I bought one on the off chance it would fit...didn't. But, I can use it as the basis for making the right tool with a clutch spacer.
I have done similar for other bikes. Just drill a couple of holes through a steel and friction plate then bolt them together. Pop them in the basket and put the bike in gear. Then either jam the rear wheel/ foot on brake (if chain connected) or jam the front sprocket with a piece of copper tubing. In truth, the better option is to borrow a rattle gun or take it to the local garage ! It'll come off no bother.
Also .... Just in case you didn't know, the most common reason for output shaft bearing failure is running an overtight chain
As TarmacSurfer suggested the rattle gun will get the nut off without any bother, but keep working on your tool as you will need it for reassembly. cheers Blair
Thanks Blair & TarmacSurfer. I'm just about to split the block, but since this is new ground for me, I was wondering "how" do you do that? The manual talks about points to wedge, but I'd prefer to have someone who has done tell me to... I was going to try using this area (arrow) to split the block, but don't want to get it wrong. Any help is greatly appreciated. Frank
No experience with this model, but cases are usually held firm located by their dowels. Use a small nylon hammer and work your way around gently tapping on well supported areas. If it seems stuck in one area it is more than likely that you missed a bolt. Never put anything between the cases to pry them apart.
That's the important bit ..you'll shag the crankcase mating surface. Nylon hammer or normal hammer and a wooden drift works well.
Guys, More stupid questions... 1. Do I have to remove the flywheel before splitting the block? 2. Do I have to remove the cylinders or disconnect them from the crank before splitting the block? Last question has me tossed. I can't get my head around how the engine can be split when the pistons/connecting rods are still connected to the crank. Thanks for your patience. Frank
Hi, It would be best to remove the flywheel. I think you means pistons, rather than cylinders ? If so, you can leave them connected. Split the cases and unbolt the crank. Just ensure you keep the bearing caps in their respective positions.
Well, nearly 2 years later and I've finally managed to get my ZXR bearing issue addressed. Ended up getting a replacement bearing from Kawasaki. Checked opposite bearing for wear and all seemed fine. Will do valve clearances while I have the engine out. Should be up and running for summer. Thanks to all who helped out with this one.