Project GSX250 restoration

What's the difficulty with enamel ?
That Dulux 2K clear will go straight over it, but with an epoxy enamel i would try it on a test piece first. make sure the paint has been on the test piece for about a week first or it might fry up

I have been using the Duramax metallic's and solid colour's with 2K clear with no problem's

 

I dont think anyone mentioned putting acrylic clear over enamel did they ?

All metallic car's are clear coated, there are a hell of a lot of clear over base (cob) solid colour's too
Some of the cheaper brand's of 2K clear can have a slight tint of yellow, but you only need 2x coat's of it so you wouldn't notice

My XR is done with cheap 2K clear, 2 litre's of it done in 2 coat's, no sign's of yellowing and it was done 6 years ago

 

If you are going to the trouble of making your temp spray booth to fix the colour coat I would still do the 2K clear....
Dont stress on it yellowing over time... the benefits far outweigh the drawbacks...
You have to wet sand it back now to get the lumps etc down... so as long as you dont break through the colour, just clear it afterwards... using your booth will benefit the clear as well... it will be harder than the enamel, resistant to fuel and look pretty good too.

 

The 2K clear will be petrol resistant, something that most aerosol cans are not.
The clear will yellow in about 20 years of being in the sun every day, so don't worry about it. Modern 2K clears are good for much longer if looked after.

 

You were the first one to mention the Dulux 2K clear in this thread when you posted a link to it on page 1

Get a Clay Bar kit and that'll be all you need to flatten any problem's if you have them.
The clay is so easy to use, just break off a piece, wet it with the spray and slide it across the dot of dirt or the peel, keep wetting it to cut, turn the clay to give it a fresh cutting surface and you'll see it is making the paint mirror flat as you go.
Just need's a very slight pressure on it to work

 

Using a clay bar isnt going to make any difference to new paint... they are used in the detailing industry to remove contaminants from the surface of the paint... yes.. on old paint the use of a clay bar will leave it silky smooth... because it has removed contaminants... it doesnt actually "cut back" the paint. To do that you are best to use 800 grit, then 1500 grit and finish with 2000 grit or 3000 grit wet and dry. Use it wet with dishwashing liquid in the water and change the water and the paper often.
If you are going to clear over the enamel (it is fine to do if you have left the enamel for a few days, regardless of what the numptys at Bunnings may tell you) you will need to flatten off the colour coat... you dont want to be trying to lay clear onto hardened gloss enamel. 800 or 1500 with plenty of soapy water and then wipe off with prepsol and a good wipe with a tack cloth..
All the same steps you should take if spraying in a $100K booth... no different using cans really.. preparation is everything.
http://www.autogeek.net/detailing-clay-bar.html

 

No it will work fine,it does cut back any high's in peel too, i've been using the clay bar's for 20+ year's in my workshop
I can get a peely paint job back to mirror finish in under a day using a claybar, done it plenty of time's.
I still use it at home to flatten off peel when doing smaller job's.

To paint over the colour with clear, just scuff it back with some 600 w@d with plenty of water, any finer and the clear will have nothing to stick to

 

What did you use to clean the surface after sanding?

 

I have only used prepsol once in the 30 year's i've been painting car's and bike's , i swore i'd never use it again and haven't since the early 90's, i had the same problem.
It soften's paint, hence the fry up ^^

 

How long did you let the enamel dry before the clear coat?