have just put new caliper pistons in the 750 honda and bled the brakes. some bubbles came up into the master cylinder and i feel there is air somewhere in the system. front and rear are interconnected and have bled separately. anyone know the correct sequence and wether rear is bled only from rear or also from front lever. its not bad but not perfect and any help appreciated.
Hey risky Is your system similar to the one I had on my 2005 Blackbird. The system on the Blackbird was back bled from foot pedal, front fork had to be depressed for back activation, beyond that I don't recall, only did it once when I changed all the fluids.
Heres a link to the service manual I uploaded earlier.... https://docs.google.com/file/d/0ByHbiu0yM2SGcU1Ib0hYNjFPT1U/edit?usp=sharing
Hmmmm ...... Have a look here also... section 17 ? http://2fiftycc.com/index.php?resources/honda-common-service-manual.118/
says to use a brake bleeder. i think the problem is air in the line from front m/c to the rear disc.another day and 2 person job.
Try one of these Risky. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/2-IN-1-H...-/230993532467?ssPageName=ADME:L:COSI:AU:1123
have put in a postage cost query as the add says contact with post code. another thing i read was to tie the front handbrake in to allow air to bleed back to master cylinder.trying that now.
the freight on the bleeder that murdo told about is $10.36 to newcastle so should be the same elsewhere.
front lever held in with zip ties worked a treat so now will rebleed the rear. front lever in and held for a few days was magic.
conclusion... weight on rear brake pedal inconclusive BUT when i took wood off pedal had some feel so replace weight and openned rear bleeder,fluid squirted and pedal went down slightly. NOTE I DID NOT SEE ANY AIR.did up bleeder valve and took weight off. once pedal up and master cylinder level went down i had a full pedal.IF I HAVE TO DO THIS AGAIN WILL BLEED TO BEST OF ABILITY AND THEN ZIP TIE AND PUT WEIGHT ON FOOT PEDAL .i believe that it helped greatly but could not see air from rear pedal. think air bled but due to size of rear m/cylinder needed to rebleed and allow pedal to do its job. hope this helps others.
sorry guys i am new on the forum brakes can be a pain to bleed and clutches as well my experience is to vacuum bleed with a kick arse syringe like the one out of pulp fiction i withdraw the fluid through the nipple and do it several times and also you can pressure bleed it as well by pushing the fluid through the nipple as well with the front if the lever is adjustable adjust it so it it doe not have a lot of stroke seems to help as well if its still being a pain i remove the pads and push the pistons back which you will see the bubbles go back in the reservoir anyway this method has worked for me
yeah, vacuum is by far the best method, repco have a great kit for around $100 including a vac pump with gauge, tubes and a small clear tank. theres a tube with a 1-way valve at supercheap for $20 it works well if you can pump the brake lever with no worries just hook it up to the nipple and pump away
After listening to many talking about bleeding the brakes, decided to do mine this morning. On the ride Sunday, the rear brake suffered from fade coming down the mountain, you can get that with older fluid. Did the front first, good feel now even say a massive improvement. The rear had a certain amount of junk within, got that cleared up, all good.
