Help FZR250 Western Australia ID HELP

Discussion in 'Yamaha 250cc In-Line 4's' started by misspent youth, Jan 5, 2017.

  1. kiffsta

    kiffsta Senior Member

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    The suspense is killing me, did it start ?
     
  2. misspent youth

    misspent youth Member

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    Hi All, Apolagies for not posting an update on waking up the fizzer from its long sleep, As its school holidays i had to endure the are we there yet, he's pinching me dad and we want ice cream etc etc on the annual trip down south.

    Ok, so cleaned plugs drained tank, fresh fuel, New battery injected some fuel in the carbs & fuel pump.
    My 7yo & I prayed to the motorcycle gods. Turned on Ignition, exup went through its check fuel pump did its thing, happy happy joy joy, Ignition off, turn backon to confirm it wasn't a hallucination, Same result.

    Choke on, hit the starter.... cranking over it was trying start & then It announced in all it glory I'm back baby, all 4 cylinders fired and settled into a constant humm, I feather choke & throttle and to maintain rpm and it's sounding great,. a lot of soot and occasional cough. but it's sounding great, then white smoke a shitload of it and its wanting to die so i shut it down.

    Try and start no luck, Check all vitals-looks all ok check check & recheck Try to start.. Not interested
    Thinkin fuel tank is rusty must have sucked in rust, open tank there's not enough fuel in the tank, must have been thirsty pour more fuel, ignition on then off to pump some fuel.

    Full choke hit starter Fires up instantly no hesitation what so ever and settles into nice humm

    I get it up to temp choke off, idles good, blip throttle - Instant response, Very Very Happy. 7yo claims he should be congratulated as he prayed harder that's why it started and asks will it beat his crf50.

    The bikes unlicensed it's also got No front brake due to the piston on the lever broken ( see attached pic, any suggestions for a replacement would be appreciated)
    Once up the street to ensure we have gears, Engage clutch select gear & off we go no shudder - smooth direct feel to all gears, clutch feels great gearbox positive, rolls true and straight

    To sum up - very very Happy And a big THANK YOU TO ALL FOR YOUR VALUBLE INFORMATION AND FEEDBACK

    Regards
    Mark
     
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  3. Jo Verhelst

    Jo Verhelst Forty2 Contributing Member

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  4. my67xr

    my67xr Bike Enthusiast Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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  5. misspent youth

    misspent youth Member

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    Hi my67xr, Thanks for your info it was invaluable help getting the bike started.
    Regarding the front brake the cast is broken, so thinking i'll need to replace ?

    image.jpg

    Cheers Mark
     
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  6. Andych

    Andych Moderator Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member Dirty Wheel Club

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  7. kiffsta

    kiffsta Senior Member

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    Congrats Mark , that's Bloody awesome !!!
     
  8. my67xr

    my67xr Bike Enthusiast Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    Not sure , it look's like the original to me, no damage ?
    Maybe just looking a little crusty, i'm guessing you are holding the brake lever on in the pic ?

    [​IMG]
     
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    Last edited: Jan 15, 2017
  9. misspent youth

    misspent youth Member

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    image.jpg Thanks Kiffsta, Great result - So far

    Hi My67xr,
    Not holding the lever- there's No pressure at all, Its had a low speed drop by previous owner and looks like the casting has broken of where the piston seats
     
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  10. my67xr

    my67xr Bike Enthusiast Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    Hmm, not sure can't see too much wrong in the pic or is the bottom rear section pushed in?,
    the piston might be a bit dirty/sticky causing the lever to be in that far ?
    @GreyImport import might have a good used spare front master or maybe @joker or @Linkin / @Grasshopper ?
     
  11. James P

    James P Active Member

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    Yes - I also can't see any broken casting from the picture posted.

    Mr Misspent Youth; Does the lever/piston move at all? If not, the piston is probably seized. As far as I can tell, the master cylinder should be a generic Nissin 14mm item, as fitted to many twin-disc Japanese bikes of the late 1980s onwards. I have pulled apart quite a few of these (even some that were seized) and never needed to replace anything apart from the rubber boot.

    After removing the master cylinder from the bike, you should be able to remove the lever and the rubber boot to gain access to the circlip retaining the piston. If the circlip is difficult to remove, try applying some gentle heat (heat gun or hair dryer) along the outside of the cylinder. You should then be able to mount the cylinder assembly in a vice and (with a suitable packer) gently push the piston inwards - this should enable you to remove the circlip. By combining heat and pressure, you may be able to get the piston moving again, at which time you should be able to pull it out of the cylinder.
    Once you have it apart, you should be able to assess the condition of all the parts. The rubber boot may be damaged beyond use, but there is a good chance that everything else can be used again (just make sure the cylinder bore is not scored).
    Be very careful to avoid damaging the piston seals when removing them from the piston (I use a small blunt screwdriver) and note which way around they should be fitted. Clean all parts meticulously (I use hot soapy water for the rubber parts) and further inspect for damage - wear will likely not be a problem on a low-mileage bike.
    If it transpires that you only need a new rubber boot for the piston, all of the following are the same part:

    Kawasaki 49016-1044
    Suzuki 59666-44300
    Yamaha 5G2-25868-00
    Honda 45504-410-003

    It should only cost a few dollars, but prices vary considerably! They are also available aftermarket, but you may have difficulty buying only the boot without the rest of the parts (piston, seals, circlip etc.).

    If the piston is seized, it may be advisable to overhaul the braking system completely. However, you may be able to do this without buying any new parts (except for the rubber boots perhaps).
    Let us know how you get on.

    Regards,
    James
     
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  12. misspent youth

    misspent youth Member

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    image.jpg My apologies,
    I took the lever of to get a better look, And i think your correct my67xr, There's no damage to the outer case/housing
    I think its seized up
     
  13. misspent youth

    misspent youth Member

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    image.jpg Hi James
    Thanks for your detailed reply, much appreciated, No damage, (note to self put on glasses)

    Lever looks fine
    I'll start the process
    Regards

    Mark
     
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  14. my67xr

    my67xr Bike Enthusiast Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    Yeah pull the master cylinder apart and give everything a good thorough clean.
    If you can pull the rubber out where the hose goes into the top, you should be able to see 2 hole's.
    Once it's clean shine a torch into the bore and look at those 2x hole's, the front hole (furthest from the lever end) is tiny, if that's not open then the brake fluid can't return back up to the reservoir when you release the brake
    May be part of the problem with the sticky piston too.

    I've had the same experience with master's as James ^, i've never had to put a kit through any that i've worked on

    And seeing as the bike has been sitting so long, it'll need the brake fluid's flushed and replaced anyway, then re bleed the front and rear system's
     
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  15. Joker

    Joker See "about me" for contact details. Contributing Member

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    Yes I have spares but they will need some attention to rebuild...
     
  16. misspent youth

    misspent youth Member

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    Hi All,
    Big Thanks to James P & Myxr67 for their info regarding the master cylinder /brakes.
    I disassembled the front master cylinder and it was siezed, so after many expletives i managed to save all the components except the boot, So i built a new boot from the rubber of an old brake resivor that i had lying around - have ordered a new one, so no need for a compete kit. (the boot $16.00)
    cleaned reassembled and reverse bleed the front brakes and now i can stop on a dime : )
    The rear was working fine so i just pumped a litre of fluid to clean out the brown brake fluid.

    Subject to time, my plan is to obtain a roadworthy certificate this week.
    A question for all you gurus: Front Left Hand Indicator lense. Are they interchangeable with any other models ?
    Ill call the local wreckers they may have a corpse buried in their inventory , fingers crossed
    I know i can purchase online but having been for a few stealth laps around the block, really would like to get the bike inspected & hopefully passed this week
    Thanks in advance, appreciate all the information everyone has provided thus far it's been invaluable
    Regards
    Mark


    image.jpg
     
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  17. kiffsta

    kiffsta Senior Member

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  18. my67xr

    my67xr Bike Enthusiast Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    I bought a pair of these, they come with Stanley lense's which are a direct fit on the 3LN3 FZR250's
    The black chinese housing's are a bit cheap and nasty though
    http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/221653838540

    I have a spare here that you can have if you want to pay for post, it has 1 broken lug but a dab of silicon will hold it on that side
    Pm me and i'll get it in the post
    Craig
     
  19. GreyImport

    GreyImport Administrator Staff Member The Chief Contributing Member

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  20. James P

    James P Active Member

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    Glad you got it sorted Mark, although I'm a little surprised the boot cost $16. The last time I bought these in Australia, I'm sure they were much less than $10 each (although it was probably more than a year ago...).
    The present retail price in Japan for this item (Yamaha 5G2-25868-00) is 637Yen (about A$7.50)!

    Regards,
    James
     

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