This section is a guide in resolving issues with your bike. Please note <!-- w --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.Fzr250.com">www.Fzr250.com</a><!-- w --> does not take any responsbility in any way if any damage or injury is occured when following these steps. Please if you are not sure what you are doing, seek professional help from a motorbike mechanic. Oil Seals Thanks to our very useful mate, Trevor for these sizes. He wanted me to load these onto the site bcause they are very useful. Saves time. The sizes are in mm's. Have fun! Front Wheel Oil Seals 45 x 56 x 6 22 x 42 x 7 Front Wheel Bearings 2 x 6302Z Back Wheel Oil Seals 28 x 47 x 7 22 x 35 x 7 Back Wheel Bearings 2 x 6202Z 1 x 6204Z Thanks again to Trevor, good one mate! Carburetor Balancing Thanks to Trevor for this awesome information. To stop any troubles I'll point out now that you should only perform this method of carburetor balancing when the carburetors are off the engine. Reason for saying this is because we don?t want any of you guys/girls to have to try and take the ball bearing out of the engine because it when through the carburetors. To balance the carburetors, Trevor was told a way which works if the carburetors are OFF the bike. He made a stand to hold the carburetors at the same angle as on the bike out of some scrap wood. You could always hold them the same way but using your own method. He then took two ball bearings from a broken bearing housing and put them into carburetor one and two. (The balls must be about 6 mm's as if it is too small, it gets tricky.) Open the throttle arm slowly while keeping an eye on the balls. If they don't go through the butterflies at the same time, adjust the screw until they do. Now do this with carburetor two and three and then three and four. Trevor found this method better than vacuum gauges, as the needle tends to vibrate a lot for him. Trevor has also tried with 4 ball bearings and he told us that it?s not easy watching all 4 go through simultaneously. Also another bit of useful information is with what Trevor has done with his air filtering. Trevor has replaced the original air filter and the gigantic air box with 4 K&N filters. He has also changed the main jets to size 100 to go with the increase of air the K&N filters are providing. Thanks Trevor for your information, I?m sure many people will find it very useful. Changing the Chain / Sprocket Here is a link to a website that has a tutorial on changing the chain and sprockets. The bike is different, however you get the feel of doing it yourself on the FZR. http://www.richard-halford.co.uk Thanks goes to Richard Halford's for this information. There are also lots of other good pictures and information on his website. Eg. Exup Off (http://www.richard-halford.co.uk/racing/results_2003/reports/pics_2003/spring/exup_off.jpg)- image of the entire exup system (he removed it to save weight as when racing one it is rarely below the exup threshold). Adjusting the EXUP Cables http://www.fzr250.com/attachments/howtodocuments/exupcables1.jpg http://www.fzr250.com/attachments/howtodocuments/exupcables2.jpg Adjusting the engine idling speed http://www.fzr250.com/attachments/howtodocuments/idlespeed.jpg Cleaning the Air Filter http://www.fzr250.com/attachments/howtodocuments/cleanairfilter.jpg Brake Pad Replacement To start off with, make sure you get the brake pads you need from any dealer. Replacing brake pads is not a difficult process for disc-brakes, though it can be time consuming your first time. First thing I will say: DO NOT, UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES, PULL/PUSH THE BREAK LEVERS DURING THIS PROCESS. If you do while the brake calipers are not attached to the bike, or while there are no pads on, you will cause the callipers to 'eject' themselves and subsequently you will end up having to find a mechanic to fix this problem. Parts needed are only new brake pads and some brake fluid (dot 4). You will also need a c-clamp and some other basic tools (i.e. allan keys) and a half cm tube about 1 meter long (for bleeding the brakes) Now for the process... (I will focus on changing the rear brake pads - the front takes a near identical process and I will just highlight some minor changes) 1. To tell if your brake pads need replacement, take a look at the spacing between the rattle place (the metal bit that hangs over the pad) and the disc. In the image below it is possible to see that there is minimal distance (see highlighting), indicating that these pads are in need of urgent replacement. http://www.fzr250.com/attachments/brakeimages/rear-brake-beforemarked.jpg 2. I then removed the complete brake caliper set from the main body of the bike by removing the two bolts highlighted. After these bolts are removed the caliper should lift from the disc without much problem. Note: It is at this stage that if you hit the rear brake lever that the callipers will 'eject', so don't do it! (I was told this, and trusted this, I did not want to take the chance!) http://www.fzr250.com/attachments/brakeimages/rear-completemarked.jpg http://www.fzr250.com/attachments/brakeimages/rear-brakeremoved.jpg 3. After removing the callipers, I then removed the pegs that keep the pads in place. You can see this in the last image (the one with the hand). After this the brakepads were relatively straight forward to remove - just pull them out. http://www.fzr250.com/attachments/brakeimages/newVSoldPads.jpg The image above shows just how bad my rear pads were at this point. You can even see that I was down to the metal on one of the pads (a very bad thing, but it wasn't my fault - I had only bought the bike 1 month before!!!) 4 .The next step is the 'fiddly one'. You have to pry open the brake drums within the brake itself. To do this I opened the bleeding valves on top of the brake (two small screws with a hole in them), then inserted a standard c-clamp (it worked for me). Do not pry them too quickly - take your time! I put a cloth between the caliper head and the outside of the brake so I don't scratch anything. http://www.fzr250.com/attachments/brakeimages/rear-cClamp.jpg Repeat this to get both sides. Note: on the front you will have 2 brake pistons on either side. means that you will have to repeat this process 4 times - 2 on each side of the brake 5. After the brake calipers are pryed open again, you can proceed to insert the new brake pads and essentially go backwards through the steps to put it all back together again. 6. IMPORTANT STEP. You may think you are done now, but no you are not. The brakes will likely not work now as there is no pressure in the brake tubes. You must now bleed the brake lines until you get nice clean brake fluid coming out. To bleed the brakes - attach the 'bleeding tube' to the closest bleeding valve first (ensuring that the other valve is closed)(the front only has one so that makes it easy - the rear has 2). Pump the brake until you start to see nice clean brake fluid coming out without ANY air in the hose. When you see this hold the brake lever down, close the valve, then release the brake lever. Repeat for each valve. Important: while you are doing this you must also ensure that the brake fluid resevoir is full at all times. If it is not then you will put air in the lines again and you will lose your brakes because of that 7. TEST YOUR BRAKES BEFORE YOU RIDE. PUSH THE BIKE AND PRESS THE BRAKE LEVERS TO ENSURE THEY ARE WORKING. IF THEY SEEM TO BE THEN TRY A SLOW RIDE AND SEE HOW THEY COMPARE. NEW BRAKE PADS WILL NOT BE AS STRONG AS THE OLD ONES INITIALLY - ABOUT 100 km's AFTER REPLACEMENT THEY WILL BE UP TO FULL WORKING POWER AGAIN http://www.fzr250.com/attachments/brakeimages/rear-complete.jpg Thanks goes to Boz for this article If you wish to add any How To sections, please feel free to email me at <!-- e --><a href="mailtoean@Fzr250.com">Dean@Fzr250.com</a><!-- e -->
