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Help GSF250 Bandit - ELECTRIC BLUES

Discussion in 'Your 250cc Projects' started by bandithat, Feb 14, 2015.

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  1. bandithat

    bandithat Active Member

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    Thermostat opened at around 120°C but oil was warmed quickly, took its time to do so (5mins) but it did it. Still open and closes but very slow.

    Seems like if anything is a bit sticky. Will decide to replace based purely on cost.

    Last of all - water temp/engine temp warning light switch. No result all the way up to 150°C...

    Seems high, but have nothing to compare to or any specs. Off to Google!
     
    bandithat, Feb 19, 2015
    #41
  2. bandithat

    bandithat Active Member

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    So this fixing thing is addictive!! Rebuilding the front caliper because the dust seal was split and prolapsing (for lack of a better term), new seals ordered.

    Most caliper rebuild instructions suggest using compressed air to eject the pistons... couldn't you just pump them out with the lever into a bucket? You will lose all the fluids but you are going to anyway. Anyone tried this?
     
    bandithat, Feb 20, 2015
    #42
  3. Murdo

    Murdo The Good Doctor Staff Member Contributing Member Ride and Events Crew

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    'Prolapsing???' Had the lips hanging out of it? :lolsign:

    Pumping the pistons out with the handlebar lever is sometimes the only way to get stuck pistons out. Go for it.
     
    Murdo, Feb 20, 2015
    #43
  4. bandithat

    bandithat Active Member

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    Yeah cool, thanks Murdo.

    Now waiting on a thermostat, temp sensor, caliper seals, front brake lever, oil filter.

    Finally attacking what I've been dreading - two dents in the front wheel. Each cause a deflection of about 5-6mm. I've been told that Laurie Alderton can fix them (and anything else apparently!). Pricing up one from a wreckers at the same time to check options. Once i work out this tapatalk nonsense I'll get pictures... I swear!
     
    bandithat, Feb 21, 2015
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  5. bandithat

    bandithat Active Member

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    Ok guys, I'm losing here.

    I'm working on the brakes and have read the brake bleeding made easy post (which is awesome).

    I am having an issue however. I've replaces the rubber brake piston seals in the front caliper, and have managed to refill and bleed air out of the system.

    HOWEVER: When I squeeze the lever, I can see the caliper piston and pads move. When I release the lever, the Pad and Piston retreat the same distance. The pads are still a good 4mm off contacting the disc.

    Basically: the sytem needs more fluid (which should be added from the MC during the release stroke of the lever). Instead, the piston is moving back into the caliper.

    Does this description make sense? Any suggestions?
     
    bandithat, Feb 27, 2015
    #45
  6. bandithat

    bandithat Active Member

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    SOLVED! Master cylinder required priming/bleeding. (Big air bubble inside MC piston)

    MESSY, HAVE TOWELS ON HAND!
    Undo top banjo at MC
    Thumb over MC outlet hole
    Squeeze lever
    Air escapes past thumb
    Once fluid is pushing against thumb, hold MC with hole facing up and replace banjo.
     
    • Like Like x 3
    bandithat, Feb 27, 2015
    #46
  7. Phil

    Phil Senior Member Contributing Member

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    Well done mate :thumb_ups:
     
    Phil, Feb 27, 2015
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  8. bandithat

    bandithat Active Member

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    bandithat, Mar 19, 2015
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  9. Joker

    Joker See "about me" for contact details. Contributing Member

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    If you need parts mate my bandit is being broken up in pieces, let me know.

    Glad to hear you're getting further than I did.
     
    Joker, Apr 9, 2015
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  10. bandithat

    bandithat Active Member

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    Appreciated Stu!

    Haven't been on here on a while! Back at uni which is taking up my life (happily at least!).

    Had waited on various parts to get blue slip and now discovered that bike hesitates around 8000 rpm, faster throttle opening means longer hesitation, smooth opening means it'll push through easily.

    Looks like I'm pulling the carbs off!

    From reading it sounds like the main jet may be blocked (I've put in an inline fuel filter to help things along). Other possibilities include a vacuum leak messing with the accelerator pump or something? (Given lagging is at consistent rpm, my money is on jets.)

    Any second opinions!?
     
    bandithat, Apr 9, 2015
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  11. Joker

    Joker See "about me" for contact details. Contributing Member

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    Yeh I'd bet on a fuel problem. If you need something to compare to I could always open up the carbies I have here. I think they're mostly ok, when the bike was running it seemed to go OK through the revs.
     
    Joker, Apr 9, 2015
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  12. KJB

    KJB Member

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    Hi guys , New here but keen on bikes . I bought two bandits together , a pretty one cafe racer that knocks , and ran poor hot and a pranged naked which I started but could not ride, Have transplanted engine , and still have a prob where when hot it wont rev past 1500 and sounds flat as , am getting intermittant spark , . I have performed alot of voltage / ohms tests , the specs I found online suggest that the crank signal sensor should have @ 300/400 ohms resistance , both mine are @400 kohm does anyone there have a book or specs , seems funny to have two duds
    Thanks Guys
     
    KJB, Jun 2, 2015
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  13. Murdo

    Murdo The Good Doctor Staff Member Contributing Member Ride and Events Crew

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    :welcome:
    Playing up when hot definatly sound like electrical. Have you swapped the coils and other electric bits from the frame the engine came from?
     
    Murdo, Jun 3, 2015
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  14. bandithat

    bandithat Active Member

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    Hey KJB, my crank position sensor had only 2 wires coming from it. Can you describe how you were checking the resistance in it, not sure I'm following you? (Sorry it's been a while!)
     
    bandithat, Jun 3, 2015
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  15. kiffsta

    kiffsta Senior Member

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    Are the engines the same, the bandit was released with a 40hp and 45 hp engine, the later had variable valve timing and had a red valve cover, maybe the electrics need to come over with the engine ? Does your have a Throttle Positioning Sensor, I know the 400 bandit did, might be worth look at the TPS ?
     
    Last edited: Jun 3, 2015
    kiffsta, Jun 3, 2015
    #55
  16. KJB

    KJB Member

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    KJB, Jun 3, 2015
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  17. KJB

    KJB Member

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    My two are both basic carbie setups with no variable valve , have had a look at the diagramme previous in the post , I am going to isolate the basic ignition circuit and run a makeshift loom
     
    KJB, Jun 3, 2015
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  18. KJB

    KJB Member

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    Have swapped coils , regulator,cdi . Starts cold fine when hot goes flat , funny bit is it will start running crap as soon as I try to take off . will send pics and updates tonight
     
    KJB, Jun 3, 2015
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  19. bandithat

    bandithat Active Member

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    Hey kjb, just realised that you were referring to both bikes when you were saying that you got two resistance readings for your signal generator! (That makes sense now) If you were reading the wire end of the plug (white connector w/blue/black and brown wires, you are testing the CDI. ( left side of the pic you referred to)

    Checking the signal generator would be applying the multi meter leads to the other end (at the RHS crank case - see blue & red arrows in my pic on page 2or 3 or so of this thread.)

    Ohms would naturally depend on CPS position.

    Are you certain it's a spark issue? I would have thought fuel/vacuum as the cause...
     
    bandithat, Jun 3, 2015
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  20. Joker

    Joker See "about me" for contact details. Contributing Member

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    Yeh check the fuel tap... they're a crap design. May be part of your problem.

    I have some cheap parts left if you need any. Let me know if you find something buggered.
     
    Joker, Jun 3, 2015
    #60
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