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Project FZR150 Bucket race motor

Discussion in 'Other Projects - Other Bikes (non 250's)' started by gregt, Aug 14, 2016.

  1. gregt

    gregt Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    Well, this project isn't dead. Nor am I. Post major surgery - replumbed and with electronic ignition fitted - I'm back into work.
    Had a backlog of engines to do and to get myself moving i pulled out and restored my old F3 EX500 Kawasaki. That's done and running so it's work on the little Yam while waiting for engine parts for an RC30 and a race CBR600.

    Pipes are made - short, stepped and separate. Small alloy mufflers fitted. Hanging under the motor there's sfa to hang the mufflers on - RHS is hung off the bottom two screws on the clutch cover, LHS off the rear waterpump screw. Not ideal but the mufflers are very light.
    Bullet has been bitten and a non exup ignition box ordered from Alibaba. None of the 3 boxes I scored gave a spark.
    In-frame box tank has been fabricated in 16G alloy and is away for stage 1 welding. When it's done, I'll make the fittings and mounts.
    Clutch and throttle cables sourced, bars generally sorted - nylon ends made, grips fitted etc.
    Instruments to be mounted along with the OE top fairing I bought.

    Still a long way to go - but progress is being made.
     
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  2. ruckusman

    ruckusman Well-Known Member Premium Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    Glad to see you back and at it
     
  3. gregt

    gregt Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    Okay - fairing mounts are done,instrument mount included, Sorting the wiring that has to remain on the instrument pack,
    By my reckoning it's five wires to a plug.

    Power in - to tacho,oil light and neutral light,
    Earth - tacho.
    Grey from coils for tacho.
    Power out to neutral switch
    Power out to oil sender unit.

    Which raises a small problem. I've used the early sump with filter underneath - and an oil level sender...
    I really want a pressure warning so need the later sender in circuit - but where to put it ?

    My answer at this point is going to have to be make up a double decker fitting for the banjo bolt on the front of the cases.
    This is on the end of a gallery direct from the pump - and of course feeds the head galleries.
    It's out of the way if it goes down the road and I have rubber covers here for those fittings.

    I must find out from the wife how she manages pics on this computer - it's hers - and get some current pics up.
     
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  4. gregt

    gregt Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    Fitting duly made. Found a suitable piece of hex steel in the scrap box - a long nut which started life as a Norton twin head fastener. Throw nothing away...
    The penny dropped also that I'd forgotten the temp gauge. It uses the common power feed and earth but has it's own wire to the sender unit. So six wires in the plug.
    Probably make up a stand for the thing tomorrow. Take some pics too. If we get a good still day, there's a seat to paint...
     
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  5. gregt

    gregt Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    This is where it stands now. Tank away for welding, loom to make up. Ignition still to arrive.
    Black wasn't my preference. The top fairing looked silver/grey on trademe - and the tinted screen, wasn't...Still, it was cheapish.
    Bear in mind I got a bare frame with brakes and bars - plus a chopped about stock rear subframe with a horrible rough fiberglass seat. But free.
     
  6. maelstrom

    maelstrom LiteTek Staff Member Premium Member 250cc Vendor Contributing Member

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    Got any pics Greg?
     
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  7. gregt

    gregt Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    Yes - but the site won't accept them. My camera works on an unsupported browser. Pics have to be put on another computer, edited and put on a flash drive for transfer to this computer....The site accepts them in that it gets to 100% indication - then informs me there is a problem and rejects them.
    I can't expect your hosting service to keep accomodating out of date software.
    So further updates can be viewed on Kiwibiker forum. Bucket racing section. The sensible twin thread.

    From an FZR250 owner/tuner's point of view, the only remaining bit of useful info would be a dyno chart...and that is still some way away.
     
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  8. Linkin

    Linkin The Apprentice Premium Member Dirty Wheel Club Contributing Member

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    Consider uploading pictures to imgur.com after editing their size down. Then all you have to do is copy and paste the link
     
  9. GreyImport

    GreyImport Administrator Staff Member The Chief Contributing Member

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    bucket 3.JPG bucket 1.JPG bucket 2.JPG
     
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  10. Andych

    Andych Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    Very nice work so far... It will be nice to hear it run :)
     
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  11. gregt

    gregt Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    Thank you very hard for posting that - and yes, I'd also like to hear it run.

    I have an electrical question for the brains trust.
    I've received a new 2KR ignitor box - ex Alibaba...and have completed the wiring.
    All the appropriate lights come on, even the temp gauge moves...But the fuel pump doesn't make a sound.

    Ny understanding - and the way I've wired it - is that the pump gets power from the relay - which is triggered
    by the blue wire from the ignitor. It bench tests fine, power and earth both connected, flick power to the blue wire in
    and away it goes.
    There's power going in to the ignitor but no readout of power available at the blue wire connection.

    Is there any other condition to be met in order to get power to the pump ? It actually has it's own earth FYI.

    I haven't yet tested for spark as the correct plug caps are arriving next week. If it sparks but won't work the pump as designed
    I can live with that. Simply eliminate the relay so the pump goes live when the power is switched on
     
  12. gregt

    gregt Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    Got a spark...So it's rewire the fuel pump to eliminate the relay.
    The pump I know is pressure sensitive so will only run when it has to.

    So there you go. A new 2KR ignitor ex China with a problem.

    Next job is to convert the semi downdraft NSR carbs to full downdraft mode.
    I've got an idea how it'll be done, this could change as is uisual, LOL....
     
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  13. gregt

    gregt Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    Still progressing. Life gets in the way at times.
    It's a runner. Lot of dicking around with the carbs. I finished up making a 15 degreee adaptor plate in solid alloy.
    The ports are round at the top and oval at the head - roughly 15mm extra length. Not too bad.
    Standard - non Yamaha - round carb rubber mounts for the Keihins.
    So they're about 15 deg up from where they are on an NSR - but 15 down from where I'd like them. 72 deg downdraft.
    But as an NSR owner can tell you, understanding the air bleeds was key. These have three. Main - fixed orifice. Pilot - adjustable air screw. And the powerjet bleed into the main emulsion tube area. A fixed size on these early carbs.
    I eventually twigged that blocking the PJ air bleeds was needed. It ran....And takes throttle even....

    But....the tacho isn't working. AFAIK it's a 3LN instrument pack. The temp gauge, oil and neutral light all work so there's power there. There's continuity on the earth wire and the grey wire to the coil.

    Does anyone have a test procedure or test values for resistance across the tacho connections ? I've searched and can't find anything.

    thanks
     
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  14. gregt

    gregt Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    And relax...Buffed the corrosion off the terminals at the back of the tacho - and it works.

    Blips to an indicated 10 grand smoothly on the stand. Still feels a little lean so I'll try bigger mains before test riding it.
    Won't idle below about 3 grand. Not surprising given there's next to no crank weight, the big inlet cam and big carbs.

    Not too loud with those pipes either thankfully.
     
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  15. gregt

    gregt Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    Interesting problem now - to which there are solutions I must choose between....

    Oil leak from the front of the cam cover. Investigation reveals an oversupply of oil for the drainage provided.
    I'm sending the full amount of oil upstairs - as for the full head - while only having a half head.
    Quart into a pint pot as they say.Or used to.

    I have to choose between an even smaller restrictor in the banjo bolt feeding the head - undesirable IMO as the smaller it is the more prone to block it becomes..
    Or adding an external drain from the front of the head - taking it off high enough to not starve the cam/bucket interface - running it down between the pipes and around to feed into the plate blanking off top of the L/H case.
    Pretty sure I can drill and tap both ends of it without disassembly and without filling it with swarf...

    Engine is out on the bench with the cams out at present. All looks good so far.

    I'll think about this over the weekend while at a race meeting.
     
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  16. my67xr

    my67xr Bike Enthusiast Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    Option 2 sounds better to me
     
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