It looks like it got dropped and accidentally stepped on. You don't need a really high vacuum pressure seal with the diaphragm as the slide 'breathes' through the holes in the bottom. Fuel resistant glue for plastic may be difficult to locate because the plastic itself is resistant to fuel and most solvents - methylene chloride might work, but it's 'hot' - boils off near immediately as it's so volatile
So not much real progress but lots of ideas and plans. I'm keen to try and get the weight down as much as I can, more to just see if I can rather than huge performance gains, and I'd love to try and improve the ergonomics since I'm freakishly tall. Something I've been pondering is how heavy the stock fuel tank is. I had to double check there were no lead weights hiding in the tank, compared to my 2kr and other dirt bikes. Now the biggest problem with ergos for me is my knees fitting in the slots on the tank. The edge where it flattens out perfectly digs into my kneecap. If, however, I slide the tank forward ~30mm my knees fit, and the tank seems to fit the frame even better than stock. Here's the tank in the factory spot, note mounting bolt hole near the steering head. Here's how it looks 30mm forward. No fouling on bars or anything either. Look at the gap between tank and frame in both. Now back to weight savings. I'm thinking, if one was to make an aluminium fuel cell, similar to the 2kr design, and then make a fibreglass cover, that'd have to save a good few kg. And I could make new tabs to slide the tank forwards without having to cut up an original tank. Just a neat idea I've been considering. Sent from my SM-G991B using Tapatalk
Here's the article on the connection between the YZR and FZR's from Yamaha I think you looking for. https://global.yamaha-motor.com/stories/yamaha-handling/list/vol07/01.html
FWIW - I asked @gregt if the 2KR fuel cell and tank cover looks to suit the 3LN frame, he reckons it does - you've got both, see how it looks, it's a good idea. Otherwise you could shorten the bracket which attached to the tank and either redrill or modify the bracket which attached to the frame to get the 3LN tank where you want it.
Great article, thanks. The 2kr is a bit more square shaped so I'm not sure if I like that enough yet. Most likely I'll end up just de rusting the old tank but it's fun to scheme. Sent from my SM-G991B using Tapatalk
I'll see if I can find it, a guy did a great writeup and pictorial of molding an Aprilia RSV tank, simpler if you're going to do a cover as you only need to mold the top, plus once you've done the mold, you could add to the length to the mold of the cutout so it accommodates your knees. CUSTOM! That can be done with something called microballoons - it gets mixed with resin to make it a paste for shaping. Good part is that it is really easy to sand. Simply put, take a piece of ply or MDF, cut to the shape across the centre of the tank. Tape it in place and use plasticine to make it a smooth edge for the mold half. Mold that half. Then remove the plywood, put a plastic film as a separator line which sits up on the plywood on the first molded half and do the second half. All told, the most difficult part is getting the ply cut to a close conforming shape and sanding things smooth prior to either applying mold release wax or PVA mold release takes tim bit isn't actually difficult
Should I be focusing on rebuilding the engine? Yes Did I track down a JDM 3LN3 headlight instead? Yes The guy has a second one if anyone in aus is looking for one too Sent from my SM-G991B using Tapatalk