I will try edit a picture now to help you understand and upload.
crank cases split...same as the gsxr for the same problem..wish there was a quick fix..I've not found one but if you do please let on all you know..the grim reaper but I for one are wishing u find a better way....try this first though as it hasn't failed me yet..oxcyacetalane burner to the cases..heat up just enough to give yield..immediately place ice on the output shaft (about 60 secs but you'll hear it ping or tick as the metals contract)..drive a soft punch into the back bearing face and shock free..offending bearing should just drop out as its compression/inference fit..i'm not 100pc sure this will work on your engine but check the schematics and as inference fit this bearing was pressed in by the factory..other option select neutral run it till the fan cuts in then do the same..cool the output shaft with ice.. what your looking for is the maximum differential between the two to aid removal..wish I could be of more help and I don't know the ins and outs of the zxr 250..yet but basic mechanics i'd give it a go prior to splitting the engine..min four or five hours on the bench all told..I for one will be watching this thread with aplomb..good luck and please let us know how you get on.. Cheers si
Yep, I came to the same conclusion, looks like the cases have to come apart for that bearing to be replaced, I checked the part number for the seal I have and its a seal for the gear change shaft
Hi guys I am sure it needs to be split do not try bearing pullers, heat ect. as it will cause more damage then has already been done, if you refer to my pics you will see the type of bearing and clip, each side of the case has a small grove in it to accomodate for the clip, it prevents the bearing from just coming out. One thing i'd check would be the gearbox shaft for straightness once out, and the housing the bearing,seal ect run in, as once that bearing let go that shaft would have went nuts!
Hey Mapo. Thanks for clarifying that. I had a mate come over last night (he knows a bit about bikes) to help me try and get my ZXR drag bike going. While he was at my place I mentioned the bearing issue with my street bike and heating the case to extract it. He said "engine out & split the case". I was going to try and heat and pull tonight, but since you've confirmed what my mate said, I'll be pulling the engine out and doing the split. I was curious how a mechanic would change this bearing as it's in an almost inaccessible spot and it looks like you have to come at it from behind. It now makes sense to me why I can put a sealed bearing unit in to replace the damaged one. I couldn't for the life of me see how anyone could remove a sealed bearing from inside the engine case. Thanks Mapo, Simon and Chris, you guy's have saved me a lot of frustration and put my mind at rest...now, if only I can get this drag bike running! In case you're wondering, my mate couldn't get it running either, but at least he showed me how to do a few tests and confirmed I hadn't done anything wrong. Time to stick it on the trailer and take it to an auto electrician. Cheers
Mapo, Yep, could be knackered. I did catch it pretty quick and didn't ride it any further. I'll pull the engine this weekend and see how bad it is. Have never split an engine before, so will be exciting new thing to do/learn. Cheers
Chris, let me know $$$ for seal and RHS switchblock when you have a moment. Also, can you give me access to DOCS area and I'll stick $5 bucks in your account. Thanks Frank
If you fit a sealed bearing, how is the transmission oil going to get to it to lubricate it? Fit an open bearing and the correct seal.
Would this be the case with all 'internal bearings' that are in an oil bath? ... as opposed to say headstock and wheel bearings that have to obviously rely on their own source of lube.
Agreed with murdo, bearings suit different applications, this deffenetly needs a open bearing for the lubrication.
Some bearings aren't sealed but need packing with grease due to no other source of lube but can't be sealed
If that black circular object in the picture, on the red checker plate, is the one in question. I hate to say it but that is an oil seal, not a bearing dust cover seal. With luck it will have a set of numbers on it eg. 43 - 35 - 6 indicating the seal size. Bearing suppliers should have one available. I would suggest when heating the inner race of the bearing, heat only one small section across the race. that way the race will expand in one place and come loose. If you heat the entire race it will all expand and actually get tighter on the shaft. How do I know this, 30 years as a maintenance fitter, fixing broken machines.
Hey Murdo, That makes perfect sense to me. And DAVE H is right about that black thing in the picture...it is an oil seal. What continues to confuse me is why is this oil seal NOT in the parts schematic? These drawings are normally spot on and for it not to be there worries me. Can anyone enlighten me? This is an A model zxr engine and the schematic is for the A model. Is it possible a mechanic has at some stage decided an oil seal should go between the sprocket and the bearing? Is it possble that the oil seal has contributed to the bearing failure? Would the rotating part of the bearing be rubbing against the seal? Did the PO put it there because the bearing was starting to show signs of wear? DAVE, I'm going to pull the engine and split it to get to the bearing. Too many people have said not to try and pull it with or without heat. What do you think? Frank
PO put a new timing chain in it 3 months before i bought it (saw the paperwork). Will check valves clearances.