Project Grasshoppers FZR 3LN3

So when you say "set the idle to where it should be" I suppose this means it's open to interpretation a little bit, you just want to drop the revs back to where you think it's idling smoothly enough without struggling or over doing it?

 

I think the "n" turns out is a very good starting point though. My bike was flooding like heck and I thought I had it right but it was like 6 turns out. Putting at 2.5 may not be perfect, but I saw very good improvement.

 

I am now a virgin again: (using Linkins spare fairings...)

 

For anyone wanting to know how to do your fuel tap seals with a litetek kit, it's dead easy. Unbolt from frame, disconnect hoses, undo the 2 screws and pull the tap out. Seals sit underneath. The tap itself was not leaking, it was the hose from the tap to the fuel pump & carbs. Chopped that off a bit, new seals on with some inox as lube, put it all back together and hey presto! No leaks!



We also pulled the airbox and carbs. The airbox boots are actually good, you can squeeze them around and it's extremely easy to get the airbox back on. Definitely ordering some for mine! @Grasshopper did the emulsion tubes and needles already, I did the jet housing seals and float bowl seals.

Lastly, with everything out of the way, we adjusted the clutch properly so the friction point is closer to the handle bar. It's a lot easier to ride and to change gears now.

 

Sammy the flying grasshopper was pulled apart today. After adjusting the clutch and replacing the jet housing seals and float bowl gaskets, I went for a quick ride up the street and back. At which point the bike wouldn't hold an idle, became noisy, and died. Could not start it again.

Prior to that, returning from Sydney, the bike felt like it was bogging down and I had to go down to third gear to sustain 100KM/h. It then came good and we got home fine. Thought it was the 95 fuel at the time. After that we went on a short ride on the backroads in the following days, and the bike simply did not feel right... as if it was running on 3 cylinders only.

I tried to start it yesterday with a roll start down the driveway, it got going but still wouldn't hold an idle, and died. I checked the exhaust headers and cylinder #3 was stone cold...

So we starting taking it apart.



Our hunch was valve clearances... and I think our hunch was right. All of the valves were borderline, but look at cylinder #3 intake valves... We did notice cyl #3 was not sounding quite right as we rotated the crank.






So as it stands, the fizzer factory is more like the fizzer graveyard. The yellow bike is the only one that we know still runs!



Fizzer shed full of fizzer parts, and a dead fizzer



Spare fizzer engine and fizzer bits on shelves

 

" RIP FIZZER's ".......it was a very sad day.

 

It can only get better from here though

 

I do hope so for your sake, otherwise we may see the biggest "Fizzer Auction" of all time.

 

Watch this space

 

Are you taking anything for your condition Blair

 

Shims have been ordered...

Precision shims quote? $160 AUD, and that's JUST for the shims we need.

What we paid? $80 USD with tracked shipping for a complete Hot Cams shim kit. 3 of each size in 0.5mm increments. It pays to sign up to US forums with trading sections

Granted, precision shims have more sizes available (eg 1.70, 1.72, 1.74, 1.75)