This method was posted by Tim (fzrdude). It is easier and quicker than my method that I describe in the post below this. (thanks tim) *********** First, remove the plastic cap on top of the caliper that is hiding the pads so to speak. Next, take a reasonably stout but not large flathead screwdriver and slip it underneath one of the pins that hold the pads. Now pry the pads apart a little bit so you can slip the screwdriver down between the pad and the rotor. Gently, but with even pressure, push the pad towards the caliper. You will feel the pistons compressing back into the caliper body. Repeat for the other pad. You can now remove the pins and the pads will come right out. Slip the new ones in, replace the pins and hitch pins, pump the brakes back up and you are done. Using this method I can do all three rotors in about 15-20 minutes. This is the way that I have done it for years without any issues. This way you do not need to bleed your brakes. Although it is a good idea to flush your brake fluid every other year. *****************
Brake Pad Replacement To start off with, make sure you get the brake pads you need from any dealer. Replacing brake pads is not a difficult process for disc-brakes, though it can be time consuming your first time. First thing I will say: DO NOT, UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES, PULL/PUSH THE BREAK LEVERS DURING THIS PROCESS. If you do while the brake calipers are not attached to the bike, or while there are no pads on, you will cause the callipers to 'eject' themselves and subsequently you will end up having to find a mechanic to fix this problem. Parts needed are only new brake pads and some brake fluid (dot 4). You will also need a c-clamp and some other basic tools (i.e. allan keys) and a half cm tube about 1 meter long (for bleeding the brakes) Now for the process... (I will focus on changing the rear brake pads - the front takes a near identical process and I will just highlight some minor changes) 1. To tell if your brake pads need replacement, take a look at the spacing between the rattle place (the metal bit that hangs over the pad) and the disc. In the image below it is possible to see that there is minimal distance (see highlighting), indicating that these pads are in need of urgent replacement. <!-- l --><a class="postlink-local" href="http://www.fzr250.com/attachments/brakeimages/rear-brake-beforemarked.jpg">attachments/brakeimages/rear-brake-beforemarked.jpg</a><!-- l --> 2. I then removed the complete brake caliper set from the main body of the bike by removing the two bolts highlighted. After these bolts are removed the caliper should lift from the disc without much problem. Note: It is at this stage that if you hit the rear brake lever that the callipers will 'eject', so don't do it! (I was told this, and trusted this, I did not want to take the chance!) <!-- l --><a class="postlink-local" href="http://www.fzr250.com/attachments/brakeimages/rear-completemarked.jpg">attachments/brakeimages/rear-completemarked.jpg</a><!-- l --> <!-- l --><a class="postlink-local" href="http://www.fzr250.com/attachments/brakeimages/rear-brakeremoved.jpg">attachments/brakeimages/rear-brakeremoved.jpg</a><!-- l --> 3. After removing the callipers, I then removed the pegs that keep the pads in place. You can see this in the last image (the one with the hand). After this the brakepads were relatively straight forward to remove - just pull them out. <!-- l --><a class="postlink-local" href="http://www.fzr250.com/attachments/brakeimages/newVSoldPads.jpg">attachments/brakeimages/newVSoldPads.jpg</a><!-- l --> The image above shows just how bad my rear pads were at this point. You can even see that I was down to the metal on one of the pads (a very bad thing, but it wasn't my fault - I had only bought the bike 1 month before!!!) 4 .The next step is the 'fiddly one'. You have to pry open the brake drums within the brake itself. To do this I opened the bleeding valves on top of the brake (two small screws with a hole in them), then inserted a standard c-clamp (it worked for me). Do not pry them too quickly - take your time! I put a cloth between the caliper head and the outside of the brake so I don't scratch anything. <!-- l --><a class="postlink-local" href="http://www.fzr250.com/attachments/brakeimages/rear-cClamp.jpg">attachments/brakeimages/rear-cClamp.jpg</a><!-- l --> Repeat this to get both sides. Note: on the front you will have 2 brake pistons on either side. means that you will have to repeat this process 4 times - 2 on each side of the brake 5. After the brake calipers are pryed open again, you can proceed to insert the new brake pads and essentially go backwards through the steps to put it all back together again. 6. IMPORTANT STEP. You may think you are done now, but no you are not. The brakes will likely not work now as there is no pressure in the brake tubes. You must now bleed the brake lines until you get nice clean brake fluid coming out. To bleed the brakes - attach the 'bleeding tube' to the closest bleeding valve first (ensuring that the other valve is closed)(the front only has one so that makes it easy - the rear has 2). Pump the brake until you start to see nice clean brake fluid coming out without ANY air in the hose. When you see this hold the brake lever down, close the valve, then release the brake lever. Repeat for each valve. Important: while you are doing this you must also ensure that the brake fluid resevoir is full at all times. If it is not then you will put air in the lines again and you will lose your brakes because of that 7. TEST YOUR BRAKES BEFORE YOU RIDE. PUSH THE BIKE AND PRESS THE BRAKE LEVERS TO ENSURE THEY ARE WORKING. IF THEY SEEM TO BE THEN TRY A SLOW RIDE AND SEE HOW THEY COMPARE. NEW BRAKE PADS WILL NOT BE AS STRONG AS THE OLD ONES INITIALLY - ABOUT 100 km's AFTER REPLACEMENT THEY WILL BE UP TO FULL WORKING POWER AGAIN <!-- l --><a class="postlink-local" href="http://www.fzr250.com/attachments/brakeimages/rear-complete.jpg">attachments/brakeimages/rear-complete.jpg</a><!-- l -->
