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Help CBR250RR MC22 No spark

Discussion in 'Honda 250cc In-line 4's' started by capncookie, Dec 6, 2016.

  1. Murdo

    Murdo The Good Doctor Staff Member Contributing Member Ride and Events Crew

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  2. ruckusman

    ruckusman White Mans Magic Master Premium Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    If it's an NTC (negative temperature co-efficient) sensor then you are correct the resistance goes down as temperature rises. I had to research this because almost across the board as temperatures rise in wires, resistors, components etc resistance rises as a function of temperature increase.

    How many wires go to the temperature sensor?

    If it's one then it probably provides the ground for the gauge (don't hang up on this assumption though), so you should be able to use a meter to check for voltage supply at the gauge and the continuity of the wire to the sensor.

    If it does provide the path to ground for the gauge it should give a resistance of some value.

    Anyway if you're going to remove the temp sensor, what about attaching a multimeter to the wire and housing and putting the end into boiling water and see if you get a change in resistance, provided of course there is a resistance value there to begin with
     
  3. capncookie

    capncookie Member

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    THanks for that, will have it ordered before it gets colder in May.

    Its fixed I think.

    Yep, did that, tested everything. I had continuity to ground through the sensor, and continuity at each end of the cables from the gauge. First culprit I tried to fix turned out to be the right one. Terminals on the gauge were corroded. Got a wire brush bit and a dremel and 20 minutes later it was done. Then after I turned the bike on and let it run for a bit the needle moved. I switched the ignition on and off to make sure it wasnt sticking etc and sure enough needle moved back and forth to the same spot. GG thank god the simple fix turned out to be the right one. THe bike is together now, all I need to do is take it for a ride. ALthough I did fuckup and forgot to put the carb breather tube/box back on by the time I already had the airbox and tank back on. Oh well I need to tune the carb since its surging a tiny bit ( better too rich than too lean I suppose) so once I take it for a ride and ascertain items that need attention I'll redismantle the bike and put it back on. ALso need to order a carb tuner.
     
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  4. Damus

    Damus She is a BEAST and riding it is comparable to sex Dirty Wheel Club

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    the carb breather tube/black box thing (sub air filter) isn't really necessary. probably most of the mc22's sub air filters have turned to dust and by that stage it makes little difference if there is a hose there or not.

    Surging isn't a sign of richness, its actually a sign of one of the following: vacuum leak (exhaust or intake), lean, dirty or sync.
    Getting the carbs to a point I was satisfied took me over a year, so good luck!
     
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  5. capncookie

    capncookie Member

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    Cairo, wasn't too worried about the sub filter, more so the tube to what I think is the breather for the engine. Connects to the bottom of the air box under the filter
     
  6. Damus

    Damus She is a BEAST and riding it is comparable to sex Dirty Wheel Club

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    Ahh yeah the crank case breather hose, yeah apparently you gain a minuscule amount of power without the hose so i just blocked the hole it connects to on the air box with a screw and left it off also.
     
  7. GreyImport

    GreyImport Administrator Staff Member The Chief Contributing Member

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    Anything u arnt sure about then do it or put it back together as it originally was

    Any info given here is purely advisory ..... those little Japanese men in white coats , the designers, engineers, technicians back in the day would have certainly known alot more than anybody on this forum could ever dream of.

    Reading the workshop manual is usually the best place to learn about the bike you own for starters.

    http://2fiftycc.com/index.php?resources/honda-cbr250r-cbr250rr-workshop-manual-mc19-mc22.66/
     
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