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Across gets rattle at about 5 grand

Discussion in 'Suzuki 250cc In-line 4's' started by ozbiker, Oct 4, 2012.

  1. ozbiker

    ozbiker New Member Premium Member

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    guys,

    my across has about 96,000 k on the clock. picked it up 2nd hand about 6 months ago.i have got everything on the bike pretty much sorted but it has a rattle at about 5 grand.
    funny thing is, the rattle is there only when moving and the tacho goes above 5 grand, pick a gear, any gear, every gear wins a prize for this.

    you can stop the bike and rev the bejezus out of the motor, and no rattle.im convinced its the timing chain or the valve shims. it has no power loss anywhere in the revs either.

    its damn annoying and im about ready to start pulling panels off my bike and going for a ride to try and isolate it even further as it sounds like its coming from under the "man bag"

    anyone heard their across doing this before?
     
  2. kiffsta

    kiffsta Senior Member

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    Hey ozbiker, welcome to the forum, I have had  a few Across's over the years, I dont recall ever getting a rattle around 5000 rpm... doing the timing chain and shims wouldnt be a bad place to start... but its weird it only does it under load, not at idle... got me stumped
     
  3. ozbiker

    ozbiker New Member Premium Member

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    im stuffed if i know exactly whats causing it.but i will do my best to chase it down over the weekend, its getting very annoying, i will keep you posted
     
  4. Desmo

    Desmo Member Premium Member

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    No rattles from the engine at 5000 here either.

    At 96,000km for sure do the shims as a matter of course. While you're in there measure the cam chain and check the tensioner. One or both of them is probably ready to be replaced at that amount of K's. Though the noise is generally when you back off the throttle.

    Tricky to say without hearing where it's coming from as always :)
     
  5. ozbiker

    ozbiker New Member Premium Member

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    its cool mate, i had a chat to misses_ozbiker today, im getting prices organised and im going to do the engine work myself and be done with it.
     
  6. johnm

    johnm New Member

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    Only just seen this, hope I'm not too late to stop a major rebuild. ..

    I'd bet it's the (timing) chain tensioner, apparently they have a habit of sticking after they get a bit old (don't we all).  I had the 5K rattle on mine and a new tensioner cured it, lovely. smooth and rattle-free now.

    In hindsight I'd have tried giving the old one a tickle with a screwdriver while it was still insitu to see if that cured it.  See below.

    If you take it out you'll need a new gasket, I bought tensioner and gasket for about $120ish from the local dealer, was only a few dollars cheaper online so I didn't bother.  When you get it, don't be tempted to remove the flat metal stopper that's shoved in the back of it (like I did), it'll unwind itself and you'll have to rewind it and put the stopper back in (like I did).

    Swapping its not hard, just lift the handbag, remove the airbox- you'll probably have to take the side fairings off to get to the bolts.  Once you've got the airbox off you'll see the tensioner sticking out the back of the motor, it's a p.o.p to undo the two mounting bolts, lift it out, clean up the gasket surface and put the new one in with the new gasket.  Then (AND ONLY THEN!) take the flat stopper out to release the spring tension and set the tensioner on the chain.  There's a rubber bung that covers the hole the metal stopper was in, last thing is to try to put that back in, drop it under the starter and waste half an hour cursing and swearing while you retrieve it...  Total time for me was about 1 hour start to finish, including hiccups.

    Just a thought, but before you order a new one you might want to see if you can free up/ check yhe oldy.  Gain access to it as above and remove the rubber bung so you can get a smallish screwdriver into the hole, you should feel it engage in  a slot,  wind it in and out, one way you'll feel stiff resistance as you wind it down onto the chain, the other way you'll feel spring loaded resistance as you wind it back against the tensioner spring.  This may unstick it if it's sticky, I guess if it doesn't move freely as you wind it back and forwards against the spring a couple of times it'll need replacing anyway.  Up to you if you want to try it or just replace it straight up, but I reckon it's worth a punt either way, as I said, the new one cured my rattle.

    Cheers
    JM
     
  7. ozbiker

    ozbiker New Member Premium Member

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    its cool mate, the bike has got 96,000k on the clock, its time for its 100,000k service and cam chain needs to be done at 100,000k anyhow
     

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