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Discussion DIY Wet Blaster

Discussion in 'Tech Tips' started by Andych, Oct 19, 2019.

  1. Andych

    Andych Senior Member Premium Member

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    I know this was sort of discussed a bit when @ShaneP had a lash at using a pool pump etc but just recently I have been thinking more about it as when I get into the Honda CB's I will have lots of bits that will need Vapour ("wet" ) blasting to bring them up looking like new.
    When I started adding up what it would cost me to have these parts done I re-visited You tube looking for DIY wet blasters....
    It really isnt too hard to convert my Sand Blast cabinet to a reasonably effective wet blast or vapour blast cabinet.
    There are a number of videos from a New Zealand guy (linked below) who tries all sorts of pumps.. washing machine pumps etc and even makes a small wet blast cabinet from an old dishwasher...
    In essence what I need is a trash pump ($60 on ebay) a large bucket, some hose and fittings plus a blast nozzle.
    The concept is proven and it takes some fiddling to get the recirculation / agitation line flow correct but that wont be an issue. I would ideally like to use a foot switch to turn on the pump and open a solenoid for the air line at the same time which I can pick up from ebay (around $30) so for not too many $$$ I should be able to make it work...
    These guys use fairly fine grade glass beads for their slurry so I will investigate that as well. It would be interesting to find out the exact media @kiffsta uses in his Industrial grade machine..

    I wont start on it for a month or so but I will start gathering bits and pieces along the way to get it to a stage where I can just muck in and convert it...

     
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  2. kiffsta

    kiffsta Administrator Staff Member Dirty Wheel Club Contributing Member

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    I use potters AD grade bead , I also have AH but AD is best

    the glandless pump is the challenge as you need to pump the slurry mix , the bead will chew out most pumps

    this pic shows it best

    2A11BB29-0F50-4AC9-BD9B-AF219DEB5B44.png
     
  3. ShaneP

    ShaneP Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    The boss was probably watching the same video; he was thinking about a DIY unit, converting the dry blaster. But a dishwasher or washing machine could be good for me - I might have a few to choose from lying around here... But the boss knows a blaster in town, he's probably better off just taking it to them.
     
  4. Andych

    Andych Senior Member Premium Member

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    For an Industrial machine then yes... the glandless pump is a better option but for what I would be doing a Stainless steel dirty water pump will work perfectly.. they all have a vortex style impeller so there is very little circulation around the mechanical seal which is to concerning part... naturally the more expensive (better brand) of pump the better the quality but I cant justify using one of the pumps I sell ($840 list price) over a $75 pump...
    The trick is to ensure good agitation of the slurry... that way the pump isnt overly stressed.
    Pricing it all up I can do it for around $200... I will have way more than that as an expense if I do all the parts I want to do on the 2 CB's.
    Front and rear hubs, engine cases, barrels, heads fork lowers... so for me... it is worth the investment..
    Another guy in the USA is doing the same thing and he also uses AD grade beads... so that seems to be the right way to go.
    If I was in Brisbane.. I wouldnt even bother as it would be worth using @kiffsta but here in Sydney.. there isnt anyone close and without knowing them or their quality of work (or charge rates) I just think this is worth a shot.
     
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  5. Barney7779

    Barney7779 Member Premium Member

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    I use a similar setup to this

    Mine is a genuine Karcher thing....Messy as all hell but get the job done pretty good

     
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  6. Andych

    Andych Senior Member Premium Member

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    I also have a KArcher one like that but it isn’t any use on smaller items.
    The wet blast cabinet is perfect for the sort of items I need to clean up.


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  7. my67xr

    my67xr Bike Enthusiast Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    Nice work.
    I picked up a $50 used sand blasting cabinet 90L 6 month's ago to convert it for vapour blasting
    Haven't had a chance to start work on it yet
     
  8. Jethalter

    Jethalter Active Member Premium Member

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    Curious, is it possible to seal up a complete running engine, then blast the outside only to remove massive amount of oxidization ???
     
  9. kiffsta

    kiffsta Administrator Staff Member Dirty Wheel Club Contributing Member

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    not Really , the bead is very fine and under pressure can go past seals and gaskets. Everyone I know who blasts , refuses to do complete motors
     
  10. Jethalter

    Jethalter Active Member Premium Member

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    any other alternatives you can think of to remove heavy aluminum oxidization ???

    Stator, sprocket, clutch covers etc... can all unbolt so thats just normal blast, but mainly things like case and barrels
     
  11. my67xr

    my67xr Bike Enthusiast Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    I picked up a used Onga pump on saturday for $20, had a few extra bit's with it that i didn't need.
    From what i can find online, the pump is around 450w, should be good for testing purposes.
    I wired the power plug directly off the pump bypassing the control box and various switch's


    [​IMG] [​IMG]
    [​IMG] [​IMG]


    First test run with just water




    I went to Bunning's yesterday and bought some pipe fitting's to get it working, i needed a 25mm to 20mm adapter, a 20mm T piece, a 13mm barb fitting and a 19mm barb fitting.

    This morning i set it up temporarily in the blasting cabinet to try it out
    I only have a 4mm bore ceramic tip fitted in the blasting gun atm, and am running the air pressure at 90psi.
    I'm impressed with the result's though
    Next i'll need to set up a wiper to keep the glass clean while i blast.

    I will also try it out with the bigger blasting head that i bought for the pressure cleaner.

    20191028_111646.jpg 20191028_111621.jpg 20191028_111548.jpg 20191028_111539.jpg 20191028_111533.jpg 20191028_101240.jpg 20191028_111424.jpg 20191028_111435.jpg 20191028_111441.jpg
     
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    Last edited: Oct 28, 2019
  12. Andych

    Andych Senior Member Premium Member

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    Wow, that looks like the goods.



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  13. Andych

    Andych Senior Member Premium Member

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    Just the old fashioned hand method. Wet and dry starting at 400 maybe and working up to finer grades.
    Long slow process. Once you get it relatively smooth you can use buffing wheels etc to bring up the shine.


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  14. Andych

    Andych Senior Member Premium Member

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    I only just read about the 4mm tip. The guy in NZ s using 8 and 10 mm so an increase in size might help as well


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  15. Jethalter

    Jethalter Active Member Premium Member

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    I was hoping for anything but that, but i was expecting to do that :-(
     
  16. kiffsta

    kiffsta Administrator Staff Member Dirty Wheel Club Contributing Member

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    Leave the motor in the frame with everything on there , spray with ct18 truck wash and use a decent pressure washer to remove dirt and grime
     
  17. Jethalter

    Jethalter Active Member Premium Member

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    Its not dirt and grime, its heavy oxidization
     
  18. kiffsta

    kiffsta Administrator Staff Member Dirty Wheel Club Contributing Member

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    I blast at 45-60 psi
     
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  19. Murdo

    Murdo The Good Doctor Staff Member Premium Member Ride and Events Crew Contributing Member

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  20. Andych

    Andych Senior Member Premium Member

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    I used Ali-Brite on my rims and they came up reasonably well. I used heavy rubber gloves and scouring pads which worked well.
    Ok for painting but if going to polish you will still need the wet and dry.


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