Now about those high speed wheelies - this is the internet so certain rules apply - so pics or it didn't happen
Im still practising holding the camera , clutch and throttle and waving to the crowd at the same time
No road test as yet .... just more problems Put the airbox and tank on and as much as it starts better and seems to run better it still has the 'no rev' syndrome every so often I think I should have used the keyster spacers on the needles , not the originals .... keyster needles are thinner so the original spacers are a little 'loose' Also I now have no parkers/tail lights ..... parkers flick on + brake light on when u use the front or rear brake Headlights work but no tail light then either .... of course I have now covered the main wiring and junctions by putting on the airbox and tank ......
Yea Id say Ive disturbed something doing the carbs or when doing the ignition as the plug for it is amongst all that bundle next to the thermo housing
Well it has LED tail and parker lights ... so I thought I would put in normals in the tail in case they were causing a problem (even though they have been in there for a couple of years with no dramas ) Now the parkers dont light up when u activate the brakes .... but I still have no parkers/tail lights at all .... Im not sure wats worse .... carbys or electrical
With the led tail light flickering, that'd be a faulty resistor or dry soldered joint in the led bulb. The led's require only about 1/8 the current a normal incandescant bulb need's, so it might be why the led bulb was working (the flickering is another issue) and incandescant bulb not I reckon there's a high resistance/corroded joint somewhere, if you can look at where all your wire's go into the back of the terminal's at each joint, somewhere there'll be some green or black copper wire's that need to be cut shorter and new terminal's fitted, or the length of wire to be replaced and fitted with new terminal's
Apart from it taking 20 minutes to start today , it ran well and didnt stall or chug turning at intersections and roundabouts ..... plenty of punch and hit redline pretty damn quickly in 2nd.
Still no parkers/tail lights Took out all the LEDs Switch block working fine .... the blue wire is from the parker switch and has power past the plug but nothing at the tail light plug end or the front parkers ..... headlights , dash lights , brake lights all good That wire then disappears into the abyss of the main loom
***** of a problem... have you measured resistance between the tail light assembly/wiring and the switch block?
Do you have power at the last socket/plug under the seat? and at the tail light bulb socket's ? It could be corrosion on the tab the bulb's sit on
not yet Had all that apart and checked and cleaned them all (as I have with most of the plugs today ) .... theres no power on the tail light wire going into that last plug I might lay out one of the spare harnesses and try to get an idea what goes where .... from the switch to the front lights and to the back tail ... that single wire from the switch has to branch somewhere to go in 2 directions If all else fails then I may just split in a wire into the blue active and run it straight to the rear tail ...... I need daytime running lights , especially for this weekend
Sound's like a plan. I noticed on my bike the blue at the tail light's is half the size of the one that goes into the main loom at the front, i reckon it wouldn't be far from the entry point in the loom
The plot thickens .... I think it may be the new ignition setup .... had a feeling it could have been it from the start but couldnt think how it would affect the lights As seen here those blue wires go directly via the ignition and the wires on the new ignition wernt coloured the same.... I just bought an ignition with a 4 wired plug as other FZRs have 3 wired ignitions ... I cut the new plug off and wired in an old lead to match the loom connections .... maybe I have the 2 blues/blacks the wrong way round I think I have this right ... not that it makes sense to me
Yep ... thats the problem .... plugged in the old ignition and instant LIGHTS Ill have to try swapping the leads around t/m
@GreyImport - you were burning the midnight oil on this one, me personally I would be very happy that you've found the source of the problem - which isn't buried deep within the loom. Are you able to change the key switch lower mechanism onto the new key barrel? Or perhaps the new key barrel into the old unit? Check the continuity on the wires between both also as you may be able to solder the old plug onto the new unit to get it back to how is should be