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Help FZR 250R 3LN1 Model Blue Black - colour scheme

Discussion in 'Yamaha 250cc In-Line 4's' started by Rahyvin, Aug 4, 2020.

  1. Rahyvin

    Rahyvin Member Premium Member

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    Hi all

    I'm working through getting my FZR up and running and have been making some progress on the bike

    • fitted new battery. Turned key - Oil and neutral light came on - hurray. Exup motor went through the motions. fuel pump clicked. baby steps.......
    • Started with Oil and filter change. old oil was black & murky but no water or any crud as such from what came out. Two small problems. exhaust header studs - are very rusty, one on #3 cylinder snapped... grrr. Bracket guiding the exup section to the engine came apart when I dropped the headers - ! not a good start. Gotta get out the welder.
    • Cleaned Air Filter - I noticed that the airbox does not sit tightly against the air guide to the carbs - seems to be a common problem on these. Is there a gasket that needs to go in this section? doesnt seem to be listed in the parts??
    • removed front wheel - original had been cracked (red circle) and unsuccesfuly welded. got a replacement one and sent to a local guy for spraying.
    • wheel small.jpg
    bike on stands small.jpg
    So many next steps, but one longer term one I was looking for some help with was the decals on the fairings. The ones on the seat are good. I'd like the bike to be as close to the original as possible. Any ideas on where these can be got from? or has anyone got dimensions of them and recommendations on material to use? or would it be best to simply spray in the colour section and get some standard Yamaha and FZRR decals?

    bike should look like this (hopefully!)

    FZR 250 Blue Grey.jpg
    thanks!
     
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  2. my67xr

    my67xr Bike Enthusiast Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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  3. Rahyvin

    Rahyvin Member Premium Member

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    thanks will take a look
     
  4. Rahyvin

    Rahyvin Member Premium Member

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    Hi there.

    Been a while since I posted, so I thought I'd put together a few posts and bring people up to date. Been many an interesting battle with the FZR. Being parked up for 20years in the nice irish climate makes sure stuff gets rusted together well!

    anyway full tear down done: 20210208_183207.jpg

    Engine out. Gonna give it a good clean then re-spray.

    Will check the valve clearances as well.

    20201211_093738.jpg
    Forks done:

    20201119_192400.jpg

    Keyster Carb kits sourced - just got them b4 Brexit kicked in.....
    20210220_213507.jpg

    I bought myself some JIS screwdrives, put a brew on, cleared the kitchen table and had a go at disassembling the carbs...

    20210220_170004.jpg

    did run into one real problem though as the Carb 2 pilot jet was trashed before I even got to it. Not sure how I can get out the brass jet. Its completely rung inside..... any ideas?:help:
    pilot jet damaged.JPG

    Many thanks to everyone on the site that has shared so much information on these screamers. Looking forward to putting it all back together
    cheers:thumb_ups:
     
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  5. ruckusman

    ruckusman White Mans Magic Master Premium Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    Just a note - the Keyster kits will have the main jets reversed (incorrect) in the kits.

    The inner main jets are smaller than the outer main jets when correctly installed
     
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  6. Rahyvin

    Rahyvin Member Premium Member

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    thanks bud!
     
  7. ruckusman

    ruckusman White Mans Magic Master Premium Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    Carbs disassembled on the kitchen table - I like the cut of your jib,remindes me of when I put the whipper snipper motor through the dishwasher

    Is the head completely mangled so that you cannot get purchase with a flat blade screw driver?

    For the stuck jet, if the carbs were gunked up with varnish from dried out petrol, try a little petrol in a small jar and soak with occasional swooshing - BTW don't confuse the petrol with salad dressing afterwards

    Past that, a tiny bit of citric acid and boil it, the aluminium will expand more - welding glove or equivalent to have a go at it then or a heat gun/hair dryer

    Otherwise a small drill, compare potential drill sizes with the replacement jets, no you're not going to drill the head off, drill 3-4mm or so down into the head of the jet, then get a slightly larger sized Torx driver, tap it in and see if you can unscrew it, you may even be able to find one suitable to go into the recess which is already there in the jet without the need to resort to a drill at all
     
  8. Rahyvin

    Rahyvin Member Premium Member

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    Yep, herself was like... "really, this carb job needs to be done in the house??" I was like yep! so away I went :)

    Is the head completely mangled so that you cannot get purchase with a flat blade screw driver? - Not quite. It looks like there is a small slot left but it has been mangled. I spotted it when I took out the float bowl and floats. there were small marks on the outside of the jet housing where it looked like someone (not me!) had used a pliers to grip the outside of the housing. There was also slight damage to the main jet slot, but I was able to get this one out.

    I will try those tips on the heat, petrol and citric acid. after so much work I want this to succeed

    thanks again for advice!
     
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  9. Rahyvin

    Rahyvin Member Premium Member

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    one other one I noticed this morning is that that the inner jet seal that came with the kit does not match what is in the FZR.

    see image below. fzr 250r inner seal.PNG

    I'm fairly sure I got the correct carb kit.

    do these have to be sourced seperately from LiteTek?

    thanks
     
  10. Linkin

    Linkin The Apprentice Premium Member Dirty Wheel Club Contributing Member

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  11. Rahyvin

    Rahyvin Member Premium Member

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    The bike is definitely a 3LN1 and I'm fairly certain it is all standard as my brother was the first owner outside of Japan... unless stuff was changed before he brought it in. He brought it in about 20years ago and its been idle for about 17 years in a shed at my home place

    Carbs are for a 3lN1 as the idle screw (blue arrow) is attached directly to the carbs.

    idle screw.PNG

    Image of jet housing and carb itself side by side (carb #1) shown. This seems to align with the images of the 3LN1 carbs in the link you posted

    fzr 250r inner seal carb 1 1.jpg

    I'm suspecting the issue may be the Carb Kits I got from NRP. The box may be labelled as 3LN1 but the contents may be from one of the other models.
    keyster.PNG

    anyone had an issue with Keyster components not matching what was in the box?
     
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  12. manynathans

    manynathans Member Premium Member

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    Out of curiosity does your bike have an internal oil filter in the sump or a screw on filter on the side near the left foot peg assembly?

    I am also from Ireland and have a 3LN1 import, in theory it should have the sump with an internal oil filter and an oil level switch, however mine has a sum with external filter and oil prssure switch, this should only have been fitted from 3LN3 onwards. No engine number of course being an import. I havent opened up the carbs on mine yet but I got both variants of the rubber part you mention above just in case.
     
  13. Rahyvin

    Rahyvin Member Premium Member

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    Nice to meet someone else from Ireland. Yes mine has the internal oil filter so the exhaust headers have to be dropped to change the filter. It sounds like you have a 3LN3 Engine. What is the chasis number on the headstock. you can check in

    https://www.2fiftycc.com/index.php?...zr250-bodywork-frame-engine-carburetors.3469/

    did you get the seals from NRP or Litetek or Ebay?
     
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  14. ruckusman

    ruckusman White Mans Magic Master Premium Member Dirty Wheel Club

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  15. manynathans

    manynathans Member Premium Member

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    Going by chassis number mine should still have a 3ln1 engine. Its possible of course that the engine has been changed at some point although I believe the oil light was functioning correctly before the bike was stripped. Looking at the way the level and pressure switches function the oil light should have been on all the time if a 3ln3 engine engne was fitted to a 3ln1 chassis. It will be interesting to see what carbs are fitted when I get round to opening them up
     
  16. Linkin

    Linkin The Apprentice Premium Member Dirty Wheel Club Contributing Member

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    Ok, the jet housing seal pictured is not for a 3LN1, but for a 3LN3/5/6/7.

    Were the kits sealed? Either someone has returned it to the supplier, or it was an error in packaging.
     
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  17. GreyImport

    GreyImport Administrator Staff Member The Chief Contributing Member

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    Incorrect items in those Keyster kits seems a regular thing

    I heard Stevie Wonders love children work in the packaging department

    Jet housings difference.jpg

    Litetek for the win
     
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  18. Rahyvin

    Rahyvin Member Premium Member

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    Yes the kits were sealed, although I noticed that in each box the plastic keyster bags had part numbers in hand written felt tip markers on the outside. So maybe they sent the wrong ones. I will query it with them. Thanks
     
  19. Rahyvin

    Rahyvin Member Premium Member

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    NRP carbs in the UK are going to send me the correct seals free of charge! Great customer service.

    Started reassembly of the frame.... and cant find the rear shock top bolt... was there a few hrs ago... ah well big search of the shed tomorrow..

    fzr frame assembly missing bolt.JPG
     
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  20. Rahyvin

    Rahyvin Member Premium Member

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    Anybody know where a chain guide can be bought? The one on the bike has a little life left in it but its nearly in two pieces at this point. Or is there an alternative part people have come across?
     

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