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Bearing puller?

Discussion in 'Kawasaki 250cc In-line 4's' started by Frankster, May 3, 2014.

  1. Frankster

    Frankster Grey Pride...Adventure before Dementia Staff Member Premium Member Ride and Events Crew

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  2. tarmacsurfer

    tarmacsurfer Well-Known Member

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    I have done similar for other bikes.
    Just drill a couple of holes through a steel and friction plate then bolt them together. Pop them in the basket and put the bike in gear. Then either jam the rear wheel/ foot on brake (if chain connected) or jam the front sprocket with a piece of copper tubing.

    In truth, the better option is to borrow a rattle gun or take it to the local garage ! It'll come off no bother.
     
  3. tarmacsurfer

    tarmacsurfer Well-Known Member

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    Nope, it will just pull out. Might need a bit of gentle persuasion.
     
  4. tarmacsurfer

    tarmacsurfer Well-Known Member

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    Also .... Just in case you didn't know, the most common reason for output shaft bearing failure is running an overtight chain
     
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  5. maelstrom

    maelstrom LiteTek Staff Member Premium Member 250cc Vendor Contributing Member

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    As TarmacSurfer suggested the rattle gun will get the nut off without any bother, but keep working on your tool as you will need it for reassembly.
    cheers
    Blair
     
  6. Frankster

    Frankster Grey Pride...Adventure before Dementia Staff Member Premium Member Ride and Events Crew

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    Thanks Blair & TarmacSurfer. I'm just about to split the block, but since this is new ground for me, I was wondering "how" do you do that? The manual talks about points to wedge, but I'd prefer to have someone who has done tell me to...

    I was going to try using this area (arrow) to split the block, but don't want to get it wrong. Any help is greatly appreciated.

    Frank
     

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  7. maelstrom

    maelstrom LiteTek Staff Member Premium Member 250cc Vendor Contributing Member

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    No experience with this model, but cases are usually held firm located by their dowels. Use a small nylon hammer and work your way around gently tapping on well supported areas. If it seems stuck in one area it is more than likely that you missed a bolt.
    Never put anything between the cases to pry them apart.
     
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  8. tarmacsurfer

    tarmacsurfer Well-Known Member

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    That's the important bit :) ..you'll shag the crankcase mating surface.
    Nylon hammer or normal hammer and a wooden drift works well.
     
  9. Frankster

    Frankster Grey Pride...Adventure before Dementia Staff Member Premium Member Ride and Events Crew

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    Guys,

    More stupid questions...

    1. Do I have to remove the flywheel before splitting the block?
    2. Do I have to remove the cylinders or disconnect them from the crank before splitting the block?

    Last question has me tossed. I can't get my head around how the engine can be split when the pistons/connecting rods are still connected to the crank.

    Thanks for your patience.

    Frank
     

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  10. tarmacsurfer

    tarmacsurfer Well-Known Member

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    Hi,
    It would be best to remove the flywheel.
    I think you means pistons, rather than cylinders ? If so, you can leave them connected. Split the cases and unbolt the crank. Just ensure you keep the bearing caps in their respective positions.
     
  11. Frankster

    Frankster Grey Pride...Adventure before Dementia Staff Member Premium Member Ride and Events Crew

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    Sorry, yes, I did mean pistons. Thanks TS. I will take flywheel off and try to split cases.
     
  12. Frankster

    Frankster Grey Pride...Adventure before Dementia Staff Member Premium Member Ride and Events Crew

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    Well, nearly 2 years later and I've finally managed to get my ZXR bearing issue addressed. Ended up getting a replacement bearing from Kawasaki. Checked opposite bearing for wear and all seemed fine. Will do valve clearances while I have the engine out. Should be up and running for summer. Thanks to all who helped out with this one.

    Shaft Bearing.jpg
     
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