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Project Linkin's FZR250R 3LN3

Discussion in 'Your 250cc Projects' started by Linkin, Jan 31, 2015.

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  1. Linkin

    Linkin The Mechanic Premium Member Contributing Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    I plan to have a go at it. Simple enough in theory.

    Adjust carb #1 rich/lean until idle rises, the adjust main idle back down. Repeat for all other carbs until you receive a consistent idle.

    But I'll probably do a full rebuild and use up the keyster carb parts before doing a tune. Happy with better fuel economy and smoother riding for now.
     
    • Like Like x 2
    Linkin, Mar 20, 2015
    #301
  2. Linkin

    Linkin The Mechanic Premium Member Contributing Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    My Bike:
    FZR250R 3LN6
    So my coolant is still boiling even after short rides (12KM's to work etc)

    After googling it could be a few things

    Radiator cap
    Head gasket
    Cracked/warped head from overheating
    Cooling system blockage
    Thermostat

    We can rule out thermostat and blockage because we replaced the coolant and flushed the cooling system without event. Haven't replaced the radiator cap. Hopefully it is not a cracked head or bad head gasket... there are a few signs to look for, but we didn't see any... No oil in the coolant. No caramel sludge either.

    Radiator cap not sealing will cause a lower boiling temp for the coolant. Thermstat was replaced last weeked.

    May just flush the coolant again and see how I go
     
    Linkin, Mar 23, 2015
    #302
  3. Willrcr15

    Willrcr15 Well-Known Member

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    Linkin, sorry I missed you guy's yesterday, great time on the track, missed the drivers brief & think I broke some rules !
    I'm getting a bit late on this thread, but what sort of condition is the pump in? sounds like it mightn't be pumping the coolant around, one of the trucks was doing the same thing & we found the impella was completely eroded away, she still ran ok & did no damage, didn't do any good either. Check the impella isn't spinning on the shaft.
     
    Last edited: Mar 23, 2015
    Willrcr15, Mar 23, 2015
    #303
  4. Grasshopper

    Grasshopper Well-Known Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    Yes, I think yo might have to check the water pump.. I don't think it's that difficult....
     
    Grasshopper, Mar 23, 2015
    #304
  5. risky

    risky risky

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    take the radiator cap off and top up. do it when cold.let idle till warms up and look for bubbles in radiator. keep topping up.if bubbles then head gasket.also as will said check impellor blades as that could also be the problem.i have seen corroded impellor blades and cracked plastic ones and impellors loose on the shaft.
     
    risky, Mar 23, 2015
    #305
  6. risky

    risky risky

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    ALSO CHECK THE RADIATOR CAP RUBBER SEAL. caps are relatively cheap.
     
    risky, Mar 23, 2015
    #306
  7. Grasshopper

    Grasshopper Well-Known Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    Are you still getting bubbles in the overflow tank? @risky could this be the head gasket?
     
    Grasshopper, Mar 23, 2015
    #307
  8. Moo

    Moo Plodge Racing!!!

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    is your fan kicking in?

    as the others said check the water pump.......
     
    Moo, Mar 23, 2015
    #308
  9. risky

    risky risky

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    bubbles mean air in system. that could be due to faulty radiator cap,head gasket or cracked head.are the bubbles there when motor is cold which would say compression leak. or when hot? could be in order---faulty radiator cap------cheapest fix.head gasket---easy for you blokes,-water expansion when hot---is the overflow losing water or when the motor cools down is the level going back to original.corroded head?well it has to come off to replce head gasket so can be checked then.if the bike had this trouble and went to tamworth it should have seized before then so replce radiator cap first.cheapest and quickest to find out.
     
    risky, Mar 23, 2015
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  10. risky

    risky risky

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    also check fan to see if solid on shaft.
     
    risky, Mar 23, 2015
    #310
  11. Linkin

    Linkin The Mechanic Premium Member Contributing Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    The fan works fine, I've seen it in action.

    Before I left tamworth we lost some coolant due to a split hose, drained the system and refilled, didn't refill the overflow. Made sure the radiator was full. Had a fair bit of air and trouble filling all the way due to the split hose.

    Checked the coolant level about 1.5 weeks ago and topped off the rad with blue coolant. Did not check/refill overflow bottle. Need to buy some more coolant.

    Will run the bike when cold and check for bubbles at the filler cap.
     
    Linkin, Mar 23, 2015
    #311
  12. Linkin

    Linkin The Mechanic Premium Member Contributing Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    Hmmm... what's everyone opinion on these symptoms:

    Boiling coolant - Fan/Thermostat are OK
    Coolant loss (very little)
    Oil loss (few hundred mil's)
    Smoking from crankcase breather (at idle)
     
    Linkin, Mar 25, 2015
    #312
  13. Willrcr15

    Willrcr15 Well-Known Member

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    Do a compression test, seems like maybe blow by the rings.
    Is the exhaust dirty, damp dirty like there's oil misting out.
    Could be a stuck ring.
    Have you checked the water pump yet, that's what I'd bet on for the coolant issue.
    You said the water & oil aren't contaminated with each other so don't think the worst just yet.
    She may just need a hone & some new rings, & a new water pump.
     
    Willrcr15, Mar 25, 2015
    #313
  14. Joker

    Joker See "about me" for contact details. Contributing Member

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    Leaky valves or blow by re: gases leaking
    Water pump or cooling system blockage re: boiling coolant
    Evaporation re: coolant loss
    Ring or bore issues re: oil burning

    The boiling coolant I'd be the most worried about as that has the potential to write off the engine if it overheats. The others are manageable, signs that work needs to be done though.
     
    Joker, Mar 25, 2015
    #314
  15. Grasshopper

    Grasshopper Well-Known Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    Yeah, check that water pump ASAP.... as someone here mentioned... could be the impeller spinning on the shaft - hence - no water flow... I'd get onto it pronto...
     
    Grasshopper, Mar 25, 2015
    #315
  16. risky

    risky risky

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    that was me. this motor needs a top end rebuild but while at it do new bottom end bearings too.check valve stems for wear, replce stem seals, hone bore and re ring,new con rod bearins and mains, check or replace water pump.
     
    risky, Mar 25, 2015
    #316
  17. Linkin

    Linkin The Mechanic Premium Member Contributing Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    The radiator cap seals fine (checked it) and I only lost very little coolant. The temp gauge is not hitting the red. But the tunnels, hot weather / traffic / slow moving the temp gauge gets above halfway. Usually sits on the screw on the gauge face or less when on open road. Bike doesn't heat up super quick but will slowly rise up to temp. The needle has never hit the red as I watch it like a hawk.

    Of course the boiling is bad and something is causing it. Could be bad radiator cap still, causes lower boiling temp. Blown gasket, cracked or warped head means overpressure/overtemp on cooling system and low on power (definitely not low on power)

    I'm due to pull the carbs off this weekend to rebuild them, I will have a look at the water pump at the same time.

    You are right risky it's not the most prime example this engine, @Grasshopper 's bike sounds a lot healther including the exhaust note. But he has an open pipe on his. Mine doesn't appear to be a stock one (stock one has 3LN-14711 or similar etched into it, mine doesn't). Getting a new exhaust anyway.

    As for top end and bottom end rebuild, I'd have to save money and buy parts. Lots of time of going DIY. Even more money if paying someone to do it and of course no guarantee that a shop will get everything right.

    Really hope its just the water pump or a head gasket...
     
    Linkin, Mar 25, 2015
    #317
  18. Mclaren

    Mclaren Well-Known Member Contributing Member

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    Just because cap seals doesn't mean it holding right pressure spend the couple of dollars and get new one and if not the issue no big deal should be able to get one from repco or somewhere that are used on something else
     
    • Like Like x 1
    Mclaren, Mar 25, 2015
    #318
  19. Linkin

    Linkin The Mechanic Premium Member Contributing Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    You're right I'll source a new cap as well
     
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    Linkin, Mar 25, 2015
    #319
  20. GreyImport

    GreyImport Administrator Staff Member The Chief Contributing Member

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    New cap , check the water pump ..... simple things first

    cap will have a pressure rating stamped on it

    mine is a 0.9 Bar
     
    Last edited: Mar 25, 2015
    GreyImport, Mar 25, 2015
    #320
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