when i go up gears it some times spit's it back.When i go up gears quik it sounds like it just goes into netraul and then rev's and grinds.
That doesn't sound good. Worn dogs on the gears (BAD, engine out and complete dismantle and repair) or a problem with the selector mechanism (not so bad, prob fix without removing engine). Does the gear lever feel like it is doing full travel? Does it do it when you hold pressure on lever longer when changing gears?
Are you pre-loading the shifter before the shift? Pulling in the clutch all the way and not trying clutchless up-shifts?
hrmm picking up on the old topic. I think i have excatly the same problem... except my is probably worse. This weekend i rode my bike a few times. and it stalled on me while shifting everytime. what happened: I let go the cluth from a complete stop, red light or stop sign, to get moving. once the bike is rolling and the cluth is completely free. i tried to shift into 2nd gear with clutch clutched-in. once cluthed-in, i apply pressure on the shifter, and when i thought i've made the shift (now that i think about it, the bike might not hvae clicked, rather i thought it clicked ), i would let the clutch go and throttle up. But i wouldn't hear or feel the bike rev up and the engine just stalls. and i would coast a bit (3-5 meters) while the engine would sound like its out of gas, which it isn't. i think the engine noise is just the pistons turning over by the momentmem. now i thinnk about it, i was just in panic mode at the intersection. i would cluth in and try to make the shift and rev up again, but all i heard was the engine making this dying noise which made me think that the problem is the gears no meshing. this also happened to me going from 2nd to 3rd as well. keeping in mind that i usually shift when i've picked up the rev, i.e. 6-8k from 1st to 2nd... and between 8k to 10 k from 2nd to 3rd... i like to keep the engine rev low, usually stays between 8 - 10... i found the engine being very loud in the high ends. adn the road speed limit is low... could it be just me making somehow really newbie shifts stalling the bike, or possiblely something else, like gear box stalling the engine by staying inbetween 2nd and 3rd? anyway to make sure? b.t.w. the last time this happened, late at night, i saw smoke coming out from the front wheel, but i couldn't jump off the bike and check on the side of the street.... the only thing that i could think off is the raditor leaking and the coolant is steamed off on the exhaust... but i double check in on the return trip, while idling, and i check after 10 minutes of ride. the rad was dry and nothing was leaking. Thanks ahead. dave
The only thing I can think of would be the side stand switch might be disturbed by the action of you changing gears by your foot.. That would make the engine cut out... Get the back wheel off the ground and run the bike through the gears and give the sidestand a bit of a nudge to see if the bike cuts out.. 2KR models don't have side stand switches but yours (3LN) does.. Front wheel smoke/steam - Keep an eye on the overflow bottle under the seat to make sure the level is not dropping... and also have a careful feel around the front wheel for any hot spots after a ride (wheel bearings, brakes,etc)
No. I have a trade certificate "ELECTRICAL MECHANIC" - in common terms "electrician".. I have also done endorsement trade as "Instrument Technician" which makes me dual trade electrician.. But I have been working around my own cars for 35 years. Rebuilt my first engine at 18 (holden "red" motor 186). But at the time I learnt a lot from the guy at the local BP servo who was most obliging. Let me use his tools, hoist, oxy, etc.. Servo is long gone now but he is still alive, must be well in his 70's or 80's now, see him around and have a chat from time to time..
haha... i figure what the problem is... yesterday i took my bike for a long ride again on purpose. i paid close attention to how i was shifiting... tried to be as smooth as possible. and excat same thing happened after 30 minutes on the bike. the excat same thing happened, i would throttle and the engine barely revs and eventually stalls. It just kept on doing the same thing. And when the bike stalls, it didn't stall suddenly and stop as you normal would by letting the clutch out too fast; it rolled to stall. so i was stuck on the side of the street trying to get the bike rolling, everything i does it, i could hear the clincking engine noise, i thought my bike is done.. so i pulled over to the side of the street, put the bike in netural and it revs fine, the rpm is steady, and i could get it to 12k in neutral. so i thought the transmission was ******, tried to start in 2nd, but the bike just does normal stalling. (p.s. i have started in 2nd gear before ) the last thing i did was turning the bike off for a thorough inspection.. found nothing, let the bike cool down. when i got on the bike, i could hear the funny bubbling noise made by the fuel pump when it straves for fuel, the fuel valve was at "on" so i thought it didn't make any sense, check the fuel again, about 1/3 tank left. but anyway, did the neutral to first stalling again. And at this point it came to my mind that when i throttle why weren't the engine just rev really low and slow.... so no fuel.... finally i turned the fuel switch to reserve, and the bike went fine all the way to home... on my way home, i finally realized why the seller just kept the fuel switch at reserve, i should have asked my friend to turn it to on position when testing... but anyway... i'm glad that these aren't internal problems... should be a piece of cake for me thanks again. oh yeah dave, since you are en electrian, you might be able to tell me a thing or two about this mod on my bike... the previous owner had two digital display in place of the dial thermal meter... one of them is temp display and the other doesn't really work, so i want to remove the thing that doesn't work, and when i trace the wires to a taped up junction, i could only see "old wires" on the other side of the juntion, and the wires from the non-working digital display is new and on the other side... i want to figure oem power is it sharing... how do i trace the eletrical diagram not knowing the wiring colour <!-- s:???: --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_confused.gif" alt=":???:" title="Confused" /><!-- s:???: -->
Unfortunately I am not psychic... Your wiring sounds like a nightmare. Almost impossible to diagnose the non working bit without knowing what it has been done for. You will have to figure it out the hard way.. Sorry Was it just co-incidental that you ran out of petrol when you changed to 2nd gear.. strange.. At least you found it..
lol no... sry my message was very long.. so long story short. the fuel pickup inside the main fuel tank is partially blocked. No problem with gears. When the odd stalling was happening, i was "using" the fuel from the main tank. I was able to rev the engine high in neutral because the engine was running very lean without load. It wasn't making enough power to do the work required to move the bike. So when loaded in first or anyother gear it would just stall. Even though i had about 1/3 tank of gas left in it. i'm just gonna drain the tank, and take out the fuel pickups for cleaning... looking at the parts catalog, the pick up has two prefirated tubes, (i'm think) one goes into the reserve tank and one goes to the main tank. I'm guessing that the tube that goes to the main tank is block at the bottom of the tube, that's why when the fuel level is lower than a certain point, theres no fuel flow. And the digital display, i could see very very faintly (when i press on the lcd) that theres time display on it, one button says "mode", the other says "set" on that thing. i also found out that there is a battery on the back.. i'm first gonna replace the battery and figure out what it does... my hypothsis is that it times the hour ran on the engine, so you would ride the bike continuesly for over X hours? or maybe this guy doesn't know what's blocking his tank, and use that to time how long he can ride before he had to refuel.. i dunno.. i'll post some pictures.
There is no "reserve" tank as such. The fuel valve switches between two intakes filter tubes that take fuel in at different levels. The "main" intake is just higher and therefore starves first.
yeah i just figured it out.. EMbarrassing ... <!-- s --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_redface.gif" alt="" title="Embarassed" /><!-- s --> ... and i dont think there anything blocking the tube either <!-- s --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_redface.gif" alt="" title="Embarassed" /><!-- s -->
yeah pretty much... except that i tried checking it by reving in netural, the rev was steady and i couldn't hear or see the sign of low on gasoline... when i look inside the fuel tank, i saw quite a bit of fuel in left, and i've always thought that there is a seperate reservior for back-up fuel... that means i got about 130km with 1 tank.... which is very bad... =.=''.... although i also idled on purpose a lot with that tank.... and i figured out all the wiring scheme for all the little mods on my bike... i'll post in the mod idea section with some pictures edit: but i really wanna say what they did right now. the digital temp meter, has 4 wires coming out, 2 are for power and 2 for sensor. the power is wired parallel to ignition coil's power supply for cylinder 1 and 4. on the electrical diagram, it would be the bottom coil ( the one that has orange wire ) for item 48... seems to be working fine... i really hope i haven't been running on just two cylinders the whole time =_=''''''''''''''''''''''''... that company that supplies the digital temp meter is called Creative Factory Posh. They have their own temperature sensor. their mod works for a very wide varity of old school sports bikes from the 90s like vfr, tzr, cbr.... and fzr400.. although i dont see fzr250 being listed applicable in their current, 2009, catalog, but the fzr250 and fzr400 uses the same oem thermometer, so this meter should also work for fzr250s. now the thing that actually worries me is the fact that i still dont know what temperature displayed on the mod correspond to which section of the OEM temperature scale.... i.e. 90 degrees C on the display could be the red zone on the oem scale, or it could be right in the middle of white zone, perfect temperature. looking at the electrical diagram, i found where the oem wire to the temperature sensor is chopped off. If i could get my hand on a variable resistance device, I could confirm my uncertainties. By connecting the resistance that would set C.F. posh's temp meter to 90 degree, and then connect this same resistance to the chopped off end of oem temp scale wires, and see where the scale reads..... of course this being said, I'm hoping that the previous guy didn't cut off the power supply wires to the temperature scale. and finally the other mod its called "EL Back light"... its just a clock powered by batteries, and lcd background light drawing power from the bike. I believe this lcd's power wires are connected to the wires that's downstream of the light switch of the motorcycle... its attached to the 6-pin connector that joins items 9, 10, 11 on the electrial diagram... the positive terminal being connected to dark blue wire, so power drawn from item 11. i think item 11 are the background lights for the dashboard, and that makes alot of sense <!-- s:-? --><img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_Eyecrazy.gif" alt=":-?" title="Eye Crazy" /><!-- s:-? -->
The standard temperature sensor has these values According to the manual - The sensor should measure at - 50c - 154ohms 80c - 47-57ohms 100c - 26-29ohms 120c - 16ohms I would think the red zone would be about 105-110 deg My bike has a temp gauge in degrees and normally runs 82-85deg but gets up to 95 at odd times and I have seen it at 105 on a hot day (35) during the toy run surrounded by 1000's of bikes in the city centre crawl.
