Just work out the correct diameter and buy "O ring" cord... got the correct circumference and then glue it with Superglue... easy as...
Asked nicely at work and was allowed to wash the bike before going home on Friday... man, those rims were FILTHY! But at least she's somewhat clean now... Went out today and got a cheap multimeter, some spark plugs (non iridium), some 1mm ID hose to replace the split one from airbox to vacuum valve. Pulled fairings, tank, airbox off completely. Airbox to carb seals have swollen and will need to be replaced. All the vacuum/fuel lines look fine. Dropping the radiator down to do the plugs was a major pain in the bum. The plug caps themselves were also difficult to remove and get back in... the trick is to pull/push and twist. Old plugs looked ok, not fouled or too rich/lean, but worn down a bit. Lacked a spark plug socket but found one in the original tool kit under the riders seat The bike has a VIN sticker on the left side of headstock with "European thunder down under tour 2000" with the bike's details, and a standard VIN plate riveted on the right side. Not sure what that means. Discovered the exhaust can is missing a bolt at the flange and so is leaking. I want to replace the exhaust anyway but I'll see if I can find a matching bolt at work. Adjusted front suspension to standard settings in service manual Anyway, bike starts a lot easier now and seems to be holding a better idle... it still needs a carby balance Pictures/video once I get my internet sorted.
Also cam chain tensioner looks shiny and new. Someone has already done it. Noise disappears when in gear at low revs and clutch engaged. Disengage clutch and the noise returns.
Those plug caps screw down onto the plug, the wires should also be attached to the plug caps and cannot be pulled on or apart because once broken you wont be able to get back into them to reattach the wires.
Zxrs are known for the clutch basket rattle, I dont know what really causes the rattle,my theory is that when the clutch is disengaged the thrust bearing & pushrod vibrate against the clutch spring plate, I like to keep my clutch adjusted fairly tight which I think helps because my rattle is minimal, I also clean the plates yearly by degreasing then inoxing them
Thanks Sharky I'll keep that in mind. When I place an order for parts I'll get an extra airbox gasket for you Regarding the plug leads, on 2 of them the cable pulled out of the plug, and all of them are pretty well corroded, so will get replaced. For now I twisted them back into the plugs... didn't seem to make much difference Managed to get some pictures up. In the wash bay Definitely a Malaysian bike Air filter Airbox seals Reg/reg plug OK Tensioner looks new Radiator dropped down
I rode around for two years with 4 broken plug leads, it works but not ideal with the odd misfire here & there when it gets hot or the spark has to jump too far after hitting a pothole. When I wanted to replace mine I found out real quick its not so easy, the original plug was Nichiwa SD05FMG & it came with leads attached, NGK bought them out & all the caps available now dont seem to cover the plug hole to keep water out or there too short etc,theres a SD05FM which is not suitable, the closest fit that might work was a SD05FMGC, in the end I got a perfect set from a wreckers and swore to look after them, he has more if you end up wanting to replace them. @Adam Giles got a set from megazip in the UK for his zxr, maybe he can shed some light on what he used.
What is the od of the rubber seal part of the spark plug cap ? Might be easier and better doing a cop conversion ?
Cant seem to post pics, dont have file extension? The cap seal part is 25mm wide, overall length 10.5cm with 85mm long below the cap seal
On my Denso cop coil's, the rubber seal is 25mm diameter with 3x 1mm lip's around the outside (27mm o/d overall) There is 78mm below the bottom of the rubber seal, and the rubber seal is 26mm tall
You just need to find out the resistance of the primary and secondary's on your ignition coil's and match some cop's up, mine were only $55 or something like that inc post Then make up an adapter loom like i did
Thanks Sharky, I just ordered 2 of them along with some litetek carb bits. Aftermarket exhaust is on the slow boat from China... TYGA one was too pricey for me. A fairing kit in the silver scheme down the line should have this bike looking tops.
Still without proper internet for a few days, but managed to get this video up. Opinions wanted on the various noises.
Those factory CANS are a real buzzkill,wait to you put your new pipe on you wont be rev bombing in an underground carpark . The camchain does maybe sound a little clunky but its always hard to tell in vids. Have you checked the chain for slack yet? recommend strongly & also check for rubbing on rocker cover & reset the tensioner also. Get use to lowering that radiatorI replaced my rad bolts with allen keys much easier.
I hope so! I haven't had it apart yet... When I get all the bits together I'll do it all at once. No not yet, waiting for the carby bits to arrive.
I think engine sounds really good, as Sharky eluded to, there is a cam chain noise there and you would do well to replace it and do your clearances at the same time. After watching that, I think I want another ZXR