Can you tell us what tank sealing kit you used and what you think about it. I need to do this too. cheers Blair
Ive used the POR 15 many moons ago on the 2 Triumph tanks ..... excellent results as far as Im concerned ...... many people love these tank treatments , many say they are crap. The FUEL PRESERVATIVE & STABILIZER wasnt part of the kit back then ..... the price looks about the same though . http://www.por15.com/FUEL-TANK-REPAIR-KIT_p_62.html I would say its how u approach the procedure ...... if you dont do all the steps correctly and with patience u end up with a pile of hardened junk in your tank ...and everywhere else for that matter. You really need to spend the time getting the liner spread nicely inside and around the filler......if your arms dont hurt after you are finished u havnt put in the effort ..... and I did 2 at once Heres the main tank ..... grey is the POR liner ...... first time the cap has been off for 5 (?) years (aint that sad! )
Thanks! That is what I needed to know. I have looked at those Por kits and they seem to be a good option. All in the preparation by the looks of it. I bought a little usb endoscope type camera so I could check all the nooks and crannies when I finally get around to doing it.
Yea good idea with the camera ..... may do that when I get around to doing the Yammy tanks. For anyone reading this, a good start on a badly rusted tank is to put a handful of fishing sinkers or nuts and bolts inside and yes rock and roll the tank till your arms fall off.....this will loosen up the worst of the rust areas. The Triumph tanks filler openings let them fall straight out when u are finished but the FZR tank has a lip inside so they were a little harder to get completely out! This would also be something to be wary of when doing the sealer stage.
Australian Distributor http://www.ppcco.com.au/kits3.htm International Distributors http://www.por15.com/International_ep_42.html Information sheet http://www.ppcco.com.au/fact_sheets/pi/pi_motorcyclerepairkit.pdf
Nuts and bolts or road gravel into tank, wrap in lots of bubble wrap and stuff tight in cement mixer, let rotate for 1/2 hour while having beer, tip out all the rubbish then start with POR15.
Hi Maelstrom. I used a Kreem tank liner kit of my DT00R many years ago (probably 19 years ago in fact) and it's still going strong. I had had a huge stack on the bike and it sat in the shed for months waiting for a new frame etc. When I finally got around to fixing it, the tank was full, and I mean full, of rust. I tried the nuts and bolts thing (wish I had thought of Murdo's method) to shift the worst of the flakes of rust. The Tank prep (1st part) then completely dissolved all the rust in a matter or hours and etched all the metal. The liner was the hardest part - it's initially quite runny but gets viscous quickly and you have to continuously rotate the tank around to ensure an even coating and also get rid of the excess before it gets too viscous (the DT tank also had a lip which made this difficult - I ended up draining it out of the hole where the fuel petcock goes in). It takes off paint better than any paint stripper too.
Love the concept Murdo, can handle the nuts and bolts and can do the bubble wrap and certainly am able to accommodate a few beers. Alas the final hurdle has me stumped, I don't own a cement mixer.
How did you go with this, Maelstrom? What did you end up using? I did a bit of research into these kits and 3 names kept popping up: Tank Kreem POR15 Tank Sealer Kit KBS Tank Sealer Kit A few reviews said the Kreem was a bit on the average side, with quite a number of users saying it doesn't last more than a year or two. POR15 and KBS are the better choices and pretty much on par with each other. I'm about to use the KBS on my tank, we'll see how it goes. I chose the KBS because it was slightly cheaper.
Finally got around to finishing my tank. Here's my experience with the KBS tank sealing kit: The instructions are clear and easy to understand. So if you follow it, you'll be apples. Three basic steps: Degrease, rust treat/etch and sealant. Degrease - Water based degreaser to remove any wax or residues. As mentioned in the instructions, do two cleans. Mix up half the solution in one clean. Pour out, rinse and use the other half. The degreaser will probably still look dirty coming out of the second clean, but that's okay. Unless it's heavily soiled, two should be enough. I thought it would be a good idea to put 2 long pieces of garden chain to help remove scale and loose rust. I thought it'd be better than putting shots/gravel/nuts/bolts e.t.c as it will be easier to fish out. Boy, that didn't end well for me! On the second wash during my enthusiastic tank shaking, the chain managed to wrap itself around an interval vent line and tangle the other chain. Took some patience, but I eventually untangled it by bending the links and splitting the chain into smaller sections. Rustblast - This stuff works a treat. Has a blue tinge to it from the bottle, comes out clear after sloshing in the tank. This will further clean, rust treat and etch the metal. Got the inside of my tank looking real shiny. After this step, make sure the tank is completely dry before you pour the sealer in. I did two rinses with isopropyl alcohol to help absorb and evaporate water and gave it a real good blast with compressed air for a good 10-20mins all up. Then sat the tank in the sun to get any remaining water out. Sealer - Nice runny product out of the tin. Make sure you stir (not shake) to mix it up. If you shake, you'll introduce air bubbles into it which is not good. I sloshed the tank around for 20mins to enure even coating and then drained it. Don't brush any sealer on the fuel filler locking cap mechanism. I foolishly did and will now have to use paint stripper to remove it as the lock/unlock tab is frozen. The instructions say it takes 4 days for it to fully cure. I'll wait 5 just to be sure. It seems to be pretty good. Very hard surface after only a few hours on the filler cap. Overall, I'm pretty happy with the product. Now for the real test; time.
Sounds a success Jim (except the chain!) What kind of price was the KBS kit ? ..... does it cover 1 or 2 tanks? Any chance u have a photo of inside the tank/filler hole to show the lining?
KBS kit was $71 delivered to my door (metro syd). Stockists aren't selling it for much cheaper. The kit only does one tank (up to 20L). For larger tanks, there's a larger kit. I'll get a pic tomorrow. Hopefully, it'll be mostly set and you can see the finish.
Don't know about cleaning tanks, but I put a 4kg bag in my pool this morning, called ph lifter, works a treat.
The vinegar in the tank sounds great .... never thought to use it there . Vinegar is mildly acidic and , along with baking soda, is what your great grandma would have used around the home before all the commercial u beaut products took over in the supermarket. http://www.aselfsufficientlife.com/tips-for-traditional-cleaning-without-chemicals.html http://2fiftycc.com/index.php?threads/my-fizzer.872/page-3#post-6279
Did my tank with the KBS kit over the weekend it is now curing, I was tempted to leave it alone after the rust blast was done but the tank has been springing pin hole leaks. After Rustblast After sealer kit (hoping it takes....)
Hey Tyson Good job mate, your tank certainly had some pin holes, fingers crossed that the sealant does it's job. You just have to be patient during the curing process......... the longer it cures = better outcome.