Stu Check kbs's website for your nearest stockist, my one turned out local and came out $16 cheaper them eBay.
Sorry I missed all this. I am just going to use the electrolysis method and see how it goes. cheers Blair
Pin holes would be a nightmare, finger crossed. If it happens I think I'll try the TIG and some silicon bronze rod on that and see how I go.
I did some dodgy patch jobs and more holes sprang so if said stuff it and had a go at doing it properly http://2fiftycc.com/index.php?threads/huntsmans-kawasaki-zxr250a.1348/page-10
If the bronze is a failure I might try lead wiping or some such. The kits and exotic materials need to be imported and shipping will kill me.
I bought it direct from the KBS website. Terrific customer service. Package got lost and KBS ended up sorting it out for me. They ended up sending me another one while they were still chasing up the lost parcel. As for the end result. It looks like a pretty solid coating. However, I haven't touch the bike since Dec haha! Not sure if I've posted this, but I've tried the electrolysis method as well (prior to the kit). It worked well, however once 'cleaned' you still need to seal the inside surface of the tank. Otherwise it'll just corrode again. Effort vs time. These sealing kits are the way to go.
Looking around, I found Red-Kote, another sealer from the US. They have an agent in Aus who also offers a restoration service. http://www.ftrs.com.au/redkote/red_kote.php http://www.ftrs.com.au/fueltanks/fueltanks.php cheers Blair
I did the tanks on the F7 and F2 Kawasaki's with the KBS kit and found it easy to use and worked well. The excess from the tank I poured into a hole in my shed floor and it set as hard as the concrete.
have used white vinegar and works well ,left in 3 days empied then refilled and left 4 days BUT if not using straight away rince with a heavy concentrate of 2 stroke mix otherwise flash rusting will form quickly , best liner on the market I reckon is caswell ,will cover pinholes and suitable for steel/plastic/fiberglass and seems to be a lot more ethanol tolerant than the others..worth having a look at their web site ,they have a lot of other goodies as well ..polishing /diy plating etc ..google caswell aust (and no I don't work for them)
I used Kreem in my Norton fuel tank about 30 years ago, it's still fine. If you use it in an oil tank ... don't be like me, take out the strainer first.
Installed the kreem prep a b and liner on my cd250 tank as it had some rust in it. I washed it out with degreeser first. Then dish soap n boiling water adjitated . Then 4 hours of prep a etching and de ruster think its muric acid and mixed with 10l of boiling water. Which after 1 hour a small pin hole leak appeared n leaked. Adjitated and shook it around and captured the leaks in a plastic draw, it smelt bad and wore gloves and beather mask. Then drained it into a 10l contai...ner. Rinced it out with water. Added prep b which is acetone i think. Its a straight in adjitate by sbaking around and drain out thing. Attempted to drain with funnel back into container but knocked it over n lost most of it. Then poured in the kreem tank liner. Rolled the tank around for 15 minutes non stop. Drained the remainder back into its container. Then continued to roll tank around for 15 minutes. Bit more came out the petcock so put a container under it. Every hour i moved it around on different sides upside down etc. Managed to stink my garage out so had to leave the garage doors n windows open all night. After 24 hours its cured. Looks like its ffrmed a small plug over the leak which it states it will seal pin hole leaks. All is left to do is install the petcock n see if it holds fuel.
I think Kreem is too old tech and a lot of the newer products are more effective. No hard evidence but just what I have gathered.
probably is but if it works it works. i read you can do a 2nd coat for extra strength, wonder if i should
If you can do a second coat, I would. I used Kreem of the original tank of my FT500 and it still had a slight weep along one of the bottom seams where the holes were.
well ive got enough left i think to do a 2nd coat, so i might as well put some more in i recon, its been about 72 hours since i did it, so its cured id say now.
ok second coat in, bugger all drained out this time. looks a heck of a lot thicker this time in there now though. first coat was almost transparent. this one, looks white