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Help FZR250 - coolant leak in hardline behind block/head

Discussion in 'Yamaha 250cc In-Line 4's' started by skylinerd1, May 4, 2019.

  1. skylinerd1

    skylinerd1 Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    Checked the valve clearances all looked about mid way on the required spec so pretty good. I think the top end is pretty tidy looking allround.

    Only issue is while doing all this I managed to break one of the spark plug boots off the wire... it looked old and coroded inside anyway so probably due. Has anyone found a good source for ignition wires for these? Oh wait does the ignition wire just sit in the boot theres no actual hard connection so it probably fine if I just stick it back in?? IMG_20190609_131742[1].jpg
     

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    Last edited: Jun 9, 2019
  2. Linkin

    Linkin The Apprentice Premium Member Dirty Wheel Club Contributing Member

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    The boots are a screw on fit... you can cut back the corroded part, clean out the boot, then push on and screw in the boot to the wire. Unless it actually broke.
     
  3. skylinerd1

    skylinerd1 Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    Ok think I got the boot back in there. Ended up having to kinda pilot hole it with a small drill before screwing it in there. Checked it for spark and its good.

    Sealed the tank with por15 so hopefully that helps the carb rebuild last as long as possible without getting full of junk.

    Can anyone advise on where to buy the 3ln1 oil filter O ring for the housing its quite a big thick one. I might try a bearing shop tomorrow or ring yamaha and see if they can supply it. All the seal rubbers on this thing are past it.
     
  4. my67xr

    my67xr Bike Enthusiast Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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  5. GreyImport

    GreyImport Administrator Staff Member The Big Cheese Contributing Member

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    Yea it fits a ton of bikes ... just use the part number at the dealer .... if u mention its for a 30yr old bike they usually dont want to know you

    put a bit of rubber grease or Inox or wateva on it before u install it
     
  6. skylinerd1

    skylinerd1 Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    Just had it running/idling for first time since I gave it this birthday.

    Other than a leaky fuel tap due to me ordering the wrong o ring its fine.

    I just need to tune it a bit more. What do people find for dialing these in. I have so far ended up with the pilot screws on each carb 1.5 turns back in from the starting point stated at 3 turns out. Is it normal to go in more than that or do I just keep going 1/2 a turn in until it gets that nice snappy kick to the engine when you twist the throttle? At the moment it tends to bog down but is way better than at 3 turns out. Im thinking fix the fuel tap leak and give it another 1/2 turn on the pilot screws and see how it runs there.
     
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  7. skylinerd1

    skylinerd1 Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    **** this fuel tap!!!

    Can anyone point me in the direction of a BRAND NEW fuel tap? Im over this fuckin thing no idea why its leaking.

    Brand new yamaha O ring and the **** is still leaking? Am I missing something obvious?

    All I can think is somehow its not getting pushed into the housing right. There is a plastic shim under the fastener plate with res, on etc....

    Anyway bought a new one. Will fiddle with this old one over the next two weeks while I wait for the new one to come in.
     
    Last edited: Jun 14, 2019 at 9:31 AM
  8. GreyImport

    GreyImport Administrator Staff Member The Big Cheese Contributing Member

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  9. maelstrom

    maelstrom LiteTek Staff Member Premium Member 250cc Vendor Contributing Member

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    The o-ring goes in the base of the tap like this.
    OR-048_Fitted.jpg
     
  10. skylinerd1

    skylinerd1 Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    Yep thats how I had it. Someone has handmade a packer or shim to for the retainer plate so the tap pushes down onto that gasket. Thing I dont know is how thick its meant to be? Strange thing is I put it back on again now and it doesnt appear to be leaking this time....

    I think that packer shim needs to be slightly thicker delrin type plastic just to give it that little bit more compression on to the seal.

    Yes I replaced both the orings. The one I got from litetek was I suspect the wrong one. Its thinner than the o ring I have in there now. So I have one viton FT-003 and then a genuine yamaha seal which measured identical to the one I took out of it because the litetek one wasnt right (Edit: deff my fault for ordering the wrong one).


    Anyway it wasnt leaking for long enough for me to run the bike and try tune it a bit more. Has anyone had to change out their pilot screws for one size up (bigger?) ones? What im getting is almost bottoming the screws out and thats where it almost runs right. Its like I dont have quite enough adjustment in the current pilot screw to quite get it running right before each cylinder cuts out on me with just a fraction of a turn before it bottoms out.

    So as it sits it just has the slightest hesitation in the engine reving up when you quickly twist the throttle.
     
    Last edited: Jun 14, 2019 at 3:54 PM
  11. maelstrom

    maelstrom LiteTek Staff Member Premium Member 250cc Vendor Contributing Member

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    The OEM part 3AJ-24534-00 is exactly the same thickness as our OR-048. Which is what you ordered.
    Here is the genuine Yamaha part. 3AJ-24534-00
    DSCN4489.JPG
    and here is our OR-048
    DSCN4490.JPG

    The 3LN1 tap uses part 1JK-24534-00 (our OR-049) which has a cross section of 2.05mm
     
    Last edited: Jun 14, 2019 at 3:18 PM
  12. maelstrom

    maelstrom LiteTek Staff Member Premium Member 250cc Vendor Contributing Member

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    You cannot change the pilot screws. As you wind the pilot screws in you are closing off the air-fuel feed for the pilot circuit. It indicates that you are running rich so you would need to fit smaller pilot jets.
     
  13. skylinerd1

    skylinerd1 Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    Yep thats what I thought. My bad on that no big deal.

    I think I need a slightly thicker shim to put a bit more pressure on the oring to make sure it seals.
     
  14. maelstrom

    maelstrom LiteTek Staff Member Premium Member 250cc Vendor Contributing Member

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    If no one else has the plastic washer that you referred to and/or the need for a thicker shim to avoid tap leaking problems then your plastic washer is redundant. Please check the face of the tap handle as myself and other forum members have seen them damaged.
     
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  15. skylinerd1

    skylinerd1 Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    Ok I get you on the pilot screw not being changeable that makes sense...

    Are you sure about it running rich by winding that screw in should be leaner shouldnt it?

    I pulled a plug as im now having trouble restarting it at even 1 turn out. The plug is dry and white on the tip. Its lean.



    I will try again tomorrow start at 3 turns out and go another half turn to full turn out to 4 turns out and see what happens.

    Yep pretty sure my pilot screws are configured as per the pic above. I dont think I messed that up. I will pull one tomorrow and double check it.
     
    Last edited: Jun 14, 2019 at 3:46 PM
  16. GreyImport

    GreyImport Administrator Staff Member The Big Cheese Contributing Member

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  17. maelstrom

    maelstrom LiteTek Staff Member Premium Member 250cc Vendor Contributing Member

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  18. maelstrom

    maelstrom LiteTek Staff Member Premium Member 250cc Vendor Contributing Member

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    Having to wind the pilot screws in means that it is running rich and you are turning the screws in to make it leaner. Which why I said that you would need smaller pilot jets.
     
  19. skylinerd1

    skylinerd1 Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    Yep ok I understand I just misread how you were defining that. Now that I reread what you said.....

    So the current pilot jet is a #10. Where and what size do you guys suggest I go about ordering a smaller one? I cant even steal one out of the zeal carb set as they are a #12.5

    Should I be looking for a #8 if such a thing exists?

    Or do I need to look at changing other jets to and should order a "kit" of options?

    I do have a wideband to which I can put in the tail pipe never "tuned" carbs before im an EFI guy.
     
  20. maelstrom

    maelstrom LiteTek Staff Member Premium Member 250cc Vendor Contributing Member

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    Changing the jets to compensate for your running rich problem is not a good idea, unless some numpty has drilled them.
    About your fuel tap, I am not familiar with them but @Linkin said " That's a 2GH fuel tap, the older style"
    The older tap for 3LN1 uses this gasket
    FuelTap_Seal_FT-004.jpg
     

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