hey all jus wondering if anyone had any ideas as to why my fzr2kr wont start...i just serviced it myself and now when i try to start it im getting huge backfire..im thinking of taking it to a mechanic but was hoping for any hints before i do to try and save a few $$$ im learning heaps of this site so any tips will be appreciated... i jus wanna get back on the road... safe biking all cheeers
well my bike had just been hit from behind...only a day after i had bought it and this dislodged the air box from the carby's...so i reattatched that.. the rubbers were stiff as but finally managed to get it back on..it seems to be air tight..changed fuel and oil filters...changed the oil...i noticed the old spark plugs were all blackened, dont know why that was so changed the spark plugs to cr8e..the old spark plugs were 3 cr8e and 1 cr9e(is that normal to have one different?) also i had 'dirty' fuel..so i flushed the tank out as well...i think my tank may be a little rusted...i also attempted to clean out the carby's whilst the air box was off...but im new to all this so i dont know how thorough i was compared to the pros...i wanted to drain the carby bowels but was unsure how to disconnect the throttle cable so....i also noticed i have a tiny hole in my muffler which im going to get to with exhaust putty but i dont think that is the source of my problem...
1) make sure the plug leads are on the correct plugs. One coil does cylinder 1 and 4, and the other coil 2 and 3 2)you might still have an air leak between the carbs and the head. 3) your carbs may still be blocked up internally. There are some good post in the "How To" section on dismantling and cleaning. The plugs should all be the same, CR8E. EDIT: No one picked up that I had the plug numbers wrong so I have corrected and here is a pic that might help
Only a few more points on top of what Dave has suggested... 4. You don't need to take the carbs off to drain the float bowls. There's a screw angled diagonally down and to the left of the bike on each carb bowl and a little nipple just next to it where the fuel will come out. I'd much more highly recommend completely taking the carbs out, disassembling them and cleaning them really really well with carb cleaner and compressed air. Whilst you in there inspect the needles and emulsion tubes (jets) and check they're not completely worn out. 5. The tiny hole in you muffler if it's about at the lowest point is intentional and please don't block it up! It's the drain hole for the exhaust so if/when moisture gets in there it can get out before it rusts out your exhaust! 6. If you fuel was 'dirty' then make sure you also replace your fuel filter, and clean out the strainer if your fuel tap has one. Also, i'd really suggest cleaning the carbs properly incase i didn't suggest that enough in #4. <!-- s:wink: --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_wink.gif" alt=":wink:" title="Wink" /><!-- s:wink: -->
And once you have cleaned your carbs for the 4th time, i suggest you give them another once over. im serious. dont laugh.
loll btw sorry for the stooopid questions in advance but i am a noooob lol ok i think i understand now how important is to to clean the carbs...and then when u think your done.... then to clean em again...but im not sure how to disconnect the throttle wire/cable?? also can someone please explain what was meant in regards to the spark plugs..."one coil does 1 n 3 and the other does 2 n 4" cos it jus looks to me as tho each lead could go to anywhere when checking the needles and emulsion jets what indicators am i looking for which would suggest they are worn out or good... cheers
1. Disconnecting the throttle cables should be easy enough. Down at the carb end of the cables where the cables come out of their housings there will be two little nuts that are holding the cable in place. Loosen the rear one, then push the cable housing forward so you can undo the front one until both are loose enough to get the cable housing free. The next bit can be a bit of a pain but the theory is simple. Turn the throttle body (the bit the cables turn) until you get enough slack to free the cable so you can slide the end piece out from the throttle body side ways. Something tells me this is the bit your having trouble with; and i can only recommend trying to get more slack from the cables. 2. There are 2 spark coils in these bikes, and each coil drives two spark plugs (2x2=4). The way the coils are set up is that one coil drives the spark plugs for cylinder 1 & 3, and the other for 2 & 4. (Although im not positive that's correct as something in my head is telling me it's 1&4 and 2&3... working on the system that the cylinder order is 1,2,4,3... which is their firing order). 3. When checking carbs for wear and tear you need to look for the following.. - All rubbers are in tact and flexible. If there are any tears or holes then we have a problem as that will be allowing the vacuum in the carbs to leak. - Carb slides are smooth, free of notches and are sliding without any hitches or obstructions. - Needles need to be smooth and perfectly round. If there are any steps or notches in the needles they will definitely be causing problems. - Emulsion tubes need to be perfectly round and smooth. If they are elliptical then they are worn out and need replacing.
Looks like you spotted that while I was making a post and pic to show the correct layout. See my edited post above.
thaks for the info fzr guru's... u guys really know ur stuff im gonna give it a go over the next few days and hope (fingers crossed) i can get it going...will keep you updated as to my progress cheers
I was actually just using my noggin for once. <!-- s:wink: --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_wink.gif" alt=":wink:" title="Wink" /><!-- s:wink: --> Just little details like that seem to stock in my head, where as important things like remembering someone's name tends to slip my mind. Amusingly enough now you've amended your post all the information the two of us have provided is correct, just we're working on a different numbering system for the cylinders. I tend to opt for the firing order being the cylinder number, where as you've opted for the physical location... For anyone attempting to understand what the heck is going on, fear not! All is well and all the information your getting here is accurate. If the cylinders are numbered 1,2,3,4 from left to right whilst sitting on the bike then the firing order is 1,2,4,3. <!-- s --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_biggrin.gif" alt="" title="Very Happy" /><!-- s --> See? Easy! Good luck with getting her running. Keep us posted on your progress.
