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Help 1999 Yamaha FZX250 Zeal TDC?

Discussion in 'Yamaha 250cc In-Line 4's' started by Anne K, Jul 6, 2020.

  1. Anne K

    Anne K Member

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    Yes, I have reset the CCT.
    There’s something stopping the chain from moving even when the CCT is removed, I can feel the rear damper move/press towards the where the CCT hole is when the CCT is removed also.
     
  2. ruckusman

    ruckusman White Mans Magic Master Premium Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    I wrote this earlier but forgot to post it

    Any chance the bike has been put into gear?

    If the chain is over the cams and they are installed there's is nothing to jam, UNLESS the chain around the crank end it sitting up on the teeth and not over them.

    The rear cam chain tensioner is bolted down at the base, so it cannot be the problem

    The front one slots into it's lower location, if that is incorrect it may have jammed between the chain around the lower crank gear with the chain run and the crank case
     
  3. Anne K

    Anne K Member

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    Process of elimination.. The bike is in neutral, I’ll check if the crank is over the lower crank in the morning, sounds like that may me what’s causing the excess tension hopefully!
     
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  4. Anne K

    Anne K Member

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    https://www.redwhiteandblue.com.au/product/red-white-and-blue-tank-liner-sealer-kit/

    Would the epoxy in this kit be safe to line the tank with?
    I’ve added vinegar to the tank tonight and I’ll use bicarb and demineralised water to neutralise it after rinsing it out in a few days.

    I haven’t fixed the cam chain tension issue yet as I’ve left it for a few days so I don’t get stupidly frustrated, id rather have a go with a cooler mind.
     
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  5. ruckusman

    ruckusman White Mans Magic Master Premium Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    I don't know if anyone here has experience with that kit

    How rusty is the inside?

    You can do this, it will eliminate all of the surface rust inside as long as there aren't any holes - took me quite a few days, but worked an absolute treat

    https://www.2fiftycc.com/index.php?threads/rusty-fuel-tank-electrolysis.1809/

    Depending on the amount of surface rust that's in there I would recommend the electrolysis prior to lining so that surface rust doesn't bubble from underneath and ruin the liner, which was what had happened to my tank, there was dislodged liner all through it from improper or incomplete preparation
     
  6. Anne K

    Anne K Member

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    I meant to write “I’ll check if the chain is over the lower crank...”
     
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  7. Anne K

    Anne K Member

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    It’s not very rusty but there was a flake about the size of a 10c piece. Likely just from sitting for a while without a full tank, I don’t have any inspection equipment to see how rusty it really is.

    There is a pinhole or 2 on a seam
    (see photo) so lining the tank is the best option. I’ve already got the liner here, just checking to see if anyone has lined there tank with epoxy and what the results were like. This company claims it can seal up to 5-10mm
     

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  8. Murdo

    Murdo The Good Doctor Staff Member Premium Member Ride and Events Crew Contributing Member

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    I've not used a red,white and blue kit but if the instructions are followed to the letter/minute then it should work fine.
     
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  9. my67xr

    my67xr Bike Enthusiast Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    Does it say what chemical/s are in the Rust Remover ?
    Deoxidine i'm guessing
     
  10. Anne K

    Anne K Member

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    It’s citrus based, that’s all I can find out about it.
     
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  11. Anne K

    Anne K Member

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    I fixed the tension issue by removing the cams and spinning the chain on the lower crank and it moved smoothly! Put it all back together and heard that sweet sweet sound of the tensioner clicking! I just need to work on getting the cams in the right place to set the timing
     
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  12. Anne K

    Anne K Member

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    This side of the cams don’t seem to want to move down any further, Is there something I’m missing? To get them that far I turned the crank slightly one way for the intake cam and then the other way for the exhaust cam. I’ve also included pics of timing markers.

    AD9116DC-29F1-42DE-A340-3BF68E526B59.jpeg A8610679-8124-48F7-B624-ABFC48AA8250.jpeg 44625FB6-47C9-4054-969D-3D766A708986.jpeg
     
  13. Linkin

    Linkin The Apprentice Premium Member Dirty Wheel Club Contributing Member

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    Can you post a picture of the crankshaft timing mark when the cams are in the positions pictured
     
  14. Anne K

    Anne K Member

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    E78B0798-A79F-468A-841F-7888FB3A4C77.jpeg
     
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  15. Linkin

    Linkin The Apprentice Premium Member Dirty Wheel Club Contributing Member

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    Okay. I can see in your pics that the cam chain is not sitting on the sprockets properly. Try turning the crank slightly forward and backwards while keeping hand pressure on the chain until it sits on the sprockets fully. Then tighten the cam caps ensuring even pressure, and re-check timing again.
     
  16. ruckusman

    ruckusman White Mans Magic Master Premium Member Dirty Wheel Club

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  17. Linkin

    Linkin The Apprentice Premium Member Dirty Wheel Club Contributing Member

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  18. Anne K

    Anne K Member

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    Are you sure it’s not on properly? It may have just looked displaced as it was out of focus in the previous pics.
     

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  19. ruckusman

    ruckusman White Mans Magic Master Premium Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    OK - ignore me, apologies late night tired eyes last night, I can see the timing marks now in those photos now

    The cam will sit up on some of the lobes as they will be depressing the buckets slightly.

    Work along them end to end bolting them down evenly as you go.

    If they're stuck it may be because of the dowels on a cam retainer if it isn't perfectly straight.
     
  20. Anne K

    Anne K Member

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    This worked a treat! I was careful to bolt them down evenly as to not strip the threads.
     

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