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FZR 2KR WONT REV OVER 10000 WHEN IN GEAR

Discussion in 'Yamaha 250cc In-Line 4's' started by Aerojake, Mar 24, 2015.

  1. Joker

    Joker See "about me" for contact details. Contributing Member

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  2. maelstrom

    maelstrom LiteTek Staff Member Premium Member 250cc Vendor Contributing Member

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  3. Aerojake

    Aerojake Member

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    Ok guys just after float height and fuel level figures,
    someone told me 17.5mm-19.5mm is an ok float height.
    is this measured from the bowl lip ? if it is that would be dramatically higher than what it is set on now which is about 10mm except for floats 3-4 which were at about 5-6mm
    im thinking 10-11mm from the bowl lip to top of floats
    and a fuel level of 9mm-10.5mm from the casting line on the float bowl.
    can anyone clarify this for me PLEASE.

    I think in the last 2 days of searching iv'e heard of 101 different ways to measure float height im so confused lol I thought the ruler method from bowl lip to top of floats was universally excepted lol
     
  4. Joker

    Joker See "about me" for contact details. Contributing Member

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    Google is your friend dude, hope this helps. Not quite the same bike but it's the principles you're after. Just do whatever works, you want uniformity in the result - not necessarily the method.

     
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  5. maelstrom

    maelstrom LiteTek Staff Member Premium Member 250cc Vendor Contributing Member

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    The float height is the method for horizontal carburettors. For downdraft carburettors it is mostly fuel level that is given. The 2KR manual shows the fuel level as 17.5 to 19.5 NOT float level. Is that correct? Perhaps. The 2KR was the model that the manual was written for. In some manuals the pictures/diagrams for where these levels are measured from is incorrect; see my fuel level guide for BDST carbs (not the same as yours) to see some of the anomalies that occur.
    http://www.litetek.co/Guide_Mikuni_BDST_Fuel_Level.html
    I have to add that the tangs on every float that I have ever seen are always straight (parallel to the float arms). I have never seen one that was not except where someone has changed it. It would be worthwhile to ask @Murdo for his opinion on that as he has a lot of experience.
    cheers
    Blair
     
  6. Aerojake

    Aerojake Member

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    Well that bunch of information certainly cleared some things up I wish someone told me that 2 days ago lol.
    I was thinking that everyone that was telling me 17-19mm is the float height was actually the fuel level as its near on impossible to bend the tabs enough to gain 17mm, I did end up bending them back to 10.5mm and as you said sets the float arms pretty much dead straight.
    rsz_20150409_191427.jpg


    10.5mm was where carbs 1-2 were at when I first pulled them, carb 3 at 5mm and carb 4 at 6mm. But there all at the same level now so im hoping that the fuel level reading comes back ok .

    So assuming the carbs are back on the bike the fuel is ON and I have clear hose connected I should be looking at a reading somewhere around this black line rsz_120150409_204820.jpg
     
  7. maelstrom

    maelstrom LiteTek Staff Member Premium Member 250cc Vendor Contributing Member

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    Not according to the manual page that I have. Do you have the manual page from the resources section? I think it is page 26 of part 2.
     
  8. Aerojake

    Aerojake Member

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    Nah ATM I dont have permission to download anything from the resources section.
     
  9. GreyImport

    GreyImport Administrator Staff Member The Chief Contributing Member

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  10. Aerojake

    Aerojake Member

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    Although according to another member from over at netrider what he said regarding the fuel level.
    (It is not something that changes much in use in motorcycle carburettors unless one of the floats develops a leak, or the seat and needle develop wear. Both of these result in flooding. It would be one of the least likely things to go out of spec.)

    All I did was pull it apart and gave it a clean messed with the floats a little so if the above is correct I shouldn't have anything to worry about unless it is of-coarse a dodgy fuel level from the beginning causing the bike not to rev past the 10k mark.
     
  11. Aerojake

    Aerojake Member

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    ok so I take it my fuel level should be at where I have placed the red line 2kr.jpg
     
  12. maelstrom

    maelstrom LiteTek Staff Member Premium Member 250cc Vendor Contributing Member

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    Correct and correct. It cannot bend the tang by itself, but never underestimate the ability of previous owners to mess things up.
     
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  13. Aerojake

    Aerojake Member

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    Hey Guys,
    Ended up finding out that the fuel level needs to be on the bottom line in pic 2 which is 17.5mm from the top line.
    So I reassembled carbs and put them in the bike with a little trouble from them bloody airbox boots!!! checked the fuel level and it was spot on she took for ever to start and had to be running for a while before it'd hold idle properly theres also a bit of lag at 1/4 throttle but once moving theres no lag im betting a idle mixture adjustment would sort out the lag at idle think its @ 1/4 turn out atm.
    I took her for a spin and its now revving up to red line and man what a difference so much more fun I cant believe that a 250 could have so much punch definitely a race orientated bike. Think I pulled 80kmh out of first which is alot better than the 45kmh I was getting before.

    BIG thank you to everyone for helping me sort this out.
     
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  14. Joker

    Joker See "about me" for contact details. Contributing Member

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    1/4 turn out is very, very lean dude - you're almost there!

    Just be careful you don't start to hear pinging...
     
  15. maelstrom

    maelstrom LiteTek Staff Member Premium Member 250cc Vendor Contributing Member

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    Yes, Jake that makes sense. If you look at all the fuel levels for the BDST carbs you see they are in roughly the same place.
    Like Stu said 1/4 turn is way too lean for a pilot screw. Something wrong there.
     
  16. Linkin

    Linkin The Mechanic Premium Member Contributing Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    The stock setting is 2 and a half turns out, set them to that and try again
     
  17. Aerojake

    Aerojake Member

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    haha sorry guys I meant to say the pilot screw is 1-1/2 turns out dont know why I said 1/4 lol
    though I think it needs to be out a little more maybe 2-1/2 as Linkin says I have
    some slight rev hang and the idle speed very slowly dies out.
     
  18. Linkin

    Linkin The Mechanic Premium Member Contributing Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    Also remember you need to adjust the main idle when the bike is hot, to 1300-1600RPM. A bit hard when the tacho starts at 3000 rpm.
     
  19. Aerojake

    Aerojake Member

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    yeah I had that trouble before I pulled the carbs but its fairly easy to guesstimate after some practice. :)
     
  20. Bluey

    Bluey Well-Known Member

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    Great job !!
    Must feel good to do it all your self.
    I took mine to the mechanics still Learning and I was making it worse....
     

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