Well almost finished with the fairing repairs. Filler has been applied where required. 3 light coats on the main fairing which had the most damage/ scraping. Still have to sand this one down. The rear cowling that was welded came up well And the belly pan didn't need much at all. This is the stuff I used in the fairings. It is pretty good. It goes off quickly so it is only small amounts at a time but that is better in the long run. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Seems I need to get the Mig out as well That will be interesting lol Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
It's looking better every day! Just watch the bigger scrape's that you fill, any sharp edge's have the chance of biting up when you put the primer on Should really be feathered out so you can't feel any edge's before you put the filler on. When priming try not to put it on thick and wet, the thinner's can soak into the paint and seep back under the repair and bite/fry up If you can get away without using primer filler i'd just use a couple of light coat's of Plastic Adhesion Primer, let it dry, then paint your colour straight over the top
That is the rough dry sanding. Still have to go 240 and then 400 wet and dry. Edges should feather out then. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Knife putty is basically thick primer/filler, it's reknown for shrink back Just give it another thin skin of that plastic filler over the top of the repair and feather out the edges
So... I will try again with this post... I decided to sort out the RH rear set so it was the same colour as the RH side... (black shadow chrome finish). Removed it and cleaned it down... then sprayed it metallic wheel silver.... then after it was dry I gave it several light coats of the shadow black clear... It should look OK when it is all finished.
I have also started prepping the fairings for paint... 2 rear cowls are flattened off... still have to do the main fairing and the bellypan... front guard, glovebox etc...
So.. today I eventually sorted out the Indicators... now I know all the electrics work... I might have also found a possible reason the bike wouldn't run other than light throttle... the Earth lead to the coil pack for 1 set of cylinders was just sitting on the pin... barely.. the locking mechanism wasn't working and it was actually quite loose. I will need to buy some fuel for it tomorrow as I drained the foul smelling old fuel out of the tank... and see if fixing that made a difference.. Not that I will get too much done tomorrow... it is heading to mid 40's here so the Garage will be stifling...
Yep, the clear needs to really well shaken to get everything in suspension and many light coats to get the coverage you need but it is a nice finish. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I did it on a set of BBS LM centers with polished lips and they came out incredible. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Ok, went and grabbed some fuel and threw a few liters into the tank. It took a while to get enough fuel through to start but once it did it responded much better than with the old fuel. Although it still won't respond to the throttle or rev higher than between 7000 to 9000 rpm Fan didn't come on either so I need to sort that out as well. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sorry if you've mentioned these before Have you removed and cleaned the fuel tap if it's got one ? New fuel filter ? New spark plug's ? Check the fuel level's in the fuel bowl's before taking the carb's off High idle will have the engine running on both the start circuit and the needle, so will be over rich. Otherwise yeah take the carby's off, and give them a thorough clean out, soak the jet's etc in Threebond or Yamalube carby dip, poke some fishing line through all the hole's in the jet's, emulsion tube's etc, remove and clean the mixture screw's, check the hole is open through to the carby bore at the bottom of the mixture screw thread's in the carby etc. then blow some high pressure air through all the port's in the carby to make sure everything is clean
I was hoping it would have cleared itself with new fuel... lol Wishful thinking... Apparently it was running well when it was dropped... at a track day so you would assume it wasn't too bad. I had the sliders out yesterday and they and the diaphragms are fine and didn't appear to be any signs of junk but again it was probably more wishful thinking than anything else... This bike is starting to annoy me.... lol I want to get it running nicely before I start to re-finish the panels... mainly as when they are done I want to fit them all up so there is less chance of damage to them.
Hey guys, just a thought on paint... I painted an Across last year in Auto Air water based paint from airbrushmegastore in Oz, topped with Concept MS-22 2k clear. The auto air has amazing adhesion, sprays with practically no overspray when used with an HVLP mini gun, and is non toxic. Used barely 200ml of colour. Burnt Orange/Elegance/Pearl Black. No restrictions on open times before top coating with clear, so great for airbrushing/pinstriping/detailing too. Check out SM Designs on YouTube for some great tutorials - a bit different in process than traditional solvent paints...
A bit more done today... Air cleaner housing is out... checked fuel flow from the pump... there is plenty... do fuel isn't an issue... started her up and its interesting when you try to rev it the slides seem to bounce... and there is a lot of fuel going in... Next step is removal of the barbies and three bond treatment... I am guessing there is gunk in there somewhere.. I just want to get this bike running nicely.. doesn't have to be 100%... lol
So.. I finally got around to attacking these carby's.. It was interesting... the green hardened sludge in the bottom of the float bowls gave me an indication that there would be more issues... a bit of an understatement...lol The main jets are completely blocked... as are the pilot jets... at least the emulsion tubes aren't too bad... I have one side soaking overnight in Threebond... I wish I had my Ultrasonic cleaner....grrr. I checked the mixture screws... interesting... the outside screws are out 3.5 turns and the inside ones are out 3 turns.... I will need to look up the specs to see where they should be set... I am waiting on my good camera battery to charge so I can take better pics of the float valves... I am pretty sure they need changing though...