anyone in sydney got a good hook up for brake pads, before i go ringing people? apparently my pads will need changing in the next 1000 kms but recently my rears have started making a whining noise when on the brakes... so im looking to change them soon... cheers simon
What do you want to know exactly? Price or someone to fit them? I just purchased 2 new sets for the front of the 3LN, cost around $38 each set, my rear set are fine, but i imagine they would be similar in price.
hopefully the whining noise isn't metal on metal - else you could be damaging your discs (possible large cost). See <!-- l --><a class="postlink-local" href="http://www.fzr250.com/attachments/brakeimages/newVSoldPads.jpg">attachments/brakeimages/newVSoldPads.jpg</a><!-- l --> - the top left picture was an old brake pad I replaced, and it was metal on metal. Pretty much anyplace can provide suitable brakepads for them. Relatively easy to change yourself too - see <!-- l --><a class="postlink-local" href="http://www.fzr250.com/viewtopic.php?t=674">viewtopic.php?t=674</a><!-- l --> (I know you didn't ask how, but thought I would provide the link in case you were wondering)
I took a quick read through of your method to replace the pads there Boz. I have a much simpler way, sorry. First, remove the plastic cap on top of the caliper that is hiding the pads so to speak. Next, take a reasonably stout but not large flathead screwdriver and slip it underneath one of the pins that hold the pads. Now pry the pads apart a little bit so you can slip the screwdriver down between the pad and the rotor. Gently, but with even pressure, push the pad towards the caliper. You will feel the pistons compressing back into the caliper body. Repeat for the other pad. You can now remove the pins and the pads will come right out. Slip the new ones in, replace the pins and hitch pins, pump the brakes back up and you are done. Using this method I can do all three rotors in about 15-20 minutes. This is the way that I have done it for years without any issues. This way you do not need to bleed your brakes. Although it is a good idea to flush your brake fluid every other year.
well the bloke at the workshop checked the pads out when he balanced the carbs etc and he said they might need replacing in the next 1,000kms... so im thinking it probably isnt metal on metal since that was about 100kms ago... i'm looking for good prices actually... greeny... where did you get your brake pads from? that sounds like a decent price... cheers simon
Don't apologise - appreciate that! That was one of my first forays into anything do-it-yourself and I was learning as I was going (to be honest I found an online tutorial that described how to change brake pads on a disc-braked snowmobile and adapted their method). At that point I had my bike for 1.5 weeks and I was pretty impressed with myself. <!-- s:lol: --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_lol.gif" alt=":lol:" title="Laughing" /><!-- s:lol: --> It worked at the time (and one other time as well) - but always glad to learn more or better ways of doing things! I will update the 'how to' to include your method. Thanks again!
